Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

861 - 880 of 915 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
557 Posts
My headliner had to go down this weekend, even though your photos were confirming that I was not happy to take on that task.
And as well it helped with motivation...

I just wanted to use the front 2 bolts on the sides for a light bar. And then it complicated because of the plastic that had to come out. That #2 from the front on both sides on my 2015 Pro 4X was a pain! Can't get a grip on it with locking pliers, I had to beat it up from under the headliner and it's oh #@%! now what do I do with 2 bigger holes.

I JB welded the other spinners like #1 on each side, but these holes didn't look pretty. That was Saturday. I was tired of the plastic not letting go and not being able to get the basket off because of more spinning bolts, I was ready to retire, not fun. I went to a body shop today, Monday, and it took them 5 hours to drop the whole headliner, not just the half I was working on. So even though I took out the passenger seat and left all the trim off like mirrors, visors, handless, etc, it still took them 5 hours do their half job. I put all my trim back myself afterwards.

They used a circle with teeth with gaps on the outside to allow for using same M6 size rivnuts (new ones, which they had). They also used something that's "better than JB weld", some Epoxy that should help with water tightness around the metal on metal.
I was going to address the back spinners in a distant future, but the way they were doing it made sense to just do them all.

From the factory I had about 50% of the 25 bolts spin without going in or out.

Some cars use hex shaped rivnuts? And those won't spin.
 

·
TNX Veteran
Joined
·
3,900 Posts
Discussion Starter #862
Tried taking advantage of this time to replace my lower control arm bushings. They were worn on both sides and moving pretty badly. I started with Delrin Bushings from PRG because I have a greasable ball joint. I was trying not to be "wasteful" by replacing the whole LCA when it is not needed. Well little did I know that the bushings in our LCAs are essentially "permanent". Vulcanized rubber that is basically adhered to the LCA. I spent far too long trying to burn, cut, & press those out. Not worth it.

So then I got control arms from Rockauto. This is what I should have done all along. Open those up and slide one into the spindle. I'm trying really hard but there is something off about them.... I can't seem to fit them into the LCA mounts. Then I realized that I bought Xterra lower control arms instead of Titan ones.

So now I have $160 bushings and $225 control arms that I can't use. I had to drop another $275 to get the Titan arms. $660 and way too many stupid hours later and I'll finally get it right. Pretty classic for me and this truck ?



Bad picture but you can see how I tried to cut two lines and peel the rubber part out with a screwdriver



Too short:

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
605 Posts
Man that is tough...

With that said yours may be my fave truck on the site...is there a story behind the green and orange? The combo looks killer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,850 Posts
Eh..... JB weld, duct tape and rattle can black... FIXED!!! ;)
 

·
TNX Veteran
Joined
·
3,900 Posts
Discussion Starter #867
Went to a friend's place and was able to get this welded. It was a little weird cus I brought all of my own tools, jack, jack stand, etc (RIP COVID-19). I took the wheel & coilover off, he jumped in with the welder, and I slapped everything back on.

Just welded over the top of the crack. I was afraid to have him weld underneath because I was worried the coilover wouldn't sit right under the coil bucket. Hopefully this is sufficient. Also, somehow I took everything off, had it welded, and put back on in about 1 hour. If you know me, you know that is a damn miracle! This is normally a 6 hour operation!

[IMG]

[IMG]


Also as an added bonus... he helped stiffen up my bike rack so that it stopped having so much forward/backwards sway. Wahoo!

[IMG]

[IMG]
 

·
TNX Veteran
Joined
·
3,900 Posts
Discussion Starter #868 (Edited)
Also, just want to say that the new LCA's tightened up steering by like 3x. Those bushings were real bad. The truck feels MUCH better now. I did an eyeball alignment for the time being until stuff is a little less crazy. I think it is close enough. I don't see any point to trying to save your LCA unless you have a custom skid plate or limit straps or something. New LCA means new bushings AND ball joints.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
I went through the LCA whoas when I was prepping for Moab. Got the Detroit Axle LCA's and my coilovers wouldn't fit. So I bought all new bushings and BJ's for the old set and the shop was like, yea that's going to be a huge paint in the arse. I said well you have a press, soooooo press them out lol. Needless to say, I have a set of new BJ's and bushings for when these go bad haha!

My issue with Detroit Axle LCA's... I'm pretty sure this is due to the fact that I have the Tundra/Titan Coilovers and not a standard coilover but yea def was not a fun day
 

·
TNX Veteran
Joined
·
3,900 Posts
Discussion Starter #871
Raised the shackles up another hole. They are now on the highest hole. Looks like this 4" lift +500lb Alcans settled pretty far. When I first installed them, shackles were on lowest hole and I had nearly 2" of rake. I think it measured out to about 4.25" of lift. Now the shackles are on highest hole (1" longer) and I sit nearly level. Of course, it is kind of hard to tell with cut fenders but it still feels like they settled at least 1.5".

Is this a characteristic of all leaf springs? I only got these a few years/about 25k miles ago, so I'm kinda surprised TBH.

Honestly I can't tell a difference lol but here are the 2 pics with shackle at middle hole and then at top hole:



AND now for the truck right after leaf spring install. I want this rake back!

 

·
Registered
2005 Nissan Xterra OR
Joined
·
845 Posts
I put a PRG/Deaver 2 leaf AAL on the truck in the summer of 2010 I believe. With this order I also got stock shackles to replace my Calmini aftermarket ones because I thought the rake would be too much. After install, the rake was just where I wanted and sold the stock shackles on here. Almost ten years later and after many camp trips I can't tell it's flattened much, so your experience does seem odd. But I am curious what those with a similar setups have to contribute.

Since I now tow a cargo trailer for trips and my family has grown, I needed to switch out the suspension again. Went with 600# over Alcans with adjustable shackles. They should be here next week.

Hopefully your experience is the outlier; I was hoping this setup would last many years.


Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

·
NewX’er 4life
Joined
·
2,522 Posts
If it makes you feel any better, mine also settled to the point where I am also going up to the top notch when the weather gets a bit warmer.

I started off like this unloaded:


Now I am at about 1" of rake maybe 1.5" and even when loaded, I would prefer 1" of rake minimum when loaded. At the top notch it will be fine, but I was hoping to get that on the lowest shackle notch, sigh.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
I'm another who likes the rake, I don't have Alcans, but my OME Dakar springs settled a bit more than I would have liked, so I'll be adding shackles.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
I have the same issue. I'd rather just get rid of the dam leaf pack all together if someone made a kit for it. $800+ and then a year or to later, they have to be either replaced, redone or get another leaf added
 

·
TNX Veteran
Joined
·
3,900 Posts
Discussion Starter #876
I have the same issue. I'd rather just get rid of the dam leaf pack all together if someone made a kit for it. $800+ and then a year or to later, they have to be either replaced, redone or get another leaf added
Glad to know it is not just me! Haha I was thinking the same thing though. Spent a while combing forums for coilspring conversion. If someone made a kit that combined all the parts I would do it but I feel I am not competent enough to hodge-podge stuff together.

The leaves are a pain in the ass to change out. Always have a hard time getting them to line up enough to get them into the shackle & front mount. The idea of a $120 pair of coilsprings that I can swap out with way more simplicity is super appealing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,975 Posts
I wish I had a local spring shop. I need my alcan's rearched. They are showing some wear and sagging
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Good to see all these leaf options and rake. I'm also on the PRG/Deaver 2 leaf AAL plus PRG adjustable shackles, at 3" lift now. Question is, with heavier springs, would you lose flex on trails? I'm about to venture to pulling a small travel trailer but still deciding on heavier leafs or air bags. I just don't want to lose offroad traction with less flex. Thoughts?
 

·
TNX Veteran
Joined
·
3,900 Posts
Discussion Starter #880
Good to see all these leaf options and rake. I'm also on the PRG/Deaver 2 leaf AAL plus PRG adjustable shackles, at 3" lift now. Question is, with heavier springs, would you lose flex on trails? I'm about to venture to pulling a small travel trailer but still deciding on heavier leafs or air bags. I just don't want to lose offroad traction with less flex. Thoughts?
I don't think so. With my +500lbs springs I have no problem compressing them all the way. My bump stops are what limit that last 1/2" of shock travel which is how it should be anyway. This has always been the case even when my leaves were new.
 
861 - 880 of 915 Posts
Top