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TNX Veteran
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Discussion Starter #822
Poor welds from the factory?
From talking to others, it sounds like this is a common failure spot from these headers. So I'm guessing that is the case. That means yours are next....
 

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NewX’er 4life
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From talking to others, it sounds like this is a common failure spot from these headers. So I'm guessing that is the case. That means yours are next....
Haha I bet at some point it may happen. My faith in the factory quality is tainted already. Good thing is there is no more emission testing here so if it happens some stainless steel headers will be the replacement and not factory parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #825
Thats exactly what happened to my pass side about 18 months ago. Replaced with DT headers and B pipe deletes. Still haven’t put the fender liners back on. One of my winter projects.
Nice. This was the cheapest option. I didn't feel like jumping into the other side...

I suppose I should post some finished pics. Cleared the SES light and it is as good as new!

 

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Discussion Starter #826
Replaced my engine skid bolts. The nut sheered off in the front crossmember for one of them. WIthout a welder, gonna be a tough fix. Will have to tap the hole and use a bigger bolt.

The other 3/4 were intact but all bent. I guess this is what happens when you slap that skid plate on stuff all day. I DID replace them with socket-cap screws with allen heads. The hex bolt heads would scrape against stuff and it was hard to get a ratchet on them. This should solve that problem.


 

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Discussion Starter #829
I've always liked the idea of those but I also felt like I would just lose them, and I can't imagine paying $40 to outfit one skid plate with the correct washers. The regular bolts hold for up 98% of the time
 

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NewX’er 4life
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I've always liked the idea of those but I also felt like I would just lose them, and I can't imagine paying $40 to outfit one skid plate with the correct washers. The regular bolts hold for up 98% of the time
Ya, that's why I linked the amazon ones cause those are way overpriced. I've only sheared two bolts in 5 years, but I'm not doing trails where I just scrape the whole time, some people are into that.
 

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Discussion Starter #832
Quick question, how did you know the exhaust manifold broke? Was there an exhaust leak sound or something like a vibration sound or did it throw a code?

I'd have to be deaf to miss it at 2:00 in the video. If that was the case, I guess I would have noticed the SES light.
 

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Discussion Starter #834
Finally working on some roof lighting today after getting the mount 6 months ago. Took me forever to decide on lights.

Decided on two Auxbeam spot lights for the center, and two other spot/flood combo lights for the edges. I'll point the latter outwards a bit and they also have the "side shooters". Hopefully this gives me a pretty good 180 degree view in front of my truck.

I didn't want to do a lightbar cus I hate the look. The big round lights were too big. So I'm hoping the low-pro light cage and shorter lights will be the perfect solution.



 

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Finally working on some roof lighting today after getting the mount 6 months ago. Took me forever to decide on lights.


I think they would look better on the X rather than the Z. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #836
I think they would look better on the X rather than the Z. ;)
Agreed... here's the unwired mockup. I still haven't messed with the spacing/angle or anything.

 

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Discussion Starter #837
^^^ BTW - getting those lights to be a thing is a hell I don't wish on anyone.....

The stupid nutserts for the air dam were spinning. And for some reason, that tiny lightweight plastic has FOUR of them. I had to pull down the front of the headliner and cut holes in the roof crossmember support to get to the nutserts so that I could ATTEMPT to hold onto them while unscrewing from the top. Spoiler alert: That doesn't work very well either. Even with the tightest I could clamp the vice grips, I barely got the first nutsert loose. The second one I tried clamping/unscrewing for about 45 min but I couldn't get it to break, even with penetrating oil.​
So naturally, I said "F it" and grinded the bolt heads off. Honestly I wish I would have done this sooner. There is no reason this stupid air damn needs 4 bolts to hold it in place. I'll just pop the plastic push-fasteners in at the top, and then doubleside tape at the bottom. Sealed up the holes with some goop. I'm never dealing with those nutserts again and I regret cutting the holes into the underside.​
Yes, the airdam now has grinder marks on it. But the Xterra is tall and I think they are gonna be covered up by the lights I'm putting on. If for some reason they are a massive blight, I can just get another air damn and be done with it.​
 

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Discussion Starter #839
Getting closer.... spent far too long running wiring. But I got it all plugged in and working. I'm really happy I could tap another wire (the one running to my power mirror) so that I could have the switch light on when the car is on! As long as I can put the A-pillar trim pieces back one without destroying any wires I should be good to go.



Ignition "On" - switches match dash:



Roof lights "On":

 

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Discussion Starter #840
Welp this whole process took WAY longer than I was expecting. Like hours and hours for nights in a row. Probably spent close to 30 hours total between taking off rivnuts, making wiring harness, routing wires, sealing, etc. Is it just me or does everyone else work like this? lol

At least it turned out well I think. Looks clean in the end.



Ran wires through 2 holes in the air damn filled with a plastic grommet that I cut a small pie-shaped piece out of:




Did similar with the OEM boob-light wire route with a lot of goop-sealant over it:






Tons of wires down A-pillar - looking back on it, not sure why I didn't do these on the B side. Would have been less wiring since that's where the battery is. DOH!




My only gripe so far is that this one AuxBeam light internal nut was spinning. I couldn't get it to grab. So I had to use JB weld to hold it into place......

 
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