[Clownpocket]

Thanks I ordered a set of depinners.

The pins are held in place by little tabs. There are tools available that look like small metal straws. The straw goes over the end of the pin and depresses the tab so the pin can be pulled out from the wire connected side. Then the pin is simply inserted to a different pinhole.

What size depinner tube do I need? A 2mm is the smallest this set comes with and is too big for the block hole. Any idea where I can find one?

 

[GreyDuck]

We have them here at work...I'll do some checking to see where we ordered them from.

 

[bringass]

Hi!

Do yo know if the pictures of this tread are available in other host or something? Is hardto follow instructions without photos.

 

[Gen2Genx]

I just performed this upgrade on my 2012 Xterra S using newly purchased Non-illuminated steering wheel controls from eBay and a Metra Axxess ASWC-1. It did not require soldering of resistors.
I started with ClearStars instructions but then had some difficulty because, as you know, the pins positions in the steering wheel harness do NOT match to the pin positions in the steering column harness. So I had to buy a Multi-Meter and trace the leads to find out which of the pins matched which harness position. Special thanks for ClearStar for the great original instructions and inspiration, as well as everyone else who has tried this and posted their variations and results. I never would have had the confidence to go through this without all of you!!!

If you would like to do perform this upgrade on a 2012 Xterra S model, here is what I did:

PARTS LIST :

• Steering Wheel Controls - New Steering Wheel Control Switch Fits 2005-12 Nissan Frontier Xterra Pathfinder | eBay
• Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Extra roll of 22Gauge wire (red and green colors) - I used these to extend the cable length to reach the stereo compartment
• STEREO = Sony XAV-AX100 (or any XAV-AXxxx model)

STEERING WHEEL HARNESS
1. Follow steps 1 - 6 of CearStar's instructions in post #1.
2. Install the new switch panels and torque screws and plug it in once the plug has been pinned correctly and put back together.
3. Carefully take the RED wire from the OLD steering wheel controls. (I detached my OLD cruise controls, cut the wire where it connected to the little box. This gave me about 6 inches and the pin connection.

STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
1. Cut the Green wire away from the car leaving about 2 inches of slack to work with. (No need to cut the existing red.). Using your extra 22 gauge wire, add about 8 - 12 inches to the existing green wire.
2. Take the RED wire with the pin attached and using your extra 22 gauge wire, add about 8 inches of wire length.
3. Add these 2 wire pins to the Steering column harness.
4 Here is a chart of where the wires match up to in the 2 harnesses:

METRA AXXESS INSTALL & PROGRAMMING
1. Download the instructions from the Metra Axxess Website
2. Install the black wire to ground & and the red wire to Accessory 12v power
3. Connect the Gray/Red wire of the ASWC -1 to the NEW RED wire of the steering column harness
4. Connect the White/Green wire of the ASWC -1 to the NEW GREEN wire of the steering column harness
5. Program the Axxess for your stereo. In my case I have a Sony XAV-AX100. After a call to Metra support I had to program the Axxess to Stereo type 22(Axxera stereo). Then on my stereo use the custom mapping for steering wheel controls to set them up. Everything works great now!

 

[Gen2Genx]

I've discovered something interesting after going through the above process. When I turn on my headlights, the steering controls stop working, but when I turn them off everything is fine. I am going to get back at it this weekend and figure this out. My assumption here is that whatever signal is sent to the stereo to tell it to dim the screen because the headlights are on is interfering. So, I my best guess at the moment is that I have either the 12v accessory power or the ground from the Axxess unit hooked up to the wrong wire(s) on the stereo harness.

I just performed this upgrade on my 2012 Xterra S using newly purchased Non-illuminated steering wheel controls from eBay and a Metra Axxess ASWC-1. It did not require soldering of resistors.
I started with ClearStars instructions but then had some difficulty because, as you know, the pins positions in the steering wheel harness do NOT match to the pin positions in the steering column harness. So I had to buy a Multi-Meter and trace the leads to find out which of the pins matched which harness position. Special thanks for ClearStar for the great original instructions and inspiration, as well as everyone else who has tried this and posted their variations and results. I never would have had the confidence to go through this without all of you!!!

If you would like to do perform this upgrade on a 2012 Xterra S model, here is what I did:

PARTS LIST :

• Steering Wheel Controls - New Steering Wheel Control Switch Fits 2005-12 Nissan Frontier Xterra Pathfinder | eBay
• Metra Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Extra roll of 22Gauge wire (red and green colors) - I used these to extend the cable length to reach the stereo compartment
• STEREO = Sony XAV-AX100 (or any XAV-AXxxx model)

STEERING WHEEL HARNESS
1. Follow steps 1 - 6 of CearStar's instructions in post #1.
2. Install the new switch panels and torque screws and plug it in once the plug has been pinned correctly and put back together.
3. Carefully take the RED wire from the OLD steering wheel controls. (I detached my OLD cruise controls, cut the wire where it connected to the little box. This gave me about 6 inches and the pin connection.

STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
1. Cut the Green wire away from the car leaving about 2 inches of slack to work with. (No need to cut the existing red.). Using your extra 22 gauge wire, add about 8 - 12 inches to the existing green wire.
2. Take the RED wire with the pin attached and using your extra 22 gauge wire, add about 8 inches of wire length.
3. Add these 2 wire pins to the Steering column harness.
4 Here is a chart of where the wires match up to in the 2 harnesses:

View attachment 138947

METRA AXXESS INSTALL & PROGRAMMING
1. Download the instructions from the Metra Axxess Website
2. Install the black wire to ground & and the red wire to Accessory 12v power
3. Connect the Gray/Red wire of the ASWC -1 to the NEW RED wire of the steering column harness
4. Connect the White/Green wire of the ASWC -1 to the NEW GREEN wire of the steering column harness
5. Program the Axxess for your stereo. In my case I have a Sony XAV-AX100. After a call to Metra support I had to program the Axxess to Stereo type 22(Axxera stereo). Then on my stereo use the custom mapping for steering wheel controls to set them up. Everything works great now!

View attachment 138941 View attachment 138942

View attachment 138970

 

[MG23A]

OK, really basic question, but after an hour of searching I am stumped. I have the lower panel removed. Where is the steering wheel plug pictured below located? How do I get at it? I have a '11 S model.

.

 

[Gen2Genx]

That is located on the underside of steering wheel column. You have to unscrew the 3 screws underneath the plastic cover, then take it off. Underneath, you will find what's in this photo.

OK, really basic question, but after an hour of searching I am stumped. I have the lower panel removed. Where is the steering wheel plug pictured below located? How do I get at it? I have a '11 S model.

. View attachment 139151

 

[chiefbeats]

I've discovered something interesting after going through the above process. When I turn on my headlights, the steering controls stop working, but when I turn them off everything is fine. I am going to get back at it this weekend and figure this out. My assumption here is that whatever signal is sent to the stereo to tell it to dim the screen because the headlights are on is interfering. So, I my best guess at the moment is that I have either the 12v accessory power or the ground from the Axxess unit hooked up to the wrong wire(s) on the stereo harness.

We’re you able to resolve this? I’m having the same issue except my steering wheel controls go directly to the radio instead of using an ASWC-1. Could it be the difference between using a dimmer bs illumination wire on the radio harness?

 

[Gen2Genx]

We’re you able to resolve this? I’m having the same issue except my steering wheel controls go directly to the radio instead of using an ASWC-1. Could it be the difference between using a dimmer bs illumination wire on the radio harness?

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get back around to this. I really want to figure it out and fix it, but honestly, I have just been living with it. The only option I have left is to switch pin slots on the harness. I tried remapping the power wire on the ASWC-1 to another wire on the stereo but that didn't work at all, so I am quite sure it has something to do with illumination dimming signal. If changing the pin slot doesn't resolve it I think I'll have to find an electrician.

 

[chiefbeats]

Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get back around to this. I really want to figure it out and fix it, but honestly, I have just been living with it. The only option I have left is to switch pin slots on the harness. I tried remapping the power wire on the ASWC-1 to another wire on the stereo but that didn't work at all, so I am quite sure it has something to do with illumination dimming signal. If changing the pin slot doesn't resolve it I think I'll have to find an electrician.

I guess what's stumping me is why are we repining a "genuine" Nissan part anyway? To my knowledge, I ordered the steering wheel controls because they are compatible with a 2012 Xterra, so why would I need to change the original configuration?!? Furthermore, for the NEW GREEN wire, I pulled out the factory green wire from the steering column and don't know what it's original function was/if it's needed. It seems perhaps repining, and adding new wires, to the empty slots would have been a better option (non-illuminated?). There's only two wires I'm concerned about anyway for audio controls. For my setup, one wire controls the ups/answer, the other controls the downs/hangup. They communicate with the radio flawlessly until the lights turn on. It seems there's a signal getting crossed with the repinning.

 

[Gen2Genx]

I guess what's stumping me is why are we repining a "genuine" Nissan part anyway? To my knowledge, I ordered the steering wheel controls because they are compatible with a 2012 Xterra, so why would I need to change the original configuration?!? Furthermore, for the NEW GREEN wire, I pulled out the factory green wire from the steering column and don't know what it's original function was/if it's needed. It seems perhaps repining, and adding new wires, to the empty slots would have been a better option (non-illuminated?). There's only two wires I'm concerned about anyway for audio controls. For my setup, one wire controls the ups/answer, the other controls the downs/hangup. They communicate with the radio flawlessly until the lights turn on. It seems there's a signal getting crossed with the repinning.

I felt the same way when I started this and tried it as a plug-n-play part. It was a total no-go and didn't work.This whole process took me like a week of to figure out and I had to buy a multi-meter to trace the top harness pins to the bottom ones (not easy and would have saved me a bunch of time if I did that 1st).

According to my photos and diagram above, the only option I have left to try is to switch the "NEW" pins to the only other 2 available slots. I might try this over the weekend if I have time.

 

[chiefbeats]

I felt the same way when I started this and tried it as a plug-n-play part. It was a total no-go and didn't work. This whole process took me like a week of to figure out and I had to buy a multi-meter to trace the top harness pins to the bottom ones (not easy and would have saved me a bunch of time if I did that 1st).

According to my photos and diagram above, the only option I have left to try is to switch the "NEW" pins to the only other 2 available slots. I might try this over the weekend if I have time.

I hear you, but this doesn't pass the logic test to me. I've been thinking a lot about this the last couple of days and would like to brainstorm with you and anyone else over this, if you don't mind. Here are my thoughts.

Assumptions

1. This is an idea proposal...I have yet to try this, but plan to soon. Looking for feedback.
2. this idea was a direct result of having steering wheel audio controls disabled whenever parking or headlights were turned on (as a result of following this thread's original instructions)
3. this idea is not a knock on any previous instructions or ideas
4. the cruise control and audio control circuits need a source of power, which is one of the wires, and the other wires are for signal out
5. the factory pin and wire layout is correct as is (based on not being able to find any wiring schematics and how steering wheel control terminal was wired upon arrival)
6. the corresponding pin numbers (1-8), and as-determined arrangement, from the steering terminal to the column terminal are correct as stated here by @Gen2Genx and @clearstar

Explanation (refer to picture below)
For the steering wheel terminal (behind airbag), the pin layout will remain the same. When considering the cruise control circuit, for example, one of the wires, likely red, is the source of power while the black wire is the signal to the vehicle. The same should apply to the audio controls. Getting power to the audio controls can happen in one of two ways:

1. We can jumper power from the cruise control circuit (red?) to the audio control circuit (brown?) within the steering wheel.
2. Possibly add a pin and power wire on the steering column terminal corresponding to the power input wire on the audio control circuit (column pin 5/steering terminal 5 - brown). I'm assuming this is the brown wire considering the blue and white wires are for audio controls. This added "New wire" for power would then come from the 12V/ACC power wire for the radio or any other 12V/ACC power source contained in nearby wiring.

Once power is established, the column terminal pins 2 & 6 need to be pinned and wired. These correspond with pins 2 & 6 in the audio controls terminal. These added "new wires" are then connected to any steering wheel control interface or directly to the steering wheel control wires of the radio. In my case, no interface was needed. I simply wired each audio control wire to each of the radio steering control wires (one for one). One wire controls the volume up/next track/answer functions, and the other while handles the volume down/previous track/hang-up functions. You will need to possibly swap the wires to figure out which ones work together. This will also coincide with programming the steering wheel controls within the radio or interface.

Diagram. Refer to New Layout at lower right of picture:

The upper left shows how the wiring in the steering control harness plugs into the pins behind the steering wheel and how those pins correspond with the pins/wires in the column terminal for original reference. These should be the factory layout for the 2012 Xterra. I don;t know how many other models or years have this same layout.

 

[chiefbeats]

@Gen2Genx , I was able to finally experiment with this and can confirm I was on the right track but was able to use a simpler way. Initially, I tried using the red wire from pin 8 above, but it ended up being the black wire from pin 7 that supplied power. Furthermore, I intended to restore the factory configuration which led me to re-installing the green wire (pin 6) on the column terminal. I thought I would give it a shot for supplying power to the brown wire, so I connected the brown wire to pin 1 of the steering terminal and everything worked correctly, even with the lights on! Here are the new instructions and diagram. I hope this works for you as well!

• The corresponding pin numbers from the steering wheel terminal to the steering column are correct.
• This layout is specific for NON-ILLUMINATED controls.
• This layout specifically provides steering wheel audio control without the problem of losing controls when the headlights are turned on.
• This worked for a 2012 Nissan Xterra X Model. Was not confirmed with any other trims or models.
• This is simply a suggestion. I am not responsible for any damage as a result of following this or any previous guides. Your factory wiring may not match this layout, so ensure you have the same wiring below (steering column terminal) before proceeding.

Three easy steps gets you proper wiring for connection to a steering control interface (like ASWC-1 or similar), or directly to your radio's steering control wires.

Step 1: On the terminal connector for the audio/cruise controls, move the brown wire from pin 5 to pin 1 as illustrated below.
Step 2: On the gray steering column terminal, add a new pin & wire to pin 6. The old cruise control pin & wire can be used - this will connect to steering controls interface (like ASWC-1 or similar) or directly to your radio's steering control wires. This pin is associated with the blue wire on the steering controls terminal.
Step 3: On the gray steering column terminal, add a new pin & wire to pin 2. The old cruise control pin & wire can be used - this will connect to steering controls interface (like ASWC-1 or similar) or directly to your radio's steering control wires. This pin is associated with the white wire on the steering control terminal.

• As long as you received the harness wired as below, the brown wire is all that needs to be moved. If you've already followed the previous guides, just make sure the entire pinout matches the diagram below as you likely already moved a few other wires previously, like I did.
• The blue and white wires carry the control signals to the control interface/radio. One wire carries the volume up/answer/next track signals. The other wire carries the volume down/previous track/hang up signals. You may have to reverse these wires at the control interface/radio to get proper operation. If you find yourself needing to swap wires, only swap them where they connect to the interface's/radio's wires. Do not re-pin them at the steering column.

 

[Gen2Genx]

Furthermore, I intended to restore the factory configuration which led me to re-installing the green wire (pin 6) on the column terminal. I thought I would give it a shot for supplying power to the brown wire, so I connected the brown wire to pin 1

@Gen2Genx , I was able to finally experiment with this and can confirm I was on the right track but was able to use a simpler way. Initially, I tried using the red wire from pin 8 above, but it ended up being the black wire from pin 7 that supplied power. Furthermore, I intended to restore the factory configuration which led me to re-installing the green wire (pin 6) on the column terminal. I thought I would give it a shot for supplying power to the brown wire, so I connected the brown wire to pin 1 of the steering terminal and everything worked correctly, even with the lights on! Here are the new instructions and diagram. I hope this works for you as well!

• The corresponding pin numbers from the steering wheel terminal to the steering column are correct.
• This layout is specific for NON-ILLUMINATED controls.
• This layout specifically provides steering wheel audio control without the problem of losing controls when the headlights are turned on.
• This worked for a 2012 Nissan Xterra X Model. Was not confirmed with any other trims or models.
• This is simply a suggestion. I am not responsible for any damage as a result of following this or any previous guides. Your factory wiring may not match this layout, so ensure you have the same wiring below (steering column terminal) before proceeding.

Three easy steps gets you proper wiring for connection to a steering control interface (like ASWC-1 or similar), or directly to your radio's steering control wires.

Step 1: On the terminal connector for the audio/cruise controls, move the brown wire from pin 5 to pin 1 as illustrated below.
Step 2: On the gray steering column terminal, add a new pin & wire to pin 6. The old cruise control pin & wire can be used - this will connect to steering controls interface (like ASWC-1 or similar) or directly to your radio's steering control wires. This pin is associated with the blue wire on the steering controls terminal.
Step 3: On the gray steering column terminal, add a new pin & wire to pin 2. The old cruise control pin & wire can be used - this will connect to steering controls interface (like ASWC-1 or similar) or directly to your radio's steering control wires. This pin is associated with the white wire on the steering control terminal.

• As long as you received the harness wired as below, the brown wire is all that needs to be moved. If you've already followed the previous guides, just make sure the entire pinout matches the diagram below as you likely already moved a few other wires previously, like I did.
• The blue and white wires carry the control signals to the control interface/radio. One wire carries the volume up/answer/next track signals. The other wire carries the volume down/previous track/hang up signals. You may have to reverse these wires at the control interface/radio to get proper operation. If you find yourself needing to swap wires, only swap them where they connect to the interface's/radio's wires. Do not re-pin them at the steering column.

View attachment 141777

Well hot damn! Great work! I'm gonna do this.

 

[Gen2Genx]

@Gen2Genx , I was able to finally experiment with this and can confirm I was on the right track but was able to use a simpler way. Initially, I tried using the red wire from pin 8 above, but it ended up being the black wire from pin 7 that supplied power. Furthermore, I intended to restore the factory configuration which led me to re-installing the green wire (pin 6) on the column terminal. I thought I would give it a shot for supplying power to the brown wire, so I connected the brown wire to pin 1 of the steering terminal and everything worked correctly, even with the lights on! Here are the new instructions and diagram. I hope this works for you as well!

• The corresponding pin numbers from the steering wheel terminal to the steering column are correct.
• This layout is specific for NON-ILLUMINATED controls.
• This layout specifically provides steering wheel audio control without the problem of losing controls when the headlights are turned on.
• This worked for a 2012 Nissan Xterra X Model. Was not confirmed with any other trims or models.
• This is simply a suggestion. I am not responsible for any damage as a result of following this or any previous guides. Your factory wiring may not match this layout, so ensure you have the same wiring below (steering column terminal) before proceeding.

Three easy steps gets you proper wiring for connection to a steering control interface (like ASWC-1 or similar), or directly to your radio's steering control wires.

Step 1: On the terminal connector for the audio/cruise controls, move the brown wire from pin 5 to pin 1 as illustrated below.
Step 2: On the gray steering column terminal, add a new pin & wire to pin 6. The old cruise control pin & wire can be used - this will connect to steering controls interface (like ASWC-1 or similar) or directly to your radio's steering control wires. This pin is associated with the blue wire on the steering controls terminal.
Step 3: On the gray steering column terminal, add a new pin & wire to pin 2. The old cruise control pin & wire can be used - this will connect to steering controls interface (like ASWC-1 or similar) or directly to your radio's steering control wires. This pin is associated with the white wire on the steering control terminal.

• As long as you received the harness wired as below, the brown wire is all that needs to be moved. If you've already followed the previous guides, just make sure the entire pinout matches the diagram below as you likely already moved a few other wires previously, like I did.
• The blue and white wires carry the control signals to the control interface/radio. One wire carries the volume up/answer/next track signals. The other wire carries the volume down/previous track/hang up signals. You may have to reverse these wires at the control interface/radio to get proper operation. If you find yourself needing to swap wires, only swap them where they connect to the interface's/radio's wires. Do not re-pin them at the steering column.

View attachment 141777

@chiefbeats , well it wasn't so straight forward for me. However, you got me 90% of the way there!!
In the end I had to:

• Go to an auto parts store to find a pin head for the original green wire to go back into the harness (not so easy, I was only able to find a larger one and I had to cut it down and reshape to make it fit).
• Follow your wiring (reverting mine). This still left me with no controls when lights were on.
• Finally, splicing together the black power wire from pin 7 and the green wire in pin 1. After I did this, BAM, I have working steering controls whether the lights are on or off. Also, cruise controls still work properly. Everything fully tested and I'm a happy man now feeling accomplished.

Thanks for the brainstorming!

 

[chiefbeats]

Awesome! Glad to hear you got it working!

 

[hsohal7]

OK, really basic question, but after an hour of searching I am stumped. I have the lower panel removed. Where is the steering wheel plug pictured below located? How do I get at it? I have a '11 S model.

. View attachment 139151

It's below the steering adjustment switch/pull thing!

 

[Sav]

i used the axxess unit. it worked great.
unfortunately, I don't know how/if your wiring will be different. It was a royal pain for me to trace out the pins until i figured out that 1 spot in each harness was dead.

Hi @Deltaphi216 could you share pics of the ASWC connections to the radio harness? Only the volume up and skip up currently work on my steering wheel.

 

[Dbot]

So If I understand the string of events, chiefbeats simply connected the brown wire (harness position 1) with the black wire (harness position 7) with a jumper, right there with the wires on the switches, whereas, Gen2Genx took a different approach jumping essentially the same wires (Black position 7 and green position 1) on the plug under the steering column when he reverted his wiring?

I'm with a 2010 S, using the ASWC-1, the same ebay part from the same vendor, with the correct pinout (brown position 1). I'm Using a Kenwood unit without custom control mapping (so whatever mapped keys you get are what you get).

*At this point, I have not jumped the black power wire to supply power to the brown wire yet. However, I seem to be getting different results than Gen2Genx did before he jumped the black wire. I couldn't get full function with lights on or off. Wires pinned as instructed, I get absolutely no volume switch function and a mix of correct and incorrect functions with the remaining keys. I switch the two SWC wires and re-autoprogam and end up the same half functionality, just moved to other keys. These functions for me, only work with headlights on. No auto programming or usage can occur with headlights off.

I decided against splicing in a jumper for my next test because my results deviated from Gen2Genx and tried something else. I pinned the brown wire to position 4 on the SWC assy. This connects to brown wire to the red wire under the column (column position 4). I could accurately Volume up, track up, answer call (answer call was soft mute but whatevs) but volume down, track down and hang up buttons had no fuction. Swapping swc wires gave same functionality, just assigned to the opposite keys. So both halves of the circuit don't work that way. I find it odd that the red wire seemed to sort of power to audio controls. Perhaps the cruise control side still passively passes current and I was just tapping into the downstream current. IDK.

I suppose I'll revert to the typical circuit (brown position 1) and add the jumper tomorrow. Perhaps that will give just the right amount of voltage and ohms.

Also, did any of you use those alligator clip wires for testing? Just want to rule out those messing with voltage and resistance

 

[PManess1]

editing this because repost
Would also like to add that the Axxess adapter does not work with Boss stereos. I only have volume up working on my wheel, and Axxess customer service said they’ve noticed a trend there