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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm installing a CKMA12 under my hood this weekend. I was planning on adding a fuse at the battery, instead of running 4+' of unprotected live wire across my engine bay and behind my bumper. The ARB harness has a 40amp fuse in-line, but it is basically at the compressor, not the battery.

Just for the fun of it, I emailed ARB to get their take. Not only did they not recommend a fuse, but noted that it would void the warranty if the harness was altered.

Now, that doesn't really affect my opinion that the harness should be protected at the battery, so I'll probably be adding a fuse anyway. But it's interesting.

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I'd use a fuse block like this with the OE ARB connection bolted on one end and a short pig tail to the other so the factory harness is not modified in any visible way:

 

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I take it you decided to go for the ARB rather than the knockoff one? Looking forward to seeing the install.

Now you have me second guessing my 4' run of wire... maybe I should put my fuse closer to the battery!

As far as "voiding the warranty", I'm >3 years post install so it's moot for me, but that sounds like some corporate CYA b.s. to me. Test out the compressor before modding to verify it's working well before install, then wire it to suit your application and don't look back IMO.
 

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Now you have me second guessing my 4' run of wire... maybe I should put my fuse closer to the battery!
I have a run of 2 gauge wire from the battery. up the left side of the fender... then up the length of the fire wall, then through the firewall to the inside through to my own fuse block. 2 gauge wire required a hydraulic crimper... you have nothing to worry about if you have everything heat shrinked like it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
you have nothing to worry about if you have everything heat shrinked like it should be.
Eh.
While I agree that well placed wiring isn't usually a concern, an unprotected circuit has the potential to turn an otherwise low damage fender bender into a "hot" mess. Why create the risk.

Like yours, my 2ga winch wiring isn't fused, but I have a disconnect at the battery so that it isn't energized when not in use.
 

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Leave the ARB harness intact and add a fuse at the battery. Two fuses in the same circuit are redundant, but won't hurt anything in a circuit with a single compressor as the load.

I use one of these battery terminal fuse blocks in my Jeep to tap power for radios, compressor, etc. The radio circuits have a fuse at the battery and at the radios (the fuse at the battery protects the wiring, the fuses at the radios protect the radios); the auxiliary lights have a single fuse at the fuse block to protect the wiring, and my compressor circuit has a single 40 amp fuse at the fuse block to protect the wiring.

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Eh.
While I agree that well placed wiring isn't usually a concern, an unprotected circuit has the potential to turn an otherwise low damage fender bender into a "hot" mess. Why create the risk.

Like yours, my 2ga winch wiring isn't fused, but I have a disconnect at the battery so that it isn't energized when not in use.
Mine powers my add on fuse block. which runs my switches... which power radio, lights, etc, etc. even my rear locker.. everything EXCEPT the winch and on board air. ( except winch is on a switch for when it needs power with a 500 amp big A$$ relay, which the switch and relay are run through the fuse bloc... and compressor has a fuse in it's line to the battery). Ultimately..... I think OP is making it harder than it needs to be... Much like people on this forum who put 3 amp circuits on a relay.... more / extra wiring for no use... as my old computer programming teacher used to say "KISS" ... Keep-it-simple-stupid.... 99% of auto switches now are rated for 20 amps.
 
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