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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello Everyone, I've been searching around the forum and it doesnt look like anyone has experienced the issues Im having. So our AC seems to work great when we initially get in the car. However, within about 20-30 minutes of driving it starts blowing warm air. The fan works just fine, cycles through all the speed settings, AC light is on, but it almost seems like the AC stops working and the Vent kicks in. We can hear everything working just fine but the car stops producing cold air. And of course, this always seems to happen to us when it is 90+ degrees out. I took it to a local shop and they tested the pressure, made sure the AC was charged and everything checked out just fine. They even held on to it for an extra day and ran it all day at their shop (idling) and the AC worked great! the car was an ice box. However, put it under some driving stress and within 20-30 minutes.. HOT AIR!:angry5:! I'm stumped... Has anyone experienced anything similar? Were you able to fix it? What was the cause? Any guidance would be great! Thanks in Advance guys.
 

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Hello Everyone, I've been searching around the forum and it doesnt look like anyone has experienced the issues Im having. So our AC seems to work great when we initially get in the car. However, within about 20-30 minutes after driving it starts blowing warm air. The fan works just fin, cycles through all the speed settings, AC light is on, but it almost seems like the AC stops working and the Vent kicks in. We can hear everything working just fine but the car stops producing cold air. And of course, this always seems to happen to us when it is 90+ degrees out. I took it to a local shop and they tested the pressure, made sure the AC was charged and everything checked out just fine. They even held on to it for an extra day and ran it all day at their shop (idling) and the AC worked great! the car was an ice box. However, put it under some driving stress and within 20-30 minutes.. HOT AIR!:angry5:! I'm stumped... Has anyone experienced anything similar? Were you able to fix it? What was the cause? Any guidance would be great! Thanks in Advance guys.
Your system is like OVER charged. If it has too much of the refrigerant in it, it is probably slugging the compressor and not allowing it to properly charge. Good news is the system is still holding pressure, so you can have it vented or purged and then vacuumed and refilled to the proper amount of r134a.

This is all just from a bit of reading I've been doing to recharge my AC in my truck. I'm not an HVAC tech or nuthin. ...please take this with a grain of salt. Haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the weird thing is we had never charged it. I know the shop mechanic mentioned he was going to charge it, but he said it had plenty of refrigerant.
 

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the weird thing is we had never charged it. I know the shop mechanic mentioned he was going to charge it, but he said it had plenty of refrigerant.
Hmm. Not sure then. I know how much that would be pain in the rear to not have AC in the heat... Trying to get mine buttoned up as we speak.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess I need to check the blend door and compressor clutch. Have either of you swapped out the compressor clutch or blend door? I imagine the blend door is a much easier fix than a compressor or compressor clutch.
 

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If the blend door is where I think it is, it's nearly as difficult as the heater core I just did.

Entire dash has to come out and the dash support has to be removed from the frame. It's a bear.
 

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Not sure what somebody said meant by venting, but never “vent” refrigerant into the atmosphere. It is a very large fine and is bad for the environment. It’s a $32,500 fine if caught doing so. Have it properly recovered and recorded by a licensed epa 608/609 technician. I have my epa 608 license and would strongly recommend a professional to assist you.
 

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Not sure what somebody said meant by venting, but never “vent” refrigerant into the atmosphere. It is a very large fine and is bad for the environment. It’s a $32,500 fine if caught doing so. Have it properly recovered and recorded by a licensed epa 608/609 technician.
Yowza!!! :surprise:
 

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Not sure what somebody said meant by venting, but never “vent” refrigerant into the atmosphere. It is a very large fine and is bad for the environment. It’s a $32,500 fine if caught doing so. Have it properly recovered and recorded by a licensed epa 608/609 technician. I have my epa 608 license and would strongly recommend a professional to assist you.
Yes, I should have been more clear... Lol. Have it recovered by a licensed shop not just to atmosphere.

I assumed that was common knowledge as it used to be an ozone depleting substance (R12?). R134a is not ozone depleting, I think but still very much illegal to vent to atmosphere.
 

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R134a is not ozone depleting, I think but still very much illegal to vent to atmosphere.
not ozone depleting...still illegal... thanks hippies...
As a "hippy" I should note that it has ~4000* the heat trapping ability of CO2.....soooo its a pretty big deal, especially if we were all just venting our refrigerant willy-nilly. 😉
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@Bronson1729 try running it on "recirc" mode and see if it still does it. You should be able to hear the blend doors moving around. recirc is located behind the glove box.
Good idea. I will definitely try that the next time it acts up. Its such a pain.. Its so random its hard to pinpoint! And of course it always acts up after hours or during the weekend when my local mechanic shop is closed
 

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Hmm. Not sure then. I know how much that would be pain in the rear to not have AC in the heat... Trying to get mine buttoned up as we speak.
PM incoming...lol I am here now after a heater core swap out
 

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what does a heater core swap have to do with refrigerant??
In order to swap your heater core, you have to disconnect and discharge the two AC lines that run through the HVAC system at the firewall.

This means you'll have to recharge the AC after the heater core swap. It's a cruddy design, but makes sense once you're in there and taking a look around.

There's no way around it.
 

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what does a heater core swap have to do with refrigerant??
In order to swap your heater core, you have to disconnect and discharge the two AC lines that run through the HVAC system at the firewall.

This means you'll have to recharge the AC after the heater core swap. It's a cruddy design, but makes sense once you're in there and taking a look around.

There's no way around it.
To get the new HC lines in the AC system has to be pulled up and slightly out so the new pipes, the OEM had shorter pipes out of the HC w/quick disconnects the new one had full lines so that tilting is needed.

The two HC line and the two AC lines all go into the same grommet so all had to be disconnected which meant AC needed to be discharged
 
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