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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone taken a good look at the stock wheels? They pretty much have spacers built into the mounting surface of the wheel. How else could they clear the strange caliper design on the front hubs of the X?
It seems to me that using a quality spacer that is just the right thickness to clear the caliper is no different than how the stock wheels are made.
I understand now why NO wheels will fit the new X, using a tiny spacer to make the front hub more like a normal vehicles front hub is the only way fit any wheel you like.
Also, I noticed someone posted that wheel spacers are illegal in most states. I would like a clarification though: Is that concerning spacers that do not replace the lugs as well as ones that do? Spacers that do NOT replace the lugs ARE VERY dangerous, I don't see how those that do replace the lugs are dangerous at all.
 

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one problem with wheel spacers is the fact that they put more stress on wheel bearings. high offset wheels do the same though. another problem is that they require a lot of maintenance, some people don't check the torque of the lug nuts of the spacer, which could possibly allow your wheel to fall off. IF people maintain them and check them on a regular basis, i don't see a problem with running them. that being said once i do the titan swap, i'm going to probably run them in the rear to even things out, probably only an inch and a half though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
2006fronty said:
oh yeah i forgot, regular wheel spacers ( the ones without lugnuts) are fine if you get longer studs
True. I'm gonna put some spacers on the front just so I can clear the caliper with the black steel wheels I want to get.
 

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The more I read up on spacers, the more I am coming to believe their negative reputation is derived mostly from the street racing scene. many import cars, popular to street racers, have a 4 bolt pattern. Fewer bolts means more stress for each bolt. The most common hazard I've read about involves shearing the bolts under massive torque.

I personally, don't think that hazard applies to us.
 

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Syndicate said:
The most common hazard I've read about involves shearing the bolts under massive torque.

I personally, don't think that hazard applies to us.

dont you think that having traction on only one wheel is alot of torque? rock crawling requires alot of torque being transfered to the wheels...ESP when locked and with one tire in the air. i would think driving a 4700 lbs truck on one/two wheels is just as stressful as a 2800lbs car runnign a trackday....

there are lots of import rims that have a "spacer" built into the wheel.they'll just run you as much as getting a custom rim from centerline,etc.....
 

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Oh yeah, I do think 4wheeling involves a lot of torque. I was just implying that we've got 6 bolts per wheel, rather than 4, and therefore felt like our system was more sturdy. It's only speculation.

I was also talking about street racing, like the illegal kind, where sub-par vehicle care might be more prevalent than in pro racing.
 

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I just received my 1" spacers(referred to as wheel adapters on the website) from EZAccessory.com. I got the 6x4.5 to 6x4.5 bolt pattern because I'm going to use my stock wheels. These are the ones where there are holes drilled as well as studs pressed in. They're seemingly high quality (T6 6061 aluminum, NC machined,blah,blah,blah). To add some ease of mind, I ordered hub rings (aluminum also) frm 1010tires.com. To fit the spacers and my OEM OR wheels (2006), I purchased the 73 OD/66.1 ID rings(set of four). The hub rings fit the wheel adapters perfectly as well as the hub pilot on the Xterra hubs.

After test fitting them last night, everything's gonna work out great except I need to get lug nuts to mount the spacers to the hub that won't interfere with the wheel. Even though our wheels have cut-outs between the lug nut holes, they're not very wide. Therefore, the lug nuts used to mount the spacer to the hub must either be less than 17mm in diameter or need to be short enough to fit within the profile of the spacer. Discount Tire has some spline drive lug nuts (12x1.25) that I'm hoping will work. If not, EZAccessory has short open-ended lug nuts that might do the trick. Worse case scenario, I grind down the lug nuts a little bit but I'd prefer to avoid this method.

Just my 2 cents...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ahnyoungboi3 said:
Syndicate said:
The most common hazard I've read about involves shearing the bolts under massive torque.

I personally, don't think that hazard applies to us.

dont you think that having traction on only one wheel is alot of torque? rock crawling requires alot of torque being transfered to the wheels...ESP when locked and with one tire in the air. i would think driving a 4700 lbs truck on one/two wheels is just as stressful as a 2800lbs car runnign a trackday....

there are lots of import rims that have a "spacer" built into the wheel.they'll just run you as much as getting a custom rim from centerline,etc.....
Read some reviews on the billet Spidertrax spacers. They are approved by a bunch of rockcrawling groups. If the spacers available from ezaccessory are anywhere near the quality of the Spidertrax we'll be more than fine, especially if we are only running them on the front as I plan to do.
One more observation: Why would one need to check the spacer lug nut torque any more often than checking the torque of the lug nuts on wheels without spacers? I'm sure almost no one regularly checks their lug nut torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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they do provide nuts but I can't attest to the quality. AND, when I ordered my adapters online, the default stud thread spec was 1/2" so I got nuts that work on 1/2" thread studs. You need 12x1.25 nuts to mount the adapter to the hub. For the studs pressed into the adapter, I'd ask them if you can get the 12x1.25 studs instead of 1/2". Not absolutely necessary but it would save you having to buy another set of lug nuts
 

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you should check your lug nut torque often. with spacers you have twice as many lug nuts that could possibly come loose, if you are going on a long trip you should check, if you go offroad check them before you go and after. its just a " better safe than sorry" thing.
 

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Someone can certainly provide input if the following is not a good idea for some reason but I use pipe thread tape on the studs coming out of the hub. Just a little added assurance on the nuts not loosening up as quickly.

With regards to the nuts loosening up, I would recommend torqueing them to factory specs and then after 50 miles, check 'em again. When I checked the tightness on mine after 50-75 miles with the pipe thread tape around the threads, the nuts were still torqued to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
2006fronty said:
you should check your lug nut torque often. with spacers you have twice as many lug nuts that could possibly come loose, if you are going on a long trip you should check, if you go offroad check them before you go and after. its just a " better safe than sorry" thing.
I'm just saying that there ALOT of vehicles on the road and I'm sure only a very small fraction of those ever have their lug nut torque checked. I check mine and will check the spacer nut torque too. It just seems HIGHLY unlikely that those nuts will ever appreciably loosen, especially to the point of making the spacer come loose.
 

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You would be surprised, just because people don't check their lugnuts regularly , and nothing has happened YET doesn't mean it is a smart thing to do. a lot of people don't maintain their vehicles, and that doesn't make them smart right???? i'm going to run spacers on the rear of my truck eventually, but i am prepared to check them on a regular basis. neglect on any part aftermarket or not is dangerous.
 
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