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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm interested in painting some of the exterior sections of my X, along with some of my off-road gear. A salesperson at Home Depot suggested using just about any Rust-Oleum spray paint. I picked out some stuff called Rust-Oleum Textured (Fine Textured Finish/Distinctive Durable Coating). I already rolled under the X, touching up undercarriage trail damage. I would like to possibly paint the wheels, maybe the quarter panels, maybe the roof rack/gear basket, and possibly even the side trim.

Questions:
1) How important is it to sand and prime? Like, could I get away with just masking-off and spraying the wheels?
2) Will this spray paint work out on plastic?
3) What kind of longevity can be expected from this type of paint?
4) I'd like a matte finish. Do I have to use a clear-coat? If so, wouldn't that make it a glossy finish?

Thank you.
 

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Re: RATTLE CAN PAINT

SHADOW said:
Don`t know about the rest but Rust-Oleum makes a spray paint just for plastic.I got some at Home Depot.
X2 on the plastic paint.
You can also get clearcoat in satin and matte finish.
Definitely sand the wheels before painting... the factory coating is very slick and with the wheels being so prone to chips and scrapes rattlecan paint would just flake right off.
Cleaning is probably the most important part... use alcohol or mineral spirits but sand and priming are what will really make it stick.
OH yeah, sanding and priming is a total PITA!
 

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Clean everything as good as you can...I mean good. Sand it good as well. then spray. Make sure the temp is above 65º.

Duplicolor makes a spray paint just for wheels.

Spray paint will hold up decent, but obviously won't last on rocks.

I am still a huge fan of Por15 for rusted parts.
 

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I agree. You'll get the best results if you're patient and do a good job with your prep work.

Clean
Sand
Clean
Let dry
Paint

Don't rush the job. It's easy to get caught up in the action and slap on paint just to make it look pretty. Take some time to enjoy the project.
 

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The paint durability will be as good as the preparation you'll have done.

The paint is like the icing on a cake, if you cook a bad cake the icing won't save it. Same with paint...
 

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wash it with soap and water.
use grease/wax remover
let dry COMPLETELY
textured surfaces i.e. rear quarter panel, roof compartment etc do not need sanding
smooth surfaces need to be scuffed with sand paper (helps paint stick to surface)
primer is only used to help adhere the paint and fill imperfections, but not necessary when doing small trim.

on my Cherokee, i painted my fender flares with that under carraige spray from AutoZone (really cheap only $3 a can). i used black primer then sprayed with the textured spray. i went over that with clear coat spray but i dont think that is necessary, only for looks. that didnt last long in MOAB tho :blackeye:
 

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I second the duplicolor paints. In fact thats all i would be using on my car - http://www.duplicolor.com/ . I have been kicking around doing my wheels a matte black and everyone always points me in the direction of duplicolor. Check out their website. They have cool how-to's also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the tips. The only Duplicolor paint I can find at Autozone or Pepboys is caliper paint, so I guess the search is on.
 

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duplicolor sent me an email about putting the truck bed liner on my bumpers

Will,

Thank you for your inquiry. Dull, dry, and clean are the keys for proper
adhesion. I suggest de-glossing the surface by sanding to create a profile.
Clean with acetone and a lint free cloth and then apply our Self Etching
Primer # DAP-1690. Follow this with our Truck Bed Coating.

If you have any additional questions, please ask.
 
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