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Just a small washer a little bigger than the diameter of the nut. I marked the positions with a paint pen after I re-torqued them and I haven't noticed any movement in them after any of my trips.
I just re read this. A SMALL washer. Smaller than the OE washer I assume. Thus that side of the bolt and still slide in the slot, and the SMALL washer does not contact the camming tabs on the mount. Not ideal but I guess it will work.

That is why you said it doesn't move.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Wow, yeah that's backwards and like others have said you have a massive amount of preload on the coil so it doesn't absorb anything and rides like a dump truck.

I was looking at your pic though and have another question, did you replace the lower control arm bolts at some point? I've never seen a washer like that, it's not a factory camber bolt or any after market I know of. Looks almost like some used a grinder to shave the edges off which technically would let them adjust camber but there's no way it's going to be able to hold that position without being massively over torqued.
I have never replaced anything on the lower control arm but I did give the mechanic a set of cam bolts (2 per side) to install when he put in the 5100s. Based on the level of rust I would guess that the bolt in question is older and most likely got that way up in NJ before I moved south. Is this going to be a problem in the future?

The main point of this suspension upgrade was to strengthen the original setup and make room for larger tires soon. I was really hoping this kit would give me some piece of mind rather than this headache...
 

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I just re read this. A SMALL washer. Smaller than the OE washer I assume. Thus that side of the bolt and still slide in the slot, and the SMALL washer does not contact the camming tabs on the mount. Not ideal but I guess it will work.

That is why you said it doesn't move.
Correct, it's smaller than the OD of the eccentric washers normally used. When I said it didn't move, I was saying that after the camber was set, it hasn't slid due to the force of the suspension because of it not having an eccentric.

I got these on here from a member who didn't use them. I used them because it was what I had on hand at the time I installed my kit. I have another set that has two eccentrics per bolt rather than the one per bolt this kit has, but after being told that these would side I decided that since they were there I would run them and see just what it would take to move them. I have the lifetime alignment from Firestone, so I'm not out anything but a little time to swap them for the other set and have another alignment done in the future should I begin having troubles with them slipping. I'll be going over my X this weekend I hope to put in new rack bushings and I'll try to get some pictures of them and I'll be checking for movement.

I'm not saying they AREN'T going to move, I'm just saying that since March, they haven't.

I have never replaced anything on the lower control arm but I did give the mechanic a set of cam bolts (2 per side) to install when he put in the 5100s. Based on the level of rust I would guess that the bolt in question is older and most likely got that way up in NJ before I moved south. Is this going to be a problem in the future?

The main point of this suspension upgrade was to strengthen the original setup and make room for larger tires soon. I was really hoping this kit would give me some piece of mind rather than this headache...
Anytime you modify a vehicle, you'll have some difficulties. However, what happened is a common mistake with those shocks. We've seen it several times. Don't let it discourage you!

How much total lift are you trying to run?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Anytime you modify a vehicle, you'll have some difficulties. However, what happened is a common mistake with those shocks. We've seen it several times. Don't let it discourage you!

How much total lift are you trying to run?
I'm happy with it at 1.5-2 inches. In ~5k miles I'll need new tires (student budget means most "mods" are really upgraded repairs) so I want to go from my current 265/75R16 to a 285 like the BFG AT's. This is still my DD and only vehicle so how it behaves on road takes priority for now
 

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OK then. First thing first then, get your current situation righted.

Since you are staying near the 1.5" mark, your ride should be pretty good after this if fixed. You need to browse the for sale ads here and the Xterra Frontier Yardsale on FB. Keep your eyes peeled for a set of SPC UCA's. You're going to want them when you get those new tires. At this lift, you are near maxing out what your cam bolts are capable of adjusting and you will be putting extra wear on those tires. You might get it close as you are and just rotate more often though.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
What he said..
I am also curious
I left a message last night letting him know I was gonna come by. He called me back while i was at work and he set up a time to check it out and resolve the issue. Over the phone he sounded willing to fix the issue without any hassle so since he is closed Mondays he put me down for 1st thing Tuesday. I'll update if/when this is resolved. For now I'll be taking bumps at granny pace
 

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I left a message last night letting him know I was gonna come by. He called me back while i was at work and he set up a time to check it out and resolve the issue. Over the phone he sounded willing to fix the issue without any hassle so since he is closed Mondays he put me down for 1st thing Tuesday. I'll update if/when this is resolved. For now I'll be taking bumps at granny pace
Well, hows this working our for you? Have you gotten it set back right?

As for the control arm bolts, here's a pic of mine.

20181012_164121 by TerryD, on Flickr

You can see the paint I marked them with so I could see if they were moving. After the summer of wheeling and traveling, they haven't moved yet. I'm going to keep using them until I start seeing them move.
 

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I left a message last night letting him know I was gonna come by. He called me back while i was at work and he set up a time to check it out and resolve the issue. Over the phone he sounded willing to fix the issue without any hassle so since he is closed Mondays he put me down for 1st thing Tuesday. I'll update if/when this is resolved. For now I'll be taking bumps at granny pace
After reading through this thread I would be concerned that your mechanic may have made another common mistake with these (besides the spring cup being upside down). Refer to the install diagram already posted and make sure that the included Bilstein "Boot Cover Washer" is visible above the dust cover boot. If it is not, then he replaced the OEM Nissan "Top Washer" with the included Bilstein washer. This is a common mistake if he's never installed 5100's. Without the bottom washer the strut rod will push up through the bushings and provide no dampening. Just something else to verify.
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Currently because of the flipped spring seat the bottom of the boot is not visible so I will have that checked once it is pulled apart.

I'll be attempting to get all of these issues fixed first thing in the morning so here is my current list to bring up:
1. Flip lower spring seat
2. be sure there is a boot cover washer that was supplied as well as the original top washer from Nissan
3. LCA camber bolts... After posting the picture it was brought to my attention that they look like the originals were ground down even though I brought 4 new aftermarket bolts.

If you can think of anything else I forgot I'd appreciate the input. I can also add pictures of anything in particular you need more info on. I really want this to be sorted out asap so that I can hit some trails this weekend!
 

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After reading through this thread I would be concerned that your mechanic may have made another common mistake with these (besides the spring cup being upside down). Refer to the install diagram already posted and make sure that the included Bilstein "Boot Cover Washer" is visible above the dust cover boot. If it is not, then he replaced the OEM Nissan "Top Washer" with the included Bilstein washer. This is a common mistake if he's never installed 5100's. Without the bottom washer the strut rod will push up through the bushings and provide no dampening. Just something else to verify.
Mech probably did it correctly. I would think it would have pushed through already if the washer was missing. given how harsh he says the bumps are.
 

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I bet the cam bolts were seized in the LCA bushing and that was his solution.

The coilover needs to be installed exactly like the diagram @RikRong posted on the first page.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The washers look basically identical to each other, same cutoff look
 

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I bet the cam bolts were seized in the LCA bushing and that was his solution.
Guaranteed. I thought about doing the same, but couldn't bring myself to do such a hack, so I proceeded to chop up my '15 and put in new LCA's and cam bolts. That sucked.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Guaranteed. I thought about doing the same, but couldn't bring myself to do such a hack, so I proceeded to chop up my '15 and put in new LCA's and cam bolts. That sucked.
DING DING DING! you and JSexton got it. When I dropped it off today to get fixed he explained that the bushings were toast and they were able to move these bolts enough to keep it aligned so he left it
 
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