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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Less than a month ago I had the 5100/AAL kit installed in my X. I wanted a mild lift so that I could strengthen the 12 year old leaf springs and get ready for 285's in the next couple thousand miles. I don't have any serious armor so I knew the back might be a little springy but what I got is almost unbearable.

The front adjustable springs are set to 1.5 but I measured exactly 2 inches of lift with the old coil springs... red flag #1

Now when I drive on roads (which are pretty darn flat here in FL) the car bounces around over every little bump or ripple in the road... red flag #2

The car was noticeably stiffer cornering and the squat/dive from accelerating is gone which was a big reason why I replaced the shocks but the ride is horrible. My current theory is that my mechanic installed it incorrectly. Can anyone help?

 

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Discussion Starter #3
They installed your coil buckets upside down on the front shocks for one thing.
Thanks Terry,

Flipping it should take off some of the preload right? Is there anything else he might have messed up I should look for? I trust this mechanic, he usually does great work but the day after I dropped off my X his dad went into the hospital so hopefully he was just distracted that week
 

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Please clarify if bounce means the springs are going up and down or you are getting jolted when hitting road imperfections. Springs going up and down means the shocks aren’t stiff enough. Getting jolted means the shocks are too stiff. Yeah, opposite effects and a lot of folks use ‘bounce’ for both of them.
 

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They installed your coil buckets upside down on the front shocks for one thing.
^^^What he said. You can see that there's a ton of preload on those springs. If he reverses the coil bucket, your ride will improve significantly. Also, if he messed that up, there's a possibility he installed the bushings at the top incorrectly. I'll look for that diagram and post it in here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Please clarify if bounce means the springs are going up and down or you are getting jolted when hitting road imperfections. Springs going up and down means the shocks aren’t stiff enough. Getting jolted means the shocks are too stiff. Yeah, opposite effects and a lot of folks use ‘bounce’ for both of them.
When I drive over almost any imperfection in the road like an uneven seam the car bounces multiple times. Usually 2-4 back and forth cycles before it settles out.

^^^What he said. You can see that there's a ton of preload on those springs. If he reverses the coil bucket, your ride will improve significantly. Also, if he messed that up, there's a possibility he installed the bushings at the top incorrectly. I'll look for that diagram and post it in here.
Awesome graphic, thanks! I'll bring a copy of this with me to the shop.
 

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I just installed 5100s on my OEM springs and initially I made that same mistake on the first one (putting the bucket on upside down). I couldn't even get the spring compressed enough to install the bushings and nut on the top. And I only had the preload ring at the 1.0" position. Looked at it again and realized I had it upside down, swapped it and then it was clear sailing. I'm surprised you only measured 2" of lift with it like that. It looks like the 1.5" due to the preload ring position and then another 1.5" from the bucket upside down. Have him fix it asap.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'll be bringing the X to his shop tomorrow after work. I hope he offers to fix the problem otherwise I'll be finding a new mechanic. Like I said he took longer than usual because of family matters so I don't want to hold it against him if it really is a 1 time thing, we all have those days
 

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This actually seems to happen pretty often. If you trust the guy and screw-ups aren't the norm, and he makes this right after you bring it to his attention, I say stick with him.
I hear what you are saying, but imho this isn't a very difficult task, and to screw something up as simple as this concerns me. Had the OP not been diligent and posted here on the forum, he would still be riding around on this mechanics screw up.

Bottom line, I'm glad the OP is getting it resolved, and nothing bad happened as a result of the mechanics mistake.
 

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Wow, yeah that's backwards and like others have said you have a massive amount of preload on the coil so it doesn't absorb anything and rides like a dump truck.

I was looking at your pic though and have another question, did you replace the lower control arm bolts at some point? I've never seen a washer like that, it's not a factory camber bolt or any after market I know of. Looks almost like some used a grinder to shave the edges off which technically would let them adjust camber but there's no way it's going to be able to hold that position without being massively over torqued.
 

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Spring seat. Coil bucket is part of the truck. Sorry to nick pick. Sure we all know the difference just want to OP to use to the right term when talking with the mech.
Fixed it to avoid confusion. For some reason that snapped into my head rather than spring seat.
 

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Wow, yeah that's backwards and like others have said you have a massive amount of preload on the coil so it doesn't absorb anything and rides like a dump truck.

I was looking at your pic though and have another question, did you replace the lower control arm bolts at some point? I've never seen a washer like that, it's not a factory camber bolt or any after market I know of. Looks almost like some used a grinder to shave the edges off which technically would let them adjust camber but there's no way it's going to be able to hold that position without being massively over torqued.
It looks like they ground down the factory washers and pulled the control arms all the way out to correct the camber since the truck still has OE UCAs.

On a side note, I've been running cam bolts all summer with only one eccentric on each set and have not had any issue with them moving as of yet. And they are torqued at the factory spec, I double checked them in my driveway at I had my alignment done.
 

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It looks like they ground down the factory washers and pulled the control arms all the way out to correct the camber since the truck still has OE UCAs.

On a side note, I've been running cam bolts all summer with only one eccentric on each set and have not had any issue with them moving as of yet. And they are torqued at the factory spec, I double checked them in my driveway at I had my alignment done.
So if only one of the washer is eccentric what does the other one look like; a big washer like the factory non adjustable one. That will result in the bolt and the bushing sleeve sitting crocked in the mount. The mount is a slot, the non eccentric would position the bolt in the middle. The eccentric if positioned up or down would have the bolt sit in the middle of the slot; matched to the non E side. If the large part of the loob is to one side or the other than the bolt would sit on one extreme or the other of the slot. This would be bad for the pivot. Bind it and or reduce its life span.
 

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So if only one of the washer is eccentric what does the other one look like; a big washer like the factory non adjustable one. That will result in the bolt and the bushing sleeve sitting crocked in the mount. The mount is a slot, the non eccentric would position the bolt in the middle. The eccentric if positioned up or down would have the bolt sit in the middle of the slot; matched to the non E side. If the large part of the loob is to one side or the other than the bolt would sit on one extreme or the other of the slot. This would be bad for the pivot. Bind it and or reduce its life span.
Just a small washer a little bigger than the diameter of the nut. I marked the positions with a paint pen after I re-torqued them and I haven't noticed any movement in them after any of my trips.
 

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Just a small washer a little bigger than the diameter of the nut. I marked the positions with a paint pen after I re-torqued them and I haven't noticed any movement in them after any of my trips.
Not what i am talking about. If both washers on the bolt are not camming type eccentrics then the bolt should only sit in the middle of the adjustment/LCA mount slot. If the one eccentric washer is cammed over pushing that side of the bolt to either extremes of the slot; the bolt will sit diagonally in the mount instead of straight like it is suppose to. As a result the bushing and the metal sleeve will also be crocked. THis will bind the pivot and wear the rubber part of the bushing. Sorry if i am having a hard to time with my word smithing and explaining this to you. Here is a picture of a generic mounting slot and cam bolt. I suspect that someone lost half of the eccentric washers and just used 1/2 OE centered ones.



 

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Not looking to threadjack, but wanted to comment that I so enjoyed reading this thread.

I'm a very technical guy with significant skill in my area of expertise, Web Delivery. Top 1% in a global company. Not bragging, establishing baseline of "I'm very good at what I do"

It never ceases to amaze me how much information can be extracted from a picture being "read" by an expert vs a lay person in the skill.

Being able to theorize about the why's and wherenot's of a situation just by the background. I can do that in my field, however I got exactly _zero_ info out of the provided pictures, even with the schematic and going back to find spring seat vs coil bucket. How is that different from a chum bucket? :)

In closing, hats off to you guys. Well done!
 
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