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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Go out this morning, start the truck, and let it sit for 5 minutes to warm up. I disengage the ebrake and put it in drive. Then I notice multiple lights on the dash are on. The 4WD, Brake, ABS, VDC Off, and SLIP (No SES or TMPS light) are lit.

I also notice the odometer and the display with the 4 wheels (showing if it's in 2WD or 4WD) is blank. Literally just the orange background.

I read up on the multiple IPDM threads, but have not had the truck "die out" or stall on me at all...

Has anyone else experienced this? Any thoughts on this is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I found this: http://www.titanspot.com/Titan/index.php?showtopic=9442

IPDM-ER is the (Intelligent Power Distribution Module in the Engine Room).

Failure Symptoms: Truck can be stuck in "limp mode", erratic flashing lights such as SLIP, 4WD, ABS, Check engine etc., and most importantly the engine dies and can only be restarted after some time!... :smt005
New reports are also showing Titans that won't start up from cold due to a failed IPDM-ER.

Don't look for warning lights or codes to assist you for the diagnosis of a failed IPDM-ER board however there is a "Auto Active Test" feature you can perform easily:
1- Turn the ignition switch on
2- Press the door light activator switch in 10 times........notice the open door light on the dash will flash each time you press the switch.
3- Turn the ignition switch Off then back ON.
4- The horn will beep, oil light will flash, the defroster will cycle, headlights will flash, cooling fan will cycle, wipers will come on and ac compressor will cycle if the IDPM-ER is functioning "NORMAL".
This morning when the issue occurred, I immediately shut off the engine and performed the above test. It went through the cycle of the horn beeping, oil light flashing, windshield wipers running, etc.

Then when I turned it back on after doing the IPDM test, it started fine with none of the lights on! Argh! Frustrating.

So does this mean the IPDM is ok, and the issue lies somewhere else? Or maybe the IPDM is starting to fail, but is not completely dead yet?

I guess the simple solution (for now) is just to restart it until the issue becomes persistent even after a restart.
 

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Sounds like it could also be in the ABS module or sensors; if it went through the cycle of accessories the way it was supposed to, then the IPDM should be okay, right?

Rook's suggestion to pull the ABS fuse, would lead me to believe it was something in the ABS system; if it causes the same symptoms.
 

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What is step 2 saying to do? Door light activation switch?? What is that? My dash has been lit up like christmas for a few months. I figured it was one (or multiple) of the ABS sensors as my fuse seems to be okay. But I guess I could check the IPDM. Help a brother out!

Oh yeah. My mileage has been stuck at exactly 45,000 ever since! :)
 

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If your odometer and speedo aren't working it is a possibility it is the abs relay in the ipdm. Pulling that relay/fuse causes about five or six lights on the dash to come on, and prevents the speedo or odometer from working....
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The "door light activator switch" is the part of the door that knows whether it is closed or not. Open the driver side front door, position yourself so you are looking at the driver's seat (sideways) and you will see the door light activator switch on the right side.

I'll try to snap a pic tomorrow if you are still confused.

BTW - I figured out the problem. The IPDM was fine. One of the fuses/relays somehow had gotten loose. I took it out and plugged it back in, and things are A ok!
 

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I know this is an old thread but this was a top result in Google for me. Reading this thread to assess similar issues on my 2007 Xterra I noticed the link to run the IPDM test was broken. I believe titanspot.com is on an outdated or hacked website publishing platform and when I try to share the link it changes the domain to a comic website. Here’s the content with credit to user Honeykeeper. Hope this can help someone who might find this thread on Google and needs to trouble shoot:


Failure Symptoms: Truck can be stuck in "limp mode", erratic flashing lights such as SLIP, 4WD, ABS, Check engine etc., and most importantly the engine dies and can only be restarted after some time!...

New reports are also showing Titans that won't start up from cold due to a failed IPDM-ER.

Don't look for warning lights or codes to assist you for the diagnosis of a failed IPDM-ER board however there is a "Auto Active Test" feature you can perform easily:

1- Turn the ignition switch on

2- Press the door light activator switch in 10 times........notice the open door light on the dash will flash each time you press the switch.

3- Turn the ignition switch Off then back ON.

4- The horn will beep, oil light will flash, the defroster will cycle, headlights will flash, cooling fan will cycle, wipers will come on and ac compressor will cycle if the IDPM-ER is functioning "NORMAL".
 

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I know this is an old thread but this was a top result in Google for me. Reading this thread to assess similar issues on my 2007 Xterra I noticed the link to run the IPDM test was broken. I believe this is the new link: https://www.thecomicboard.com/upload/threads/ipdm-er-failure-replacement-04-06-titans.1798/

Hope this can help someone who might find this thread on Google and needs to trouble shoot.
Link doesn't work for me.

IPDM issues can be maddening. Unfortunately, that test is not all that accurate. You can have a trashed IPDM but that test will still work and indicate everything is fine.

Personally, my white IPDM was toast but not a single check engine light, pending code or the IPDM test you described indicated anything. What lead me to suspect my white IPDM was bad was when it would crank-no-start I'd hook up the code reader and the reader would state "Unable to communicate with the ECU" but there was no code or check engine light. I eventually found that when the white IPDM's go bad they tend to corrode around the ECU relay, preventing the ECU from communicating with the rest of the truck, resulting in a crank-no-start condition. To test it out, I bought a new ECU relay from the dealerhip for $4, swapped that in and it fired up for the first time in about a month and a couple dozen start attempts. I replaced the white IPDM with a black one and haven't had an issue in years.
 

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Link doesn't work for me.

IPDM issues can be maddening. Unfortunately, that test is not all that accurate. You can have a trashed IPDM but that test will still work and indicate everything is fine.

Personally, my white IPDM was toast but not a single check engine light, pending code or the IPDM test you described indicated anything. What lead me to suspect my white IPDM was bad was when it would crank-no-start I'd hook up the code reader and the reader would state "Unable to communicate with the ECU" but there was no code or check engine light. I eventually found that when the white IPDM's go bad they tend to corrode around the ECU relay, preventing the ECU from communicating with the rest of the truck, resulting in a crank-no-start condition. To test it out, I bought a new ECU relay from the dealerhip for $4, swapped that in and it fired up for the first time in about a month and a couple dozen start attempts. I replaced the white IPDM with a black on and haven't had an issue in years.
Looks like the Titan site might be hacked. I copied and pasted it in my post above with credit to Honeykeeper.

Thanks for sharing your troubleshooting. The IPDM test worked for me and my OBDII scanner says right front and right rear sensors are bad along with steering angle sensor. Replacing the speed sensors tomorrow and resetting with my OBDII. I’ll look into the relay next if needed.
 

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@SunDevilDrake before you tear your truck apart, be certain you have good battery power.
A bad battery, battery terminal, and/or corroded battery cable will trigger all of those warning codes, many times all at once.
 

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@SunDevilDrake check a couple of grounds if you haven't already.
Two are on the right passenger fender, beside the battery and in front of the coolant bottle. You might have to remove the battery to service them.
Two more are on the left driver fender, right in front of the air intake vent as it passes through the fender wall upstream of the air filter.
Even if they appear clean, loosen and retighten each.
The driver side grounds the abs unit. The passenger side grounds multiple circuits from the ipdm board and the ecm.
 

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Actually just got back inside from checking the 3 on the driver side that I read about in the thread Old Navy linked to. Then I saw your post about the other two on the passenger fender. All 5 of those look good but tomorrow morning I’ll unscrew each one, wire brush and reinstall.
 

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Any chance you have led brake lights? Some have reported Led's interfere with the abs module.

Check the fusible links, right off the positive battery terminal. Be sure all are clean, tight, and none are blown. Then remove, re-insert, and check every fuse in the truck, both underhood and in the interior Junction Box fuse panel. You can check them with a cheap test light, check for power on each leg of the fuse through the little test holes with the key on.
Like this:
 

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Thanks for everyone’s help! I replaced the positive terminal and removed and wire brushed the grounds while I waited for the ABS sensors to arrive. OBDII scanner was correct! Replaced the front right and rear right ABS sensors, cleared the codes and they haven’t come back on!

Now I’m troubleshooting the 4x4 Lo flashing with the VDS on while I try to engage in 4Lo. I can hear and feel the transfer case engage when I select 4Lo though. Doesn’t happen in 2WD or 4x4Hi. Starting to research now.
 
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