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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I have looked in the forums and I can’t quite find what I’m looking for. I’ve got rancho quicklift shocks right now. I’m getting a 2” body lift so I’ll be sitting right at about 4” of lift. I want to know if I can fit 35” tires with offset instead of spacers. If not then I’ll go with 33’s. I also don’t like the look of stuffed fenders so pictures would be appreciated so I can see what 35” tires look like with 4” of lift. I want to avoid as much fender trimming as possible but still not rub. I’m starting to do some rock crawling in the blue ridge mountains and some extra ground clearance would be great. 33’s would probably work but I kind of want 35’s.
 

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I would skip 35s and body lifts, not only fender trim but other factors such as weight, re-gearing, wear and tear for only less than inch in height vs 33s. Mine is almost 3" plus and 285/75/16s plus locker and did fairly well (still need under body protection) in rock crawling, matter of fact the extra clearance between the suspension lift and tire height helped. I am no expert just my opinion.
 

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I would skip 35s and body lifts, not only fender trim but other factors such as weight, re-gearing, wear and tear for only less than inch in height vs 33s. Mine is almost 3" plus and 285/75/16s plus locker and did fairly well (still need under body protection) in rock crawling, matter of fact the extra clearance between the suspension lift and tire height helped. I am no expert just my opinion.
Your X looks badass man. How much ground clearance do you think you have? Also how hard is it to step in? I dig the tire on the back too. Where’d you get the bumper from?
 

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Your X looks badass man. How much ground clearance do you think you have? Also how hard is it to step in? I dig the tire on the back too. Where’d you get the bumper from?
Thanks took a lot of $$$ and time to save but love it, its closer to 4". I'm short at 5'10" but not so hard where I would need to step on the rock rails to climb up but a hop is required. Front is ARB and rear is Shrockworks.
 

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nice truck brother!.. i dont blame you on wanting 35's. Its kind of a bug once you start thinking about them. If you don't mind me asking where about are you located. i live at the beach on the east coast and its rare to see other X's out here.

I have the extended travel kit from nisstec which is about 3" front and back. Im planning on doing a 3" BL for about a total of 5" overall which would allow me to do 35s with a smaller offset (more negative number i mean).
 

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nice truck brother!.. i dont blame you on wanting 35's. Its kind of a bug once you start thinking about them. If you don't mind me asking where about are you located. i live at the beach on the east coast and its rare to see other X's out here.

I have the extended travel kit from nisstec which is about 3" front and back. Im planning on doing a 3" BL for about a total of 5" overall which would allow me to do 35s with a smaller offset (more negative number i mean).
I’m near Williamsburg but I go out to the mountains a lot and I’m always down in OBX surfing since I can drive out on the beach there. Makes things a lot easier lol.where are you at? Also what are some rims for our lug pattern? I can’t find much with around 0 offset or negative offset that don’t cost an arm and a leg. I just want some black rims that look better than the stocks with some offset too
 

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That's cool! didn't know you could drive on the beach out there. I bet it does make it way easier...
I'm in Jacksonville Fl.... not much to do here :(

I have been looking around for some new wheels to fit a 35 and I've found that in order to widen the search you got to upsize on both diameter and width. I've been looking at these:
KMC® KM540 RECON Wheels - Satin Black Machined Rims (carid.com)
They are only a +18 but compared to my +30 factory wheels it is definitely wider. In order to stay off the frame I might still have to do a small spacer to get me closer to a 0 offset.

Here is a good thread with a lot of good information on doing 35s non titan swapped. Beware there is a lot of cutting!

2011 Low Lift on 35s Build and Adventures | Page 4 | Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (thenewx.org)
 

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@j_shaffar

35's with a body lift is totally possible. It's much better with a T-Swap, but you do need to re gear, and you'll have to trim the fenders.

This is MaxGear Armor's truck: One of the best built rigs anywhere. 35's, 4.56's, body lift, T swapped.

 

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Required for 35s:
  • Sawzall
  • No regrets when cutting into metal
  • Depending on the tire, you may need a small spacer or wheel with less offset to clear frame when turned at full lock

Strongly Recommended for 35s:
  • Regear
  • M205 front diff swap + Titan CV axles
  • Titan suspension swap
  • Body lift
  • Fender trimming
  • Better brake pads (IMO stock braking is so weak after tire swap)
  • $$ for gas
Stick with 33's IMO. 35's are cool but you can do 95% of off-road with 33s. Your tires will look stuffed and you have to trim a lot. Below is my truck with 35s (top) and 33s (bottom) back to back. Lift looks like more than it is because I cut my front fender at the top a bit

 

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I've gotten the 35" bug also! I have a 2.5-3" suspension lift plus a 2" body lift. I've trimmed the front fenders and done the fender well melt mod. I've sourced an m205 but still waiting to buy new gears. I hope to have everything on by the end of the summer. This is the X sitting on worn 33s lol.

132944
 

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Agreed with those suggesting to go some route other than 35's. In my work truck I can go the vast majority of places people with budget-big tires can with nothing but some aggressive stock-size all-terrains and armor.

If you actually want to crawl invest in armor and fix your suspension to maximize down travel before doing anything else.

Rancho quicklifts have the exact same travel as stock struts. Save the money you were going to spend on tires & invest in order in armor, UCA's, longer travel struts or coilovers (which can be combined with a spacer to give more lift without hurting down-travel, though it will eat into your compression travel slightly), a rear locker if you don't already have one, and 4.10 or larger gears.

This is one of the best explanations of travel on this site and should be required reading before doing a lift: Prerunnergreg wheel travel explanation

This link shows your current wheel travel with ranchos vs some other struts: Strut length and travel

To break it down what these posts say is the Xterra has severely limited travel before coil bucket contact with stock UCA's (5.6"). You can go up to 7.4" travel (before ball joints & cv's start binding) with aftermarket UCA's and an appropriate (longer stroke) shock. This increases your wheel travel by 1.8" or 32% from stock.

We can't get more wheel travel (articulation, what real rock crawlers want) out of our trucks without changing the cv and ball joint angles so they don't bind. This why people Titan swap (TS).

A TS will give up to 10.4" of usable travel by Greg's numbers. That is 4.8" or 85.7% more than stock. While Greg admits in the post most lift combos will not yield quite that much travel you are still probably at or slightly above 10."

If you do a full TS with a M205 diff, re-gear, front locker (throw in onboard air while you are at it), and the other odds and ends AlbatrossCafe mentioned, you will have a true rock crawler that has been appropriately re-engineered to capably run 35" tires.

This isn't cheap though $$$$$$.

You can totally just body lift and trim what you have right now & throw big rubber on, just understand a Versa will leave you for dead from a stop light, your gas mileage will suck, you are putting significant additional wear on the drivetrain, steering, & cooling systems; when you actually off road the lack of power, wheel contact, & traction will necessitate using lots of right pedal & momentum to get over & through obstacles and when a shock load inevitably combines with the increased leverage forces offered by the large tires you will break things that are incredibly annoying to fix on a trail.

Hopefully this helps the OP make an informed decision. In case anyone can't tell I am not a fan of changing anything on a vehicle unless it has a purpose, fixes an issue, or improves it in some way.

I would argue 33" tires do those things given the OP's purpose while creating (significantly) less problems, and are the (much) better choice...
 

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I would skip 35s and body lifts, not only fender trim but other factors such as weight, re-gearing, wear and tear for only less than inch in height vs 33s. Mine is almost 3" plus and 285/75/16s plus locker and did fairly well (still need under body protection) in rock crawling, matter of fact the extra clearance between the suspension lift and tire height helped. I am no expert just my opinion.
This !
 

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132994


33s to 35s done right will probably cost an additional $3k to $5k more for how much of gain, and beside the $$ each mod is a risk (bad part, poor installation, etc.) get lights they are good for rock crawling/avoidance too :ROFLMAO:
 
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