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I'm still in the weeds on researching a re-gear from my very aenemic 3.13 differential to a front R180, and rear M226

I think for the 33" tires I'm driving, a 3.69 ratio is better. I'd still feel some amount of boost in power - where going up to 4.10 is... too much ? Can that be right ?

Mr Bojangles had a 3.69 front differential that's now on my patio. I'm looking into a M226 w/ an air locker. Just still unsure of the re-gearing.

I'd like to hear feedback on those who've actually done this.

Regrets ? Whats would you do differently - if anything ?
 

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I have 4.10's and 35s normally. In the winter, I have 4.10 and 33s. IMO the 4.10s and 33s are just a tad too tall for the highway. 70mph is around 3k RPM. My MPG is actually worse with the 33s than the 35s because of this (by like 0.5 MPG, but still).

However, the 4.10 and 33 are GREAT for offroad. I had that setup for about 4 months before I went to 35s, including one long road trip to California. Again, the highway was "ok". You weren't lacking for power at all. TBH it drove normally, it's just that staring at 3k RPM for 6 hours while cruising is not ideal to me.

The 4.10 and 35s are probably pretty comparable to the 3.69 and 33s, and I think that is the best compromise between highway driving and offroad. If you don't plan to ever go up to 35s, then I'd say stick with 3.69. I will say, I think regearing was one of the single best mods you can do for your Xterra.

PS: The manual PRO-4x trim is 3.69. So if you find an M226, you will not have to regear AND it will have a locker already in it. That will save you a ton of money. Problem is they are hard to come by.

PPS: You can drive my truck this winter if you wanna try it out
 

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What about going from 3.36 to 3.69 with 33's. How noticable would that be?

Mpg difference? Or just acceleration?

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What about going from 3.36 to 3.69 with 33's. How noticable would that be?

Mpg difference? Or just acceleration?

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I went from the 3.36 to 3.69 on 33" KO2. Mileage was maybe a hair better, but the truck came back to life. It was really sluggish with those heavy tires and gearing. Performance was a noticeable change.

Keep in mind, this was an auto. I think if you have a manual, you should be looking at 4.10s.
 

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I'm still in the weeds on researching a re-gear from my very aenemic 3.13 differential to a front R180, and rear M226

I think for the 33" tires I'm driving, a 3.69 ratio is better. I'd still feel some amount of boost in power - where going up to 4.10 is... too much ? Can that be right ?

Mr Bojangles had a 3.69 front differential that's now on my patio. I'm looking into a M226 w/ an air locker. Just still unsure of the re-gearing.

I'd like to hear feedback on those who've actually done this.

Regrets ? Whats would you do differently - if anything ?
I'm assuming you're an auto, but I have an auto with 3.69 gears and 33" tires. KO2s, specifically. I'm pretty pleased with the 3.69s. If I were going to go up to 35", I'd want 4.10s.

3.69 and 33" is just right, IMO.
 

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Even though you have taller gearing, that doesn't necessarily mean your MPG will go down. I think as long as you don't go too tall, it actually goes up as your not lugging the engine as much.

@BlackbirdSR71 where you will notice it the most is on mountain passes. No more hovering between 3rd & 4th gear trying to get to Snoqualmie
 

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I went from the 3.36 to 3.69 on 33" KO2. Mileage was maybe a hair better, but the truck came back to life. It was really sluggish with those heavy tires and gearing. Performance was a noticeable change.

Keep in mind, this was an auto. I think if you have a manual, you should be looking at 4.10s.
Bringing back an old thread, I know.

Brambleheart, that's the setup I'm thinking about. What do you mainly use your X for? I'm torn between 3.53 and 3.69. I've got a AT PRO-4X so mine stock are 3.36. I've got the 32" KO2 now but plan to go up to the 33" KO2 soon. I do mostly highway with a bit of medium-level off-roading on the weekends and road trips. I want an improved highway experience with just a bit more umph through the Colorado mountains.
 

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33's and 4.10's or 4.56's and 35's. You'd be wasting your money to do 3.69's. I've had them for years. They're great on and off road.
BTW @IM1RU, I know we always disagree on this, and I think I can finally shed some light why :)

With my 4.10s and 35s, I went to CO in mid-July. Loaded with me, my girlfriend, 2 weeks of camping gear, & two mountain bikes, the X was pretty stuffed. I drove through Durango, Telluride --> Imogen --> Ouray, past Gunnison, over pikes peak, & finally up into the Rockies & out through Denver.

I will definitely say that the elevation makes a HUGE difference. Man I the X was struggling, especially on the pass near Pike's Peak (I don't remember the name). I could have it FLOORED and I would barely maintain 55mph on a slight uphill. This was not my experience when leaving town and driving mountains back in WA (lower elevations) or when driving through some of the passes in Idaho.

So I can finally say, I'd agree with 4.10s and 33's if you live in a high-elevation state like UT or CO. If you are at lower elevations, I think you could probably get away with 3.69 if that is the experience you want.
 

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I will definitely say that the elevation makes a HUGE difference. Man I the X was struggling, especially on the pass near Pike's Peak (I don't remember the name).
Thank god for fuel injection. Imagine the good ole days where you'd have to stop and adjuster your carburetor, then stop again once you're out of the elevation.
 

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Mostly daily driver with some camping & wheeling on the weekends. I'm 99% non-highway, but for the highway driving I do, the 3.69s were definitely the way to go. I used to really have to get into the skinny pedal to get up to speed and to stay there. With the new gearing, she accelerates and cruises like stock.

The altitude makes a big difference too. I might have gotten away with the stock 3.36s at sea level, but not at mile high or higher.

Personally, I think the 3.56s would not be enough of an upgrade to justify the expense/effort of regearing. I'd go with the 3.69s.

Bringing back an old thread, I know.

Brambleheart, that's the setup I'm thinking about. What do you mainly use your X for? I'm torn between 3.53 and 3.69. I've got a AT PRO-4X so mine stock are 3.36. I've got the 32" KO2 now but plan to go up to the 33" KO2 soon. I do mostly highway with a bit of medium-level off-roading on the weekends and road trips. I want an improved highway experience with just a bit more umph through the Colorado mountains.
 

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Mostly daily driver with some camping & wheeling on the weekends. I'm 99% non-highway, but for the highway driving I do, the 3.69s were definitely the way to go. I used to really have to get into the skinny pedal to get up to speed and to stay there. With the new gearing, she accelerates and cruises like stock.

The altitude makes a big difference too. I might have gotten away with the stock 3.36s at sea level, but not at mile high or higher.

Personally, I think the 3.56s would not be enough of an upgrade to justify the expense/effort of regearing. I'd go with the 3.69s.
That makes sense to me. Thanks for responding! 🧟‍♂️
 

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Mostly daily driver with some camping & wheeling on the weekends. I'm 99% non-highway, but for the highway driving I do, the 3.69s were definitely the way to go. I used to really have to get into the skinny pedal to get up to speed and to stay there. With the new gearing, she accelerates and cruises like stock.

The altitude makes a big difference too. I might have gotten away with the stock 3.36s at sea level, but not at mile high or higher.

Personally, I think the 3.56s would not be enough of an upgrade to justify the expense/effort of regearing. I'd go with the 3.69s.
I just chatted with someone from Rugged Rocks, asking questions about their 3.69 package and they mentioned that the R180 can't accept 3.69 due to the carrier split? He mentioned that I would have to get a new carrier that will accept 3.69. Does this sound familiar to you? Did you have to do this or did you go the ARB locker route?

Edit: My R180 is from an AT and therefor isn't set up to accept 3.69 gears.
 

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The R180 is 3.69 gears for the 6 spd manual 2nd gens. Were they thinking the M205 making that statement? That one has no option for 3.69. I can’t upgrade to the M205 for TS unless I change to another ratio (4.10 typically). Closest is 3.73 and is borderline within safety margin for mismatched ratios I guess.


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I just chatted with someone from Rugged Rocks, asking questions about their 3.69 package and they mentioned that the R180 can't accept 3.69 due to the carrier split? He mentioned that I would have to get a new carrier that will accept 3.69. Does this sound familiar to you? Did you have to do this or did you go the ARB locker route?
Yeah, I replaced the entire diff with one with 3.69s from the factory. The carriers are different.
 

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So does that mean if I changed ratios with a factory 3.69 diff I have to changer everything out? Good info I wouldn’t have known without seeing this


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