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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 titan swapped Xterra with shims..
I blew out the rear drive shaft CV joint a few months ago, replaced it and moved on.
Now the replacement has blown as well. Is this a driveshaft angle problem - i'm running about 4" of lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You should be running at least 3 degree shims on the axle, pics will help.
I think I have 4 degrees but they might be 3 - I'll have to look.

Post a picture of the angle you driveshaft is at.

at 4” you probably need to look into changing the CV to a ujoint.

I have more lift than you, but I went with double cardan up top and single ujoint on the bottom. I highly recommend it, my drivetrain has never felt this smooth.
My continued research seems to say the same thing - is this something I should take to a driveshaft shop or is there an out of the box solution.
I saw 4x4parts.com had a complete setup but it was 900 bucks.

I have attached some pics - i also noticed some grease and shiny metal at the front yoke.

134917




134918




134919
 

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The pics look like you have negative pinion angle. Which is really bad if it's true. The angle of the pinion on the that CV join should be as close to zero (or 90 deg from the driveshaft angle) as you can get, and still be on the positive side.

Before you start changing parts measure the angle.
 

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I think you need a smaller shim. If that doesn't work look into a new DS. I had to have a machine shop make the slip yoke flange. couldn't find anybody selling anything out of the box.

Your axle will move up a little during acceleration. In the stock set up you want the axle slightly under perfectly in line with the DS when at rest, that way when you get on it it will be in line.

With your set-up you are already too high at rest, and it only gets worse under load. The stock CV isn't great for big angles.

EDIT: IM1RU beat me to it. Here's a picture I found of what it should look like. Personally I'd go about 1 degree lower than that just to allow for some axle warp like I mentioned in my 2nd paragraph.
134922
 

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I have 6 degrees of change welded into my 6" lift SOA conversion. It puts me right at about zero angle, plus or minus, depending on how I am loaded. Tom Woods Double Cardan 1310 DS.
 

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I am by no means anywhere close to an expert. But 4 vs 3 degree shim, I don't think, will chance the look of that picture of the negative angle you have...but its possible the moment arm will cause it to change more than I think. First knee jerk was 'does he have shim in backwards'...as I'd simply put 'thick' part to rear as I'd never thought about it...but realize on ours, that thick part goes to front of axle. I assume its right, though...but that was my knee jerk. Thag angle looks really bad to me and its possible 1 degree will make a difference. I'd buy a cheap angle gauge and start working through measurements before plunking down a bunch of money for another driveshaft system.
 

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Yeah you have WAY too much angle on that CV. Are the shims angling the pinion up or down? Its possible you've put the shims in the wrong way causing it to run broken back. With 4" lift and 3 degree shims it shouldn't look this severe imo. Also, fix this quickly, it looks like it might be causing your pinion seal to weep which is an indication of potentially other larger issues. Use your iphone and angle pro to measure pinion angle, drive shaft and slip yoke and you should be able to figure out how much angle you will need to resolve the issue. Worst case scenario is that you need to go to a double cardan custom shaft.
 

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No , they're installed the right way. Just best to really measure what you need. shackles, type of leaf pack, these things all effect pinion angle in different ways, so one dudes 4" lift isnt the same as someone else. You obviously need less shim than you have.
Yup, i took a look at his photos and it's in the right way for sure. Maybe running no shim and just on the leaf's will resolve your issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yup, i took a look at his photos and it's in the right way for sure. Maybe running no shim and just on the leaf's will resolve your issue.
I did start with no shims - and i had a usual vibration - it wasn't terrible but definitely noticeable.
 

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I did start with no shims - and i had a usual vibration - it wasn't terrible but definitely noticeable.
With no shim was the pinion still slightly angled up? Under acceleration, the pinion angle will increase slightly due to the torque/axle wrap effect. You actually may need to flip the shim the other direction so fat end is towards the back then to get the pinion angle even further down if that makes sense. No one right way to do it i guess, but you do want that drive shaft to be nearly straight into the diff housing (no angle) to prevent the vibrations.
 
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