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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a used 2014 Xterra "X" model at a Nissan dealer with 48k 3 months ago. The vehicle seemed well maintained, plenty of oil changes and even transmission fluid changes. I purchased a " extended warranty" at the dealer and went my way.

I've had a persistent idle vibration which happens from P to D when moving the gear selector, even at idle at stop lights. I've been playing the dealership game where I take it in for service they tell me " Normal, could not duplicate customer concern, compared to another year Xterra of same Mileage and year". Ha. My last visit they claimed to check for codes " checked pending PIDs and codes, ok at this time" Argued with the service adviser and manager and was sent on my way.

I even cleaned my throttle body, with cleaner was dirty but didnt resolve the issue.

This morning, I used my Bluetooth OBD II Scan Tool. Torque Pro to be exact and found in " mode-6" or pending codes I have a failed " Catalyst bank 1, sensor 1" code pending. My symptoms are sluggish acceleration now, takes a bit longer for the vehicle to heat up and that vibration/ resonance at idle. Keep in mind I have no CEL present or even able to bring one up. I've had the infamous " P0420" code on my old 05 Offroad. Has Nissan never resolved this issue? For fucksake...

Also, I read a horror story where a guy was in a similar situation and he ended up having honeycomb material sucked back into his engine. Dealer had to replace it! This all seems unreal to me. The dealerships are either incompetent or concealing something.

Here is a screenshot below of my findings.
123032
 

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A rattle sound from your exhaust can be as simple as a heat shield on your exhaust becoming loose and making noise. Luckily, a large stainless steel hose clamp can fix this problem.

However, if you suspect a bad catalytic converter, I would start by watching this video.

Harbor Freight is a good resource for a cheap infrared temperature checker.

As a dealership, I would hope they understand a cat replacement is cheaper than a new engine.

 

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I would describe it a "shudder" that'll vibrate the interior on a cold morning. It's blantly obvious. Of course when I drive to the dealer it becomes less apparent as it warms up. Still noticeable.

If it's intake leak, easy fix. I just hope the damage isn't done. I think Nissan programmed the VQ40DE with a faulty map, there's too many instances of cats dying before 100k to not link the issue together.

I remember on my 05 Xterra, I changed the plugs right before my cats died. Thought at the time, perhaps I installed them or a gap was bad. Now I found myself in almost similar circumstances years later. I haven't touched the plugs on my new rig. Just oil changes and cleaned my throttle body. Figured plugs were waste, "they're good for 100k".
 

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Plugs and coils can be good for 100K miles, but they can also fail prematurely.
Without a doubt, there is nothing like raw fuel to soon put an end to a good converter.

Keep us updated in regards to what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Plugs and coils can be good for 100K miles, but they can also fail prematurely.
Without a doubt, there is nothing like raw fuel to soon put an end to a good converter.

Keep us updated in regards to what you find.
Will do! I did find another code this morning. " EVAP monitor leak" a value of > 0.24 will store a pending PID code, this could indicate a leak somewhere. But the test is supposed to be performed with full tank of guess. I had about a quarter of fuel in my tank. Need to re-confirm. Supposedly that could indicate a air leak somewhere.

I sent an email off the dealer where I purchased the vehicle. Waiting to hear back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Last dealer where I took it in for service sent me this email. " I looked over the technician's notes from both visits and I do not see any record of a current active code/check engine light on. Before my technicians can make any repair recommendations, they need to have current/active codes in the sytem (check engine light on). Factory warranties, as well as aftermarket warranties, also require this before they will even start a claim. Pending codes mean that the vehicle picked up something unusal but has not seen it again so that’s why it stayed in pending. The fact that you stated you believe this to be the root of your issue since your June 14th, 2019 visit but it has been over 2 months with no active check engine light shows that it may not. If the ECM sees an active failure in either the O2 sensor or Cat system enough times, it will activate the check engine light. Factory and aftermarket warranties WILL require an active failure code/check engine light on before they will approve either of those items. Please feel free to contact us if/once the check engine light comes on so we can proceed with the required diagnosis procedure. Until then, let me know if you have any further questions. Thank you "

I've seen plenty of threads where a P0420 code was never triggered and the cats were clogged. The classic symptom for the owner was " loss of power, poor idle" and it seems like most never had a CEL triggered at all, while some did. Looks like this dealer isn't going to tackle the issue until it becomes a major problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I took it back to the original dealer I bought it from. They didn't acknowledge the pending PID code " Were not seeing that on our scantool" I sent them the screen shot from Torque. They still claimed they couldn't see it. I asked they performed the idle-relearn, that seemed to wake up the throttle response and lack a power. However, the car still vibrates on a cold start. The only comment they made was " bring it back if the CEL comes on, you're still covered under Federal Warranty for the cats". GAHH!!! I argued with them that might aswell changed them out now before it becomes a problem. So far two dealers refuse to change them out unless it has a obvious CEL.

I'm going to reset my ECU and see if the computer does a " re-test" of all the self system checks and see if it'll trigger a CEL for " P0420". I read if a fault is pending or mode-6 is found it'll " freeze itself" and stop all other tests.

WTF Nissan!!! Still having Cat issues. Has anyone ever figured why they fail so often? Im only at 57k lol
 

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Besides your cat code... sounds maybe like your engine mounts are worn? The Xs mounts are known to wear fast and give vibes. It's a pretty easy test. Put vehicle in drive. hold the brake hard and bop the gas. try also in reverse. If it torques , they're bad. Either video it or have 2 people doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The dealer claimed to have inspected the trans mount. Everything looked ok, not sure about the engine mounts. I'll have to test that out myself.

By " torque" do you mean movement?
 

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That is not a trouble code. Based on that screen shot it looks like monitor that hasn't passed or failed yet.

Any time you reset codes or disconnect the battery all the monitors have to test and pass.

Put the scanner down, you are finding problems that don't exist and convincing yourself of problems that don't exist. Takes longer to heat up? You're getting into your head.
 

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That is not a trouble code. Based on that screen shot it looks like monitor that hasn't passed or failed yet.

Any time you reset codes or disconnect the battery all the monitors have to test and pass.

Put the scanner down, you are finding problems that don't exist and convincing yourself of problems that don't exist. Takes longer to heat up? You're getting into your head.

This is the most uninformed post I've read on here. What you're referring to is " emissions monitors" or " ready tests" those tests above are NOT those. Above is called " mode 6" or pending PID's. I'm going to wipe the ECU and let the computer re-do the self tests and see if it trips any codes. Mode-6 uses " freeze frame" when it detects a issue and stops all other testing. If you look at the min and max values, I suspect those will trigger a CEL when it has reached a threshold.
 

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This is the most uninformed post I've read on here. What you're referring to is " emissions monitors" or " ready tests" those tests above are NOT those. Above is called " mode 6" or pending PID's. I'm going to wipe the ECU and let the computer re-do the self tests and see if it trips any codes. Mode-6 uses " freeze frame" when it detects a issue and stops all other testing. If you look at the min and max values, I suspect those will trigger a CEL when it has reached a threshold.
I pulled the instructions and overview of the app. It says that vehicle test results screen is a mixture of Mode 6 and a Monitor Readiness screen. Basically it was using Mode 6 data to compile the pass/ fail/ incomplete monitors. If you don't have a CEL, then the monitor is passed or incomplete. The dealer is not going to replace a Cat without a CEL. They can't go on a customer's diagnosis or tools. Most dealers look for reasons to do warranty work. They get paid by the factory. It's not coming out of their pockets. A lot of people think dealers try to shun warranty work. Sometimes the profit is less but it's still income. A lot of people here have had catalytic failures due to a misfire. I had one die. Had a coil die on the way home from work. I drove it straight home and didn't drive it again until I got a coil. Too late. Hindsight I knew what cylinder, I should of unplugged the injector too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
They are " mode 6" or pending PID's. I'm going to wipe the ECU and let the computer re-do the self tests and see if it trips any co
This is the most uninformed post I've read on here. What you're referring to is " emissions monitors" or " ready tests" those tests above are NOT those. Above is called " mo
I pulled the instructions and overview of the app. It says that vehicle test results screen is a mixture of Mode 6 and a Monitor Readiness screen. Basically it was using Mode 6 data to compile the pass/ fail/ incomplete monitors. If you don't have a CEL, then the monitor is passed or incomplete. The dealer is not going to replace a Cat without a CEL. They can't go on a customer's diagnosis or tools. Most dealers look for reasons to do warranty work. They get paid by the factory. It's not coming out of their pockets. A lot of people think dealers try to shun warranty work. Sometimes the profit is less but it's still income. A lot of people here have had catalytic failures due to a misfire. I had one die. Had a coil die on the way home from work. I drove it straight home and didn't drive it again until I got a coil. Too late. Hindsight I knew what cylinder, I should of unplugged the injector too.
That is correct. That is pretty much a spot on explanation. I apologize for making that rude remark earlier. I've had a older 05 Xterra that had clogged/bad cats with the classic P0430 code about 4-5 years ago. left with me a sour taste in my mouth.. That vehicle exhibited almost the same behavior, odd vibrations and reduced power. Torque OBD II scanners were just coming out in their infancy. To echo what you wrote about the dealerships, the dealer above said what you wrote. They need a ' CEL' to approve the work, which is why they haven't replaced/touched anything yet of diagnostic work.


Here is my old thread: Hit by lighting twice? haha :unsure:(n)



"Right now I have a noticeable vibration at idle, according to torque it's idling at 627 RPM's or so "
 

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Besides your cat code... sounds maybe like your engine mounts are worn? The Xs mounts are known to wear fast and give vibes. It's a pretty easy test. Put vehicle in drive. hold the brake hard and bop the gas. try also in reverse. If it torques , they're bad. Either video it or have 2 people doing it.
I have a vibration at idle. No CEL and it runs great. Tried Idle Air Volume Learning and throttle body cleaner but no change. Do you think its motor mounts?

I used a vice to clamp my phone on the hood so the vibration might be a little amplified by the phone moving the same time the engine vibrates. I start the engine, place in drive, rev to ~2500 and then place in park and shut off. I think I have an exhaust leak somewhere causing a slight badass sound to the rev. Let me know if I should be concerned. Oh yeah, 100% stock with fresh timing chains.


Thanks for any advice and sorry to threadsteal ;)
 
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