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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


(Thanks to those that came before, especially packpride85 from TheNewX.org. I wouldn't have done this project without your pioneering the work.)
(This post is copied from my blog: 2013-2015 Xterra Pro-4X Atoto Stereo Head Unit Upgrade with Wiring Harness Chart)

I have a 2014 Nissan Xterra Pro-4x with 5.8 display, navigation and Rockford Fosgate powered audio system including an amplifier, enclosed subwoofer and 9 speakers and this post should apply to the 2013-2015 Xterra Pro-4X. (It should also apply to the 2013-2021 Frontier Pro-4X and SL with the Rockford Fosgate system and 10 speakers)

Why I upgraded the OEM head unit and only the head unit
The Rockford Fosgate system includes a well liked 380W DSP amplifier. The system also has Rockford Fosgate’s “PUNCH bass tuning” (I found this “Punch tuning” overemphasized the bass and was happy to find this goes away with a new head unit). The Xterra has 7 speaker channels and 9 speakers (I think the Frontier has an extra subwoofer speaker for 10 total speakers). The speakers are fairly nice and designed to mate with the Rockford Fosgate amplifier. Note that if you want to upgrade the speakers or amp you will likely have to upgrade both at the same time, as they are a low impedance (2 ohm) system and will likely not work properly unless they are matched.

I was pleased with the OEM sound (after turning down the over-punched bass) but I was unhappy with the navigation and other music apps or lack thereof. After a bit of research I found that while many name brand units offer Android Auto or Apple CarPlay, they don’t allow you to run apps on the head unit itself. If you want to run a mapping application or even google maps on the head unit itself, you need an Android head unit.

I also wanted to retain the Rockford Fosgate amplifier, subwoofer, speakers and all of the OEM features: steering wheel controls, backup camera that automatically comes on in reverse, USB and AUX in the console between the seats, GPS antenna, and the FM antenna.

After a bunch of research on head units, I chose the Atoto S8 Ultra Gen 2.



This unit is readily available on Amazon in the USA and has many users here. There are other good units, like the Joying, that seem preferred in other countries.

The Atoto S8 Ultra Gen 2 (S8G2A78UL-N) features a 7 Inch QLED display that fits well in the dash, Android in-Dash Navigation (no phone required), Wireless CarPlay & Wireless Android Auto, Dual BT w/aptX HD, Gesture Operation, Rear View Camera, a built-in 4G Cellular Modem, 4G RAM and 64G Flash Storage.

This is an Android head unit, meaning it actually runs Android, just like a tablet or phone. It can also do wireless Android Auto and wireless Apple Carplay. Now, I think most people don't need a full blown Android head unit like this. The benefit of it is that you don't need a phone connected to the unit to run any apps. And the unit can run apps like Torque for OBD, or a music app to manage a large music library on an attached USB drive. You can play YouTube, etc. You can also run an off-road mapping app right on the head unit. (But note that while the unit has a very good GPS function, it does not include a compass or accelerometer, so mapping functions can show some confusion when moving slowly and backing up and things like that.) I really wanted a unit like this so my phone was not necessary.

I’m not going to detail all the steps to install the Atoto head unit, just some of the details that I found important.

First let me address a few concerns:

Current drain: I heard some complaints about excessive current drain from the head unit. I bench tested mine before installing it, and about a minute after turning off the ignition the current drain fell to a very reasonable 11mA. I suspect some installers may not configure the ACC wiring correctly. It is important to connect the constant 12 power to the proper input and the ACC wire to the ACC wire from the truck. The ACC wire tells the head unit the truck is off, and that it should turn off soon. Do not wire the ACC to a constant 12V source.

Line level Outputs: I also used the “line level” RCA connector outputs from the Atoto head unit to connect to the OEM Rockford Fosgate amp. I was concerned that this might not include the low frequencies the Amp would need to synthesize the proper signal for the subwoofer. But this was not a problem, the Atoto head unit provides full range signals to the left and right line level output channels and the Rockford Fosgate amp properly sent the necessary signal to the subwoofer.

Is a “Line Out Converter” needed? Some have used a device called a “Line Out Converter” or LOC so they could use the Atoto head unit’s speaker level outputs and reduce those signals with the LOC for the amplifier. I did some testing and the signals direct from the Atoto’s RCA line level outputs seem well matched to the Rockford Fosgate amplifier. No “Line Out Converter” is needed.

Popping sounds from the speakers at turn on? I have not experienced that. I was careful to properly connect the Constant +12V, ACC and "amp turn on" connections to their respective connections. I suspect some who experience popping sounds at turn on do not have the "amp turn on" signal properly connected from the head unit.

System Update
The first thing I did was "bench test" my unit to makle sure everything worked properly. And then I updated the software on the unit. The latest update was required for Wireless Android Auto to work.


"Secret" Atoto Upgrade Site: ATOTO Note this site seems to be in a "phone" web format.

The Wiring Harness
Making the wiring harness is the hardest part of the project. You remove the OEM radio and unplug all the connectors on the back of it. Then you plug adapters into those harness so you can connect the existing vehicle wiring to the new head unit.

Here are the harnesses and connectors that I used:
  1. Metra 70-7552 Radio Wiring Harness For Nissan 2007-Up/Select Subaru 2008-Up
  2. CESS-064-1f Speaker Cables to RCA Plugs Adapter, 2-Channel (1 Foot) (2 needed)
  3. Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles,Black
  4. Axxess AXNISUSB2 Fits Nissan USB Adaptor Retain OE USB Retention Metra Harness
  5. Axxess AXBUCS-NI246V Back Up Camera Ret Harness w/ SWC for select Nissan 2011-Up (SWC connection not used for this vehicle)
  6. aide Electronic GSM Antenna Extension Cable Fakra D Female to SMA Male Connector pigital Cable RG174 20cm (15cm)
  7. onelinkmore SMA Female to Female Barrel Adapter Antenna Jack Adapter for Antennas Wireless LAN Devices Coaxial Cable Pack of 2
  8. Eightwood Fakra C Plug to SMA Plug Male Car GPS Antenna Cable 6 inch for Vehicle GPS Navigation Radio Stereo Head Unit GPS Receiver
I made a chart showing to connect the Atoto head unit harness and back panel connectors to these harnesses.You read this chart across the rows, for example: On the Atoto Harness, pin 13, the pink wire connects to the AXBUCS-NI246V harness's pin 28 green/purple wire.



Here is a picture of the completed harness. I used a Wirefly heat shrink butt connectors and the appropriate Wirefly crimper.



Here is the pair of cables and barrel connector I used to make an adapter to connect the Atoto GPS connector to the Nissan's GPS connector:


Here are all the harnesses plugged into the Nissan truck's harness. I have used a towel to protect the dash and center console from scratches.


I didn't want the cables to rattle in the dash, so I wrapped them with soft foam adhesive weatherstripping:



Mounting brackets for the head unit
The Atoto 7" head unit is requires and adapter to fit properly in the dash. I tried two versions.

Below, on the left is the Metra95-7619 Car Stereo Installation Dash Kit for 2013-Up Nissan Frontier/Titan/Xterra, (Black)It did fit well, but will need thin large washers under the screws into the plastic. Also the plastic brackets provide no inherent chassis ground. And finally, I did not like how it framed the Atoto screen, the sides are deep and square.

On the right is the Ai NDK780 2011-2014 Nissan Multi Dash Kit Single ISO , Black attached to the factoru metal bracket and the Atoto radio.



The NDK780 trim kit comes in 3 pieces that snap together. I trimmed it a bit so the pieces fit together better and then used superglue to assemble them permanently.



Unfortunately the neither the holes in this trim piece nor in the Nissan factory bracket line up properly with the side winds that come with the Atoto radio. I slotted the hole in the NDK780 plastic trim as shown below.



And I slotted the holes in the factory Nissan brackets as well. I have marked those with red circles on the bracket below. It is necessary to do this to both brackets.



And here is the Atoto radio installed in the dask panel using the Atoto side wings, the factory metal brackets and the NDK780 trim kit:



Installed!

And then I put the truck back together... and it looks great!


In the picture above you can see the trim kit has beveled edges on the left and right side: the dash slopes in to the face of the display. This is why I preferred this trim kit. The other Metra trim kit has sides that are square to the display and does not have these sloped sides.

Output Level Testing
Before I removed the original Rockford Fosgate head unit, I ran it through a series of tests with pink noise and a few test tones. I wanted to see what levels the unit put out through each channel at different volume settings. I chose to test at 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 volume settings for most of the tests.

Interestingly, the stock volume seemed biased be louder from the right speakers... this is probably to make the sound more symmetrical for the driver.

I ran the same tests with the Atoto unit. Note the Atoto default has the loudness set on and I tested it that way. I also ran a few of the tests with the Loudness set off, that data is in [x]. It did not seem to make a significant difference.

I interpret these results to show that using the Atoto RCA connector line level outputs with the original Nissan Rockford Fosgate amp is perfectly appropriate.



Other Notes
Wireless Android Auto works fine! However, I prefer to disable that so that I am using the built in Android on the Atoto. This allows me to more easily use the various apps on the head unit.

The backup camera was too dim at first, but was fine after Iturned up brightness and adjusted lines in the app, just touch the screen while in backup mode to see the settings screen.

The radio volume too loud compared to the other sources. I found that it was boosted in the secret* settings and I lowered it to normal.

You may need to install a particular "Files" app for some apps to work properly. For instance some Android music players may not be able to find music on an external USB drive. You need to install the proper DocumentsUI for Android 10. Without it you can't write to an external USB drive with other file managers. That is because the documentsUI is missing. Install it, open it once and afterwards your file managers can use it to get access.

Note: this installs a "different" Files app from the one currently on the google store. I'd suggest removing the current/new "Files by Google" app if you install this one via DocumentsUI.

*Secret Settings & Password
In case don't know this already, you can access the secret OEM settings on the ATOTO S8 unit this way:

Settings > System, click this option four times continually >input 3368, you will enter into the secret OEM Settings.

Three small problems I had to solve after the Installation
I think these were all caused by doing some testing in the truck without all the dash wiring connected or by leaving the truck battery disconnected for a couple days.
  1. I had an engine warning light. I disconnected the battery for an hour and drove the truck again and the engine warning light was off.
  2. the airbag warning light was on. This was probably caused by testing the head unit in the car with the passenger airbag light disconnected. I followed these directions to clear the airbag warning light.
  3. My OBD reader showed a P0603 (ICM Keep Alive Memory Error). I have read this error code comes from having the battery disconnected for an extended time. This is a “permanent” error code, which just means it will persist until the vehicle has been driven enough to determine nothing is wrong. Generally this will go away after some days of driving, but I just took a 30 mile drive with a bunch of stops and it went away. Technically, you have to complete some specific driving patterns to make the code clear. One that I read was to start the vehicle, idle more than 30 seconds, drive more than 5 minutes at highway speeds, stop and idle another 30 seconds before turning the truck off. But it can apparently be more complicated than that.
Screen Protector
I wanted a screen protector as I intend to off road in the desert and sand gets everywhere....
The ones that came with the unit were horrible, but I found some I really like on AliExpress. These are 9H tempered glass:
4.74US $ 5% OFF|Universal 7" Tempered Glass Screen Protector Film For Car Radio Gps Navigation Dvd Stereo Radio - Interior Mouldings - AliExpress I ordered the 153x85mm size. These leave a bit of room on each edge, about 1 mm. This allows for easier installation and removal.
Install was VERY easy compared to those silly plastic ones.
You can see the edge of the protector and the gap it leaves in the picture below.




Alternate Parts

I did not use these, but they are available. Shortcomings that I noticed are listed.
 

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Excellent information and I very much appreciate you sharing this. You helped me tremendously with my install. I'll probably end up doing a couple more tweaks, but I just finished installing an Atoto S8 Standard in my 2013 Pro 4X. I used the "upgraded" main connector harness, and the connector shell requires some extra force to fit. If also used a Scosche SLC4 line balancer, which added a lot of hassle for figuring out how and where to secure it. I ended up using one of the slotted steel non-DIN mounting brackets that come with the Atoto head unit. It became an L-bracket so I could secure the balancer with industrial double stick and zip ties. In hindsight, I'd have used a Metra harness with RCA connectors and transplanted wires and pins so it could interface to the SW controls.

I didn't adapt to use the OEM GPS antenna. Do you get GLONASS satellites via the factory antenna? Right now I'm using the Atoto GPS antenna and get GPS and GNSS satellites.

I couldn't find info on using the OEM Bluetooth mic, so I'm using the one provided with the head unit. On my S8 model, the built in mic is poor. The wired mic is better.

The low res OEM backup camera looks especially bad on the new larger display. I'm using via the same Axxess retention harness you used. Since it's hardwired to only get power when getting a reverse signal, I can't use the back up camera app to customize the view with customized marker lines. I ran across an alternative way to wire it so it could be accessed in other gearshift positions, but I'd want to put that headache toward integrating a better camera, if possible. When I'm pulling a trailer, it would be nice to have rear camera view available while on the move. But I'd want to put a new camera in the same "wart" as the OEM camera if possible.

I gather that Bluetooth Android Auto is relatively new for the S8 series. The capability came with a firmware update I installed on mine. I didn't know the secret settings existed, so I'll have to explore. Thanks for that tip!

All-in-all, I'm very happy to ditch the old Bosch head unit and gain many useful features and functions.

I know how much work you put into assembling this post and providing a clear, easy-to-follow narrative. Thank you for your time and generosity!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn't adapt to use the OEM GPS antenna. Do you get GLONASS satellites via the factory antenna?
Yes. Works great, better reception than my phone in the truck.

I couldn't find info on using the OEM Bluetooth mic, so I'm using the one provided with the head unit. On my S8 model, the built in mic is poor. The wired mic is better.
From my research, attempting to wire to the Nissan mic in the ceiling console would be a project. The ceiling mic appears to be powered, so you have to get power to it somehow. And apparently you also need to snip a wire to disconnect the internal Atoto mic. Some people also have desoldered the internal mic and soldered the wires to the external mic there. Seems like a big project.

The low res OEM backup camera looks especially bad on the new larger display. I'm using via the same Axxess retention harness you used. Since it's hardwired to only get power when getting a reverse signal, I can't use the back up camera app to customize the view with customized marker lines. I ran across an alternative way to wire it so it could be accessed in other gearshift positions, but I'd want to put that headache toward integrating a better camera, if possible. When I'm pulling a trailer, it would be nice to have rear camera view available while on the move. But I'd want to put a new camera in the same "wart" as the OEM camera if possible.
I would like to try the Atoto special hi res backup camera... I'm also wondering if I could make it fit in the stock Nissan housing on the rear hatch. There are directions in the Atoto manual to make the rear camera always available too!
 

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Wow you definitely did the complete s8 install even more than me ha. Some things I wish I had done:

1. Used the pre amp outputs. I have the LOC which works fine but takes up space behind the dash.

2. Retaining factory GPS. I looked everywhere for an adapter but couldn’t find one. Ended up using the atoto gps. Never thought of the barrel connector method you did. Props on that one.

3. I used the scosche backup cam adapter with no aux audio. I never used the aux in but nice to know it can be retained with the harness you used.

I also toyed with the idea of trying to upgrade the oem backup cam to the atoto. Maybe some day one of us will get around to it lol.

I did some research on the oem mic retention. I don’t believe the external mic power from the atoto matches the oem voltage. I’ve made many calls using CarPlay with the built in mic and never had any issues so probably won’t bother with external.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow you definitely did the complete s8 install even more than me ha. Some things I wish I had done:

1. Used the pre amp outputs. I have the LOC which works fine but takes up space behind the dash.

2. Retaining factory GPS. I looked everywhere for an adapter but couldn’t find one. Ended up using the atoto gps. Never thought of the barrel connector method you did. Props on that one.

3. I used the scosche backup cam adapter with no aux audio. I never used the aux in but nice to know it can be retained with the harness you used.

I also toyed with the idea of trying to upgrade the oem backup cam to the atoto. Maybe some day one of us will get around to it lol.

I did some research on the oem mic retention. I don’t believe the external mic power from the atoto matches the oem voltage. I’ve made many calls using CarPlay with the built in mic and never had any issues so probably won’t bother with external.
Again, thanks for pioneering the project! I wouldn't have done it without seeing your effort first.
On the GPS, identifying the Atoto connector was the hard part for me. I wasn't familiar with those style connectors.
 

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Good info. I'm finding myself in the same boat. I'm content with the RF system and don't want to bother replacing the factory amp and speakers, but I want modern head unit features. Tempted to give this a try even though I'm no good with car electronics/audio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Spend a few extra bucks and buy the updated Metra harness. https://www.amazon.com/Headunit-Steering-Compatible-2007-2019-Upgraded/dp/B07S9J952H/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1M7V8DL5ORZ4W&keywords=metra+70-7552&qid=1656171686&s=electronics&sprefix=metra,electronics,100&sr=1-4

THis ones has the SWC wires. Luckily for 2014 and 2015 RF systems, you can wire the SWC directly. Saves a little space and takes less time to wire everything up.
As I noted near the bottom of my original post that harness is NOT made by Metra, and has the VSS vehicle speed sensor wire in wrong place (but is unused anyway). It also some unnecessary extra wire splits. I recommend the actual Metra harness instead: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXED54/

If you are curious, you can compare the pinout of two harnesses here, scroll down to posts 3 & 4. Both harnesses have the SWC wiring.
 

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As I noted near the bottom of my original post that harness is NOT made by Metra, and has the VSS vehicle speed sensor wire in wrong place (but is unused anyway). It also some unnecessary extra wire splits. I recommend the actual Metra harness instead: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXED54/

If you are curious, you can compare the pinout of two harnesses here, scroll down to posts 3 & 4. Both harnesses have the SWC wiring.

Well this is the one I purchased for my Atoto S8 and it works great. For a few extra bucks, it's worth it for people who don't want to push the pins and wires themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well this is the one I purchased for my Atoto S8 and it works great. For a few extra bucks, it's worth it for people who don't want to push the pins and wires themselves.
There is no difference in which pins are wired between the harnesses, except that the current Metra actually has the VSS wire on the correct pin and the eBay "upgraded" harness does not. The supposedly "upgraded" harness really isn't. I have heard that once upon a time old Metra harnesses lacked all the wiring, but that is no longer true.
Midd, please go look at the whole thread here where I explain it in detail with pictures:
 

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Looking for some stereo advice. I just installed the new Sony xav-ax6000 from Crutchfield with all their recommended installation options with the stock RF amp and sub. Using the LOC box they recommended, the bass and everything basically is too quiet even with the LOC cranked all the way up. Also, the sub is working but doesn't hit like it used to and turning up the bass makes all the other speakers sound like crap. So I assume the amp is no longer filtering the bass out for the sub. I tried going without the LOC but it's crazy loud and doesn't sound as clear. The Sony does have a Sub out RCA but it isn't being used with the LOC. I'd like something in between that puts the bass and loudness back how it was when stock but also sounds clearer. Any suggestions?? I'm open to damn near anything. Keeping the stock amp and sub would be nice but I'm open to replacing them if I have to as long as I can reuse some or all the the stock wiring.

2015 P4X
Parts list
Metra 40-NI12 Antenna Adapter
Metra 95-7619 Dash Kit
CRUX CS-LOC1 Line Output Converter
iDatalink Maestro RR Interface Module
iDatalink HRN-HRR-N1
iDatalink ACC-HU-SON1
iDatalink ADS-CBL4BS

Thanks guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm guessing you are using the Sony speaker outputs.
I'd remove the LOC, and run THE PREOUTS direct to the RF amp. (Be sure you use the pre-outs and not the speaker level outputs, which would be way too loud.) Do the preouts from the Sony supply full spectrum signal to L and R channel? As long as they do, I'd just play with the equalizer.
As for it not having enough bass, IMO the RF system over emphasizes the bass... So maybe to just need to get a bit used too it?
 

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Thank you!! That made a big difference. Why didn't I think of that? Lol. Haven't installed a radio since the 90s. There's a little pop when changing the source to radio but I can deal with that. Sounds much better and is manageably loud. Thanks again! You da man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@VintageX - thanks for this wonderful write-up. Would you happen to know what, if anything, is different with the 2012 PRO-4X model?
Sorry, at this point I don't clearly remember the differences... I actually think that although they look similar the plastic dash pieces are different? The electronics might all be the same, especially if the head unit, amplifier and speaker configs are identical... Best to google some pictures.
See this guys comments, although I don't think it is for a Rockford Fosgate system...
 

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@VintageX - thanks for this wonderful write-up. Would you happen to know what, if anything, is different with the 2012 PRO-4X model?
You’ll need to pull up the AV section of the 2012 and 2013 service manuals. There are subtle differences between base and premium stereos just within the same years. I’m pretty sure the pre 2013 stereos had an external Bluetooth module that needs a special bypass plug if you switch to aftermarket vs 2013-2015 where it was built into the nav unit. Possibly some differences in the connectors on the back.
 
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