$5 Amazon lights (so $1 each), 3/4" LEDs, hard orange plastic going into rubber grommet, 3/4" holes in the air dam.
$5 each Oznium lights, 4 of the 11mm in the middle, and 4 of the 6mm in the side grill (1 shows in each) -- hard to fit the 11mm, not enough room, there was barely enough honeycomb backing for these, and they don't sit flush, except for the middle
$30 Oznium remote control 18" light bar (at least it's waterproof, not crazy about the infrared remote that stops working when lights heat up)
The 6mm are hard to show in the pictures or see during the day, so good choice with 11mm!
Blue below is a master just for the 2 light next to it, SPOT an Driving (Driving not connected... no lights yet)
To use Spot and Driving light buttons, both the blue switch to the left, and the red switch (will be blue when back in stock) in the picture below (by gear shifter) must be on -- that is so the I can quickly turn on/off those lights with oncoming traffic gone/coming
Roof Lights are for roof rack lights, LED strip about twice 10 ft
left from it - blue light (will be red, same style) is for top and grille markers (red matches closer the orange marker color)
red light below -- was inverter1 button until I decided to redo my passenger seat buttons....... now needs a different use
future......... left right side lights under the wet box?
June 17, 2020
My passenger seat button controls 2020.
On the left is the "allow light buttons" button. Quick off/on way to control multiple (spot/driving) lights to be quickly switched based on oncoming traffic
On the right is:
Master for all below (16mm)
Master (16mm) for the following 4 buttons below it: GPS, cell-signal-booster, power-inverter-1 (laptop, fridge) and power-inverter-2 (work computer)..... then last 2 are AUX and Fridge DC
The ones with power signal are crazy bright at night... I already replaced blue and green, red is out of stock at the moment.
The switch panel is thin plywood wrapped in carbon fiber car wrap (used on Xterra outside too)
When it brakes (because it's quite fragile) I will get a CNC plasma cut thinner than 14 gauge, paint it, than tape it to plywood like this, match holes, car wrap, and re-insert the lights
The light that is off and doesn't belong? Just plugging the hole that was a bad idea. The buttons don't have enough depth room to be present there in a line.
I like these lights! 16mm are small enough for up top or by the shifter, and 19mm feel nice, but for night time 16mm would be nicer so they are not so bright. But these are not bad at night, especially if I can push them down a bit more.
The thin plywood has pigtails and wires sticking in the back, then foam makes it not sink too deep, so the height adjustable.
Top lights can be all off (with a red button) if they get annoying on long drives (not used on the highway anyway).
And a towel could cover the seat buttons in worst case, but they are just pleasantly colorful so far!
The ones with power symbol (19mm, you can see the actual LEDs causing the light) are too annoying so they have to go. The top blue 16mm is not anything, but should be 16mm blue (once in stock) for consistency. This one is flush when off, and you push it in, all my other ones are raised when off, and pushed level (you're not sticking a finger into something)
the following is the retired buttons layout, from about 2007-2020
GPS up top
USB phone charger for passenger
master for all of the above (turn off all, or turn on again whatever used to be on)
(not shown are 2 more buttons, since retired, one for SPOT top lights, awkward place by driver feet) and Inverter2 (awkward place by passenger feet)