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Thread: How-to: Rogue Key for the Xterra Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-03-2019 07:17 PM
bbuhlman I decided to return the fob, couldn't make it work. May try this one next https://www.amazon.com/Discount-Keyl...ype=automotive

WooHoo! This one worked!
05-14-2019 11:24 PM
SledheadX
Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneLeaf View Post
Okay so I completed this today. Here were the steps:

  1. Bought this Rogue-style flip key fob on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR069O8. It's the one produced by KeylessOption as threads here and on ClubFrontier said that one works well. The key thing (pardon pun) is it must be compatible with the FCC ID printed on the back of your existing fobs, which is my case is FCC ID CWTWB1U821 (I think all Xterra are?). It is however missing the little Nissan emblem on the back. You can order that from elsewhere, it's Nissan part number 99820-EG00A. (I haven't ordered one yet.)
  2. Removed the transponder from the valet key (the key with the black Nissan logo instead of silver) by prying out the little transponder tray using tiny flat screwdriver blade and needlenose pliers.
  3. Popped open the Rogue key fob using a flat screwdriver in the slot.
  4. Pulled the existing transponder out of the Rogue fob and replaced it with the valet key transponder. Snap the fob halves back together. At this point the new Rogue fob will deactivate the truck's alarm and immobilizer, and could start it if the key were cut. I next paired ("registered/programmed") the Rogue keyless remote with the truck to verify it isn't defective before paying to have the key cut. Do that as follows...
  5. Make sure your driver door dinger wire is not disconnected under the instrument panel or this WILL NOT WORK!! (Took me an hour to figure that problem out!) If it is, reconnect it. You can disconnect it again when you're done.
  6. Get in truck and close all doors (they don't need to be locked).
  7. Fully insert and fully remove the new key in the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds to activate the "pairing mode". If you are successful, the hazard lights will flash a couple times. (Note, since I didn't have the Rogue key cut yet, I used the valet key to insert/remove, while holding the Rogue fob beside it so the receiver in the ignition could still sense the transducer in the Rogue fob.)
  8. Reinsert the key in the ignition and turn to ACC.
  9. Press any button on the fob. Hazards will flash again to indicate the keyless remote is successfully paired with the truck. (Note the truck can store 5 remotes, and bumps the oldest one off the list if you try to do more. Check all your fobs after to make sure they are still registered to lock/unlock the doors; if not, re-register those as well.)
  10. To exit the registration mode simply take the key out of the ignition and open the driver door.
  11. You can now test that the Rogue fob locks/unlocks the doors okay.
  12. Next I got the key cut at a local independent locksmith shop. No fuss, just curious questions. I explained what I was doing, that I moved the valet transducer to the Rogue fob, and actually took all my keys with me to show them just in case. Just gave me the usual disclaimer they couldn't guarantee the key because it's a customer-supplied blank. He checked the blank carefully though and said it looked okay. He cautioned sometimes the plating thickness on a blank is enough to make it not work. Said if it didn't work to come back and he could try to finesse the cut a little. Guy knew his stuff. In any case under 6 bucks for the cut and I was out of there. Key starts the truck perfectly (I didn't try it in the door lock cylinders).
Pretty pics attached.

To emphasize: if you re-use a transponder from an existing key like the valet key, you do NOT need to pay any dealer or other shop for any "programming". You only need the key blank cut, which should be well under 10 bucks. So your total cost is just the Rogue fob from Amazon and the key blank cut. Oh plus the silly little Nissan emblem if want to order it
I also did this flip fob mod perfectly using this fob on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And ordered the Nissan logo for the back from NissanPartsPlus.com. Cheapest I could find $8.69 after shipping

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...IDzyOl4s2DZv7p

I may even take them all in to get the extra transponder programmed and put into the valet key. depends on cost.
05-05-2019 10:53 PM
TeXas-Hooligan Wal-Mart cut my key for free so I’m all set. Great mod!
05-02-2019 09:10 PM
TeXas-Hooligan This worked perfectly for me! I took the transponder out of my old busted up key and placed it into the new Rogue key. Re-programmed my existing key fob and the new Rogue key and both work great. Still need to get the key cut, but for now I'm going to leave the Rogue key in my center console and use it when I'm out and about and don't want to carry the fob with my extra keys (house, work, etc) attached.
04-19-2019 02:25 PM
mfast10 The problem I am having, which is unexpected, is getting the key cut. I have programmed the fobs to lock/unlock my Xterra but I can't find anyone who can cut the key. The shape of the fob apparently gets in the way of shield of the key cutting machine and I can't find anyone close by to cut the key. So only one side of the key is cut.

Update.

Lowe's cut the key and I am good to go!
03-27-2019 03:27 PM
mfast10 This is great and I am going to try it. I received two keys from my dealer (my Xterra is a 2014) and one of them is bent (received from the dealer that way but did not notice it till weeks later) and one remote does not work so this gives me an excuse to tell my wife :-). One of my keys has the Nissan logo and the other does not so I assume it is the valet key but there is no way to get out the transponder without cutting the key apart. Both keys start the car but only one remote works. I looked on the back of the remotes and the one that does not work has a different FCC ID than the remote that does work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneLeaf View Post
Okay so I completed this today. Here were the steps:

  1. Bought this Rogue-style flip key fob on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR069O8. It's the one produced by KeylessOption as threads here and on ClubFrontier said that one works well. The key thing (pardon pun) is it must be compatible with the FCC ID printed on the back of your existing fobs, which is my case is FCC ID CWTWB1U821 (I think all Xterra are?). It is however missing the little Nissan emblem on the back. You can order that from elsewhere, it's Nissan part number 99820-EG00A. (I haven't ordered one yet.)
  2. Removed the transponder from the valet key (the key with the black Nissan logo instead of silver) by prying out the little transponder tray using tiny flat screwdriver blade and needlenose pliers.
  3. Popped open the Rogue key fob using a flat screwdriver in the slot.
  4. Pulled the existing transponder out of the Rogue fob and replaced it with the valet key transponder. Snap the fob halves back together. At this point the new Rogue fob will deactivate the truck's alarm and immobilizer, and could start it if the key were cut. I next paired ("registered/programmed") the Rogue keyless remote with the truck to verify it isn't defective before paying to have the key cut. Do that as follows...
  5. Make sure your driver door dinger wire is not disconnected under the instrument panel or this WILL NOT WORK!! (Took me an hour to figure that problem out!) If it is, reconnect it. You can disconnect it again when you're done.
  6. Get in truck and close all doors (they don't need to be locked).
  7. Fully insert and fully remove the new key in the ignition more than 6 times within 10 seconds to activate the "pairing mode". If you are successful, the hazard lights will flash a couple times. (Note, since I didn't have the Rogue key cut yet, I used the valet key to insert/remove, while holding the Rogue fob beside it so the receiver in the ignition could still sense the transducer in the Rogue fob.)
  8. Reinsert the key in the ignition and turn to ACC.
  9. Press any button on the fob. Hazards will flash again to indicate the keyless remote is successfully paired with the truck. (Note the truck can store 5 remotes, and bumps the oldest one off the list if you try to do more. Check all your fobs after to make sure they are still registered to lock/unlock the doors; if not, re-register those as well.)
  10. To exit the registration mode simply take the key out of the ignition and open the driver door.
  11. You can now test that the Rogue fob locks/unlocks the doors okay.
  12. Next I got the key cut at a local independent locksmith shop. No fuss, just curious questions. I explained what I was doing, that I moved the valet transducer to the Rogue fob, and actually took all my keys with me to show them just in case. Just gave me the usual disclaimer they couldn't guarantee the key because it's a customer-supplied blank. He checked the blank carefully though and said it looked okay. He cautioned sometimes the plating thickness on a blank is enough to make it not work. Said if it didn't work to come back and he could try to finesse the cut a little. Guy knew his stuff. In any case under 6 bucks for the cut and I was out of there. Key starts the truck perfectly (I didn't try it in the door lock cylinders).
Pretty pics attached.

To emphasize: if you re-use a transponder from an existing key like the valet key, you do NOT need to pay any dealer or other shop for any "programming". You only need the key blank cut, which should be well under 10 bucks. So your total cost is just the Rogue fob from Amazon and the key blank cut. Oh plus the silly little Nissan emblem if want to order it
03-21-2018 08:36 PM
LoneLeaf
Quote:
Originally Posted by 240addiction View Post
At the time I ordered I had a rogue and it felt like the OEM one but I never wiggled around the key portion itself. I will say that I noticed the other day the key portion that looks like it can be removed from flip portion with a pin is noticeably loose already.
Yes that little pin worked loose in my Keyless Option fob and jammed it so it wouldn't flip open. Pushed it back in and super-glued it and it's been working great ever since.

The quality seems reasonable for my needs. The plastic might be a bit softer than a true OEM. I finally got the Nissan emblem added to mine. Had to trim the fob plastic a hair so it would pop into place.

Panic button super sensitive tho!
03-21-2018 02:42 PM
ZheKing
Quote:
Originally Posted by mohawk View Post
I ordered my Rogue key last night off ebay. I'm thinking my X doesn't have the transponder in the oem key. I'll find out soon!
It does. It cost me $50 to get my transponder code copied onto the transponder in the rogue key by a local lock smith.
03-21-2018 01:14 PM
mohawk I ordered my Rogue key last night off ebay. I'm thinking my X doesn't have the transponder in the oem key. I'll find out soon!
02-11-2018 10:45 AM
TurboChris
Quote:
Originally Posted by 240addiction View Post
At the time I ordered I had a rogue and it felt like the OEM one but I never wiggled around the key portion itself. I will say that I noticed the other day the key portion that looks like it can be removed from flip portion with a pin is noticeably loose already.
As for the transponder just take a little tape and set it in there so it doesn’t wiggle around. The “OEM” key from this gen rogue does not have that same chip and I’m pretty sure and it’s built into the board.
Interesting. Well, then either the oems are made cheaper now or the cheap ones are made better. If the one I got is oem it PALES in quality to my 06 Audi one and my 1999 Mercedes one. I'm still gonna stop by the local dealer just to make sure.

When I say loose...I meant if the key was open...and I held the body inbetween my thumb and forefinger and flick it back and forth the key blade actually makes a clicking sound because it has so much play in it.

Yeah, if I were gonna keep it I'd just hot glue it in.
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