Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) - Reply to Topic
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 01:49 AM
kryter
last bash plate

Today 01:48 AM
kryter
moab is sticky

Today 12:53 AM
Zack.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinX View Post
Info on these?

I saw them mentioned in a couple places here and over on CF. Based on how they can compress to seal imperfect mating surfaces they sounded like the solution to my issue - product description and link below:



Remflex Exhaust Gaskets
#6005 or RF6005
Fits:
Many Mopar Applications/Universal pipe flange gasket
2-1/2" Pipe
2 Bolt Holes - One slotted
3-29/32" Bolt Hole Spacing
2/set
Suggested Torque: 20 Ft Lbs.




• Seals Warped Flanges:

Remflex exhaust gaskets come in a standard 1/8-inch thickness and are designed to crush 50%. This allows them to fill gaps in the flange surface up to 1/16-inch!

• Won’t Burn Out:

100% flexible graphite construction means Remflex gaskets are good for up to 3,000 degrees F—far exceeding that of any vehicle’s exhaust system temperature! 50% Crush

• No Re-Torquing Necessary:

Remflex exhaust gaskets rebound 30%, creating an optimum seal that eliminates the need to re-torque!

About Remflex

Remflex’s unique flexible graphite material has been proven for more than 30 years in industrial applications, where temperatures routinely exceed 2,000 degrees—day after day, week after week, year after year. Now, we’re bringing this technology to enthusiasts of all kinds to eliminate exhaust leaks for good! Whether you have an old pick-up that needs a manifold gasket, or a race car with custom-built headers, you can be assured that Remflex exhaust gaskets will work properly the first time, every time.

The Science

Remflex gaskets work because they solve the two main problems associated with sealing an exhaust flange: Warping, and gasket failure.

Warped Reality

A common misconception is that, if you spend a lot of money for high-quality headers with thick flanges, leaks will not be an issue. In truth, a thicker flange does help, but it can’t solve the problem of warping altogether. Constant thermal cycling, especially in high performance and/or high-load environments, causes warping of header flanges and cast iron exhaust manifolds--even the exhaust flange of the cylinder head itself.

Once the sealing surface is warped, leaks are imminent—and once there is a leak, pitting of the exhaust port sealing surface usually follows. A new set of average gaskets won’t fix the problem—but Remflex gaskets, with a 50% crush built in—can seal gaps as large as 1/16-inch. And unlike traditional gaskets, they won’t shrink, so they never require re-torquing.

If you can’t take the heat…

Curiously, the number one cause of exhaust gasket failure is heat—the very thing exhaust gaskets are supposed to withstand. That’s because traditional exhaust gaskets are made of composite materials—blends of natural fibers and synthetic compounds that are bound together using rubber. Simply put, it’s only a matter of time until the extreme temperature in the vehicle’s exhaust system burns the gasket’s composite materials away, resulting in an exhaust leak.

You’ve no doubt experienced the pungent odor that arises from the engine compartment after you install a new set of the top-brand exhaust gaskets. That’s the smell of the rubber binders in the composite materials that begin to burn out almost immediately. And once the rubber overheats, it begins to shrink, as well has harden. That’s why you are instructed to re-torque the gaskets regularly, and why an exhaust leak will develop if you don’t. Remflex exhaust gaskets are made from 100% flexible graphite and can withstand up to 3,000 degrees F—so they are not affected by exhaust system, and won’t burn out, shrink, or leak. Not now, not ever!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F303129170178
Yesterday 10:36 PM
geojase
Quote:
Originally Posted by geojase View Post
I have them, but not the HD pack. They ride great but creak like a wagon sometimes. I use moly grease. See attached for instructions from ARB.Attachment 112346Attachment 112348

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Yesterday 10:32 PM
geojase
Quote:
Originally Posted by 11ORX View Post
I have them, but not the HD pack. They ride great but creak like a wagon sometimes. I use moly grease. See attached for instructions from ARB.Attachment 112346Attachment 112348

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Yesterday 10:29 PM
Just a Hunter Purchase a Silicone based grease (preferably with ptfe) to be used on your polyurethane bushings.
Yesterday 10:11 PM
MartinX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zack. View Post
Added a remflex gasket between drivers side primary and secondary cats. Looked over at passenger side and saw soot and water there too, so installed a remflex gasket on that side as well. Hopefully no more exhaust leaks and no more CEL.
Info on these?
Yesterday 09:16 PM
11ORX
Quote:
Originally Posted by eighty View Post


No installation instructions though. Gonna be installing it with my buddy mechanic. Any tips?
See this thread for the rear...

https://www.thenewx.org/forum/15-how...ngs-leafs.html
Yesterday 09:07 PM
Zack. Added a remflex gasket between drivers side primary and secondary cats. Looked over at passenger side and saw soot and water there too, so installed a remflex gasket on that side as well. Hopefully no more exhaust leaks and no more CEL.
Yesterday 06:44 PM
TerryD I got the one with the small nipple removed from the system today. Probably lost a half cup of antifreeze, just loosening the clamps slipping the hose off of it pulling it off of the heater core, and then shoving the heater hose back up on the heater core without the T in place at all.

Looks like I got it done none too soon, the plastic clamp on the original piece had broken in half. I'm surprised that I wasn't losing antifreeze, and that it had held together for this long.
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