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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-23-2019 02:43 PM
MeHere! From the little I've read coolant does corrode brass faster than aluminum (aluminum said in a brit accent, cuz I love it)
05-23-2019 01:58 PM
Taylor Spaulding
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboardr View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylor Spaulding View Post
Doesn't this suggest not only a leak, but corrosion of the fitting which will lead to more leaking or failure?
Looking again I think you're right about the leak. I thought it was corrosion on the brass from an external source originally, but the hex looks clear of corrosion. If the clamp can't be tightened any more than it is I'd replace it with a beefier clamp, clean off the (coolant residue?) and keep an eye on it.
I'm fairly positive that the coolant is corroding the brass fitting. I'm incredibly worried that the copper brazing in the stainless steel will corrode away completely which would mean coolant in my water. Additionally, it could mean that I end up with a catastrophic failure of the fitting.

The correct thing to do is at LEAST switch out the fittings. But I'm also wondering if flushing the coolant might help to reduce the corrosion in the heat exchanger. There SHOULD be corrosion inhibitors in the coolant, but it doesn't seem like it's inhibiting too much.
05-23-2019 11:43 AM
Longboardr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taylor Spaulding View Post
Doesn't this suggest not only a leak, but corrosion of the fitting which will lead to more leaking or failure?
Looking again I think you're right about the leak. I thought it was corrosion on the brass from an external source originally, but the hex looks clear of corrosion. If the clamp can't be tightened any more than it is I'd replace it with a beefier clamp, clean off the (coolant residue?) and keep an eye on it.
05-23-2019 11:34 AM
Taylor Spaulding
Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboardr View Post
Other than aesthetics I don't see a problem.
Doesn't this suggest not only a leak, but corrosion of the fitting which will lead to more leaking or failure?
05-23-2019 09:10 AM
Longboardr Other than aesthetics I don't see a problem.
05-22-2019 11:13 PM
Taylor Spaulding Update:
Today, I noticed, for the first time, corrosion building up around the heat exchanger I added to my heater hoses.

The exchanger is stainless steel with copper brazing. The fittings are brass. There was a lot of discussion on a forum I read, stating that there's no issue with this combo...but I'm worried now.

I will welcome all input and ideas for solutions. I'm not sure why this began happening.... 😞
04-15-2019 01:00 PM
MedfordChris I've seen a couple rigs with 6" or 8" PVC painted black and attached to the roof rack. Heats up via solar and uses air pressure or on-demand RV pump for showering.
04-14-2019 06:31 PM
Taylor Spaulding
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisHaynesUSA View Post
Your leaf pack appears to be flat.
With what appears to be a crease in your exhaust pipe.
and articulation is limited by the stock anti-sway still attached.
Rear stock bumpstop could be replaced by a Timbren to gain more cushion on up travel.

You will gain additional clearance with a new leaf pack and the removal of the stock trailer hitch(hitch can be integrated with rear bumper).

IMHO might wanna tackle some of those before adding the additional weight of a tank and water load.

9 gallons will add an additional 75 pounds
12 gallons will add an additional 100 pounds

after a little more thought, you may also want to relocate the evap canister if the tank is to be permanent in location.
if not then the water tank may need to be dropped out when you need to change the evap canister. it is a least worth considering while doing all of you measurements.
Thanks Chris! I was going to call today but I got busy. Would larger shackles cause the leaf spring to appear flat? I don't believe it's flat yet, but it might well be, I'll look into either replacing altogether or adding a leaf.

I didn't notice a crease today or the other day when I was under there, but I'll head out right now and check.

I'm actually ok with the hitch for now until I can purchase an integrated hitch and spare wheel swing-away. In regards to that and the swaybar I don't plan on doing any heavy trail driving for a while, call this a forest service roads and camping rig. Would more articulation really help in this situation? Or is that just something I should think about.

The tank SHOULD be able to be dropped for maintenance, that was my original intent. 🙂

I really appreciate your input! I'll look into fixing the things you've mentioned, and grabbing some of those timbrens.
04-14-2019 11:56 AM
ChrisHaynesUSA Your leaf pack appears to be flat.
With what appears to be a crease in your exhaust pipe.
and articulation is limited by the stock anti-sway still attached.
Rear stock bumpstop could be replaced by a Timbren to gain more cushion on up travel.

You will gain additional clearance with a new leaf pack and the removal of the stock trailer hitch(hitch can be integrated with rear bumper).

IMHO might wanna tackle some of those before adding the additional weight of a tank and water load.

9 gallons will add an additional 75 pounds
12 gallons will add an additional 100 pounds

after a little more thought, you may also want to relocate the evap canister if the tank is to be permanent in location.
if not then the water tank may need to be dropped out when you need to change the evap canister. it is a least worth considering while doing all of you measurements.
04-14-2019 11:36 AM
Taylor Spaulding After measuring this morning, I don't know if I need quite that many weight bearing bolts, and I may need to reduce the number simple due to where I can put the "easily". I can easily put two in the frame crossmember which should be the strongest, another two will enter from the cargo hatch. I do not yet know if I'll be able to place more than that without going through hollow body parts or having bolt heads sticking out. More to follow!
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