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Issues with my Xterra

3K views 35 replies 9 participants last post by  ua_xterra_bwidow 
#1 ·
Hey all,

I get the battery gauge arrow go's like a 1-3mm downwards sometimes.

I tried to record it at least 10 times and couldn't get the chance to catch it but when i parked my X in my garage, this issue happened again.


It happens often when i stop my X after driving a bit and usually it happens at a red light.


I went to get my X inspected this morning and my battery and altermator is perfectly fine.

Did anybody ever experienced this problem before?

Thanks in advance
 

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#5 ·
The charging system is computer controlled. The regulator takes instructions from the engine controller.
Some really smart person figured that if they let the charging system work in mysterious ways there is some benefit in it.
The simple answer, you have the problem not the truck.
 
#6 ·
Or maybe my truck has the problem because 10 minutes ago i parked my X infront of the supermarket and when i got back in and started the engine, it sounded like a muscle car carburator engine noise. It woukd start and slowly like die, i had to give a little gas to wake her up.

Upon my return from trucking (5days) i'll change the spark plugs with the wires to start with, if thats not enough i'll change the battery and this coming summer i want to try Seafoam. I heard only good news about this product.
 
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#14 ·
Here's the follow ups i'm going to do when i get back from trucking.

1-Verify if the Dock Air unit is clean and not full of dust.

2- Clean MAF Sensor.

3- if that don't work, my friend told me to visit his 20+ year old mechanic for extra solutions.


I'll keep you all posted of my result in case someone might experience similar situation!
 
#17 ·
the voltage change is normal behavior for xterra. For that part, not worry about it unless voltage gauge shows going down too low.
normally, between 13-13.8v. also cold whether affects the voltage too. when it is cold, the voltage goes up because of the sensor.

i concern more rough idle issue. Do you have scanner? if you have, just run scanner and see what is wrong with it.

If it does not show any trouble codes, then you have to see live data especially A/F ratio, fuel etc to determine what causes rough idle.

If you don't have a scanner, I gonna say replace spark plug and clean throttle body and MAF. be careful about cleaning MAF. it costs a lot if you break it.
Then, you need adjust throttle body learning. the procedure is in FSM. Good luck!
 
#21 ·
Wow this thread is all over the place. So a slightly fluctuating needle is normal. As various electrical loads come and go and the system charges at various levels. If you are watching the needle move 1mm you aren't watching the road. Don't panic over a needle moving, this is a piece of machinery. People panicked over a moving oil pressure needle and the result was nissan taking away a working oil pressure gauge.
 
#22 ·
Well a small update there was a reason to panic after all lol.

Yesterday i cleaned the MAF, but couldn't change my spark plugs due to me not being able to remove the top plastic that connects the throttle body. I don't even know what tool i needed to remove the throttle body 4 bolts, my bolts looked really corroded and old.

Anyways, just came from Costco and i bought a new battery there. Long story short after replacing my battery check engine came on: P 0174.

Now need to research online what could be the problem and work my way out of each image on the list.

Just starred my engine at A&W and the RPM started to go up and up so i freaked out lol and shut it up to later on drive asap at home for a quick scan.
 
#23 ·
The tool for 4 bolts is called hex key. you can get $5-$10.
I feel like that you mess up MAF. What kind of cleaner used? Did you use cleaner specifically for MAF? The sensor of MAF is very very delicate so you can not shoot the cleaner to the MAF directly.
Also you need air dry MAF after cleaning.

The reason I said mess up the MAF is that RPM goes up and up and P0174 code.
Hopefully you did not break the MAF.
 
#25 ·
That code is a lean code. Usually due to the tubing leading to the throttle body not being on correctly or tight. Double check it and clear the code. You didn't touch the MAF with the straw from the cleaner did you? Did you mess with the throttle body with cleaner? It seems like you might be creating your own problems right now.
 
#28 ·
Instead of Ty-Wraps (which cost money and aren't easily reusable) get something like this:
Caution/Safety Tape

Cheap, lots of it for marking a myriad of projects, and in general handy.
 
#30 ·
Do avoid creating similar post which is here and is 7 years old https://www.thenewx.org/forum/11-powertrain-driveline/59625-spark-plug-gap.html

I would ask it in here:

I bought these NGK G-Power Platinum Alloy Spark Plugs which on the little box says not to gap but its around 0.38-0.39 with my gap tool. I read the forum and people said to go with Iridium and my spark plugs must be 0.43 or maximum 0.44. Not the problem is in the link above, someone said not to gab iridium nor platinum.

I can bring them back and get iridium if i really have to, many xterra videos on youtube say platinum is alright and since im not going offroading or drive a lot i don't think iridium is for me?

What should i do?

Thanks for your feedbacks.
 

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#31 · (Edited)
Iridium will last longer than Platinum. IMHO... Anything that will last longer, and make me work less, is better.

BTW... that plug looks to be gapped at .40. I don't care for those gap tools, I'd rather have feeler gauges so I know the exact gap.
 
#33 ·
I installed Iridium IX's when I swapped out my coil packs a few weeks ago. Thought about getting laser iridiums in but the parts store I go to couldn't get them in until the following week. They're almost double the price of the iridium ix ($9 vs $16 CAD) but they'll last longer if you wallet can afford it.
That said, I can't complain with the iridium ix's I have in right now. Acceleration feels a bit quicker though it could be from the new coils too.
 
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