** The Dumb Question Thread ** - Page 96 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #951 of 1368 (permalink) Old 02-11-2019, 03:52 PM
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@Anne

You may want to look at the thread you already started regarding the same question instead of asking it again in a different thread.

https://www.thenewx.org/forum/12-ele...ml#post4270420
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post #952 of 1368 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 02:09 PM
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Nissan engineering - is that for real ?

Instead of access hole to get to the fuel pump I found SEVERAL square inches of plastic "bondo" where the hole should be.
Layered, very neatly, in rows, and painted to match the body paint.
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post #953 of 1368 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 02:57 PM
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** The Dumb Question Thread **

Quote:
Originally Posted by Anne View Post
Instead of access hole to get to the fuel pump I found SEVERAL square inches of plastic "bondo" where the hole should be.

Layered, very neatly, in rows, and painted to match the body paint.


It sounds like you're describing the sound deadening junk that Nissan applies.

You'll find it on the backside of every large panel of sheet metal. -- under the seats, on the walls, in the trunk area. All over.

--
Also, there isn't an access hole. You have two options to get to the pump assembly.
1. Drop the tank. There is a how-to somewhere on it.
2. Cut your own access hole under the rear driver side seat. There is a how-to on it somewhere.

A stick shift is just a millennial anti-theft device.


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post #954 of 1368 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anne View Post
Instead of access hole to get to the fuel pump I found SEVERAL square inches of plastic "bondo" where the hole should be.
Layered, very neatly, in rows, and painted to match the body paint.
Means someone has been in there before, the X doesn't come with an access hole for some reason.


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post #955 of 1368 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 10:46 AM
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BILSTEINS W LIFT

*incoming dumb question* I am getting a in coil spacer aal lift coming soon and would like to replace the shotty shocks and struts considering its a 2005 with 115,000 and they have never been replaced. I was looking at Bilstein 5100's and 4600's, I saw that the 5100 included they work with 2" of lift and the 4600 do not. does that mean i have to use 5100s if i am to lift it
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Chanel the West Coast X in the East
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post #956 of 1368 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domenictomazic View Post
*incoming dumb question* I am getting a in coil spacer aal lift coming soon and would like to replace the shotty shocks and struts considering its a 2005 with 115,000 and they have never been replaced. I was looking at Bilstein 5100's and 4600's, I saw that the 5100 included they work with 2" of lift and the 4600 do not. does that mean i have to use 5100s if i am to lift it
Your coil spacers will work for either shock set. The 5100s are adjustable to up to 2.5" (iirc) and would negate the need for the coil spacers. Although, I've read in some cases those who have maxed out the 5100s get an extremely rough and stiff ride. I run 5100s at stock settings with a spacer. It seems to be smooth enough for me.

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post #957 of 1368 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 12:06 PM
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Hey guys, so yesterday I was installing my white knuckle sliders, and you know that backing plate with the welded nut that goes inside the frame? Well I dropped it inside the frame and can't get it out no matter what I try. I tried fishing it out with a coat hanger with no luck. Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a telescoping magnet, nut not sure if that would fit or be flexible enough. Thanks in advance!
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post #958 of 1368 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalenh View Post
Hey guys, so yesterday I was installing my white knuckle sliders, and you know that backing plate with the welded nut that goes inside the frame? Well I dropped it inside the frame and can't get it out no matter what I try. I tried fishing it out with a coat hanger with no luck. Any ideas? I was thinking maybe a telescoping magnet, nut not sure if that would fit or be flexible enough. Thanks in advance!
drill a hole on the bottom of the frame big enough to pull it out. Then weld a piece of scrap steel over the hole and paint it.
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post #959 of 1368 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by domenictomazic View Post
*incoming dumb question* I am getting a in coil spacer aal lift coming soon and would like to replace the shotty shocks and struts considering its a 2005 with 115,000 and they have never been replaced. I was looking at Bilstein 5100's and 4600's, I saw that the 5100 included they work with 2" of lift and the 4600 do not. does that mean i have to use 5100s if i am to lift it
You will get a better ride with a top spacer instead of the in-coil one. The 5100 has an adjustable lower coil spring mount that raises preload to lift the truck, the in-coil spacer does the same thing, they make the coil stiffer and take away uptravel.. The problem is the 5100 doesn't have much travel to begin with and the preload takes away uptravel. So with 2" of preload, you're driving along and hit a pothole, the wheel would normally go down/up with affecting the cab. But with the preload the shock can only extend maybe another inch or so before it reaches the end of it's travel range so instead the wheel goes down maybe an inch, the shock tops out and it pulls the truck down with it. It translates to a a bad ride quality.

A top spacer doesn't increase preload so it will maintain a factory ride quality but it's the reverse of the above and now you need to limit compression so the shock doesn't get crushed from being compressed too much. You can take care of that with an extended bump stop which can absorb a lot more than the the one in the shock so it's not as jarring. Same trade offs with travel but with a better ride would be either a 4600 or 5100 set to lowest setting + spacer.


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post #960 of 1368 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 04:08 PM
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My dumb question for today:
How do you find the part number for a wiring connector?

I got a P0550, power steering pressure sensor circuit, and found a broken wire right at the connector. If the wire broke 2 inches away I could probably solder and heat shrink it, but thanks to my buddy Mr. Murphy... it's right there at the connector

I can find the sensor no problem. Rockauto link, but that doesn't tell me what wiring connector it needs.

I'm not having any luck finding a wiring plug or pigtail for it. Any pointers?

This part of the FSM shows where it is, front left of the engine not far from the fan belt.


No, I didn't check the voltage off the sensor yet. Yes, the sensor might be bad, but I think I'll need to fix the broken wire either way.

If you want to improve, be content to be thought foolish and stupid -
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