If you are here, most likely you know what these are and what they do, but if not:
What I'm talking about is here:
The New X Thread
Club Frontier Thread
And more specifically here:
More about the top hats and specifics about what they actually do
Link to Club Frontier Sale Thread
1 SET AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT!!!
Round 1 Complete:
9-6-17, 14 Sets Sold
Round 2 Complete:
1-26-17, 4 Sets Sold
Round 3 In Progress!:
20 sets available, 9 sold so far!
On to the parts themselves:
Generation 2.1 Specs:
- 3/16" Steel plate, 100% CNC laser-cut plates
- .120" wall DOM steel tube
- MIG gas shielded welds (dye penetrant tested for safety)
- 10.9 press fit studs
- Class 8 zinc plated nylon locking nuts
- 1/8" thick zinc plated smaller diameter lower washers
- Reversible polyurethane bushings
- Black textured truck bed coating finish
- Shipping included to anywhere in the US (Alaska, Hawaii, Guam, Virgin Islands included)
- Ships in 1-3 weeks, depends on stock
What do they do?
These increase the wheel travel by about 2" over the stock top hats when used with the Tundra 5100s in a Titan Swap. With stock top hats you'll get about 7.5"-7.75" inches at the wheel, once you install these you'll be closer to 10". I have personally been running a gen 1 version of this setup on my truck for over 40k miles now and it has been a great setup for me. Before this I would frequently find the limits of my suspension in the form of top outs and bottom outs, now it is very uncommon for either to occur.
What has changed in the gen 2 design?
-The generation 2 design has been optimized for the recent P/N change in the Tundra 5100s.
-Additionally, it sees improvements in fit as well as strength. Dimensions were rechecked and narrowed down to improve the fit. The original design required the reuse of the factory studs and nuts whereas the gen 2 uses brand new longer and beefier 10.9 rated studs with oversized class 8 nylon lock nuts (while still being able to use factory nuts if need be).
-Furthermore, the use of a staggered poly bushing design allows for even better damping response and fit depending what upper control arm is installed. If using stock uppers, use the tall bushing on top to limit droop, reducing the likelihood of coil bucket contact. If using an aftermarket upper, put the short bushing on top to maximize droop.
-New smaller diameter lower washers are included to virtually eliminate the common "bird chirp" that is caused by using the Bilstein provided washers.
-Coated in black textured oil resistant truck bed finish to reduce corrosion
Conditions of Ordering:
- Agree to legal disclaimer, releasing liability
- Full payment upon order via PayPal
- Some understanding, this is a side job
To request an order, PM me or post in this thread. Not all requests guaranteed, dependent on supply
How to Properly Assemble the Bushing Stack with Your New Tophats:
(photos are of a Pro 4x stock Bilstein but process is the same with all Bilsteins)
1) Install Collar:
- IMPORTANT, if you do not use this there is a high likelihood that the shock shaft will punch through the bushing stack during use. This is the most common error made when assembling Bilsteins in general. It is usually contained in the boot/splash shield, if you do want to use a shield/boot, you must remove the collar to install it separately.
2) Install Lower Washer and Lower Bushing:
- The washer is pretty self-explanatory. For the lower bushing, two sizes are provided. If you are running an aftermarket upper arm (like PRG or SPC) use the taller bushing to allow more droop. If you are running stock titan uppers use the short bushing on the bottom to limit droop and reduce CB contact chance. Either bushing should be installed with the nipple UP.
- Set the snap ring to where you decided would be best for your truck. For most, this will be the lowest groove. Slide the spring perch down from the top so that the snap ring is covered by the cone of the perch. Next slide the spring on with the pig tail end down. Carefully, compress the spring at this point.
4) Spring Isolator:
- If reusing the factory isolator, cut the center out so that you are left with just the outer ring. Install with 3 indentations facing up.
- With spring compressed a good amount, you should be able to pierce the tophat center with the threaded section of the shock shaft. Align the top hat so that the short stud distance is parallel with the lower eye of the shock. With my hats, the stamped serial number will be perpendicular the lower eye bolt. Then align the isolator indentations with the stud heads.
6) Upper Bushing, Upper Washer, Nut:
- Install the other bushing you did not use earlier with the nipple down. Then using one of the Bilstein supplied washers, install it with the cup side facing down. Finally, install the nut with the flange down. Tighten moderately tight but do not try are bottom out the nut on the shaft (until it stops), doing so will eventually cause the bushings to fail. They should squish out some, but not be totally flattened. Should you have them too tight or loose, this can be adjusted while on the truck without the need to take the wheel off. Once tight, you can remove the spring compressors and install on the truck.
Photo courtesy of hector ibarra