Good/Best Brakes.... - Page 2 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 05:18 PM
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Peoples definition of “best” varies widely with brakes. What is best to you? Greatest stopping power? Cheapest? Longest lasting?


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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-10-2019, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jsexton View Post
Peoples definition of “best” varies widely with brakes. What is best to you? Greatest stopping power? Cheapest? Longest lasting?
The question I asked was answered. The best for an xterra is a solid flat rotor, with decent break pads. Anything after that is up to the buyer.
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TimmG View Post
Thanks for replying. Is there a reason to avoid the drilled/slotted rotors? I heard some type of green break pads at good. And the ceramic breaks are good. I honestly don't know much about cars. I'm still learning.
In addition to what has been mentioned, unless the drilled rotors have been forged and properly heat treated (expensive), cracks will start in the holes and grow.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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In addition to what has been mentioned, unless the drilled rotors have been forged and properly heat treated (expensive), cracks will start in the holes and grow.
Good to know. Thank you. Planning on going the thicker solid rotor route. Just have to decide what brake pads are good.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 09:18 AM
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Brake pads and rotors are always a "Hot" topic.

To understand my jest you have but to place a finger onto your brake rotor after having used your brakes.

Ok, as has been shared, follow this link for a wealth of info

https://www.thenewx.org/forum/69-bra...tors-pads.html

Quote:
My only reason is simple science, or so my old told me, Brakes work off friction, the more friction the better. The more mass on the rotor equals more friction, drilled and slotted have less mass therefore less friction ending with less stopping power, exactly how much is debatable, there are other schools of thought in OEM vs Slotted/drilled like do the slots/holes add the wear on the pads -think cheese grater
Some braking news:

in the 1960s, race teams began seeing a great loss in brake capability. In that era of organic and asbestos based pad friction material, a problem occurred with the adhesives used to fasten the pad to the steel backing plates. As the temperature of the pads increased, the adhesive would break down and cause a layer of gas to form between the rotor and the pads. That vapor layer retained heat in the rotor and acted as an “air-bearing” high-pressure area between the pad and rotor. By drilling holes in the rotor surface, those gasses were able to be dissipated into the vented center of the rotor, no longer interfering with the pad to rotor friction

However, a major function of the rotor is to transfer heat out of the brake system. The laws of Physics tell us that energy can be moved and converted to other forms of energy, but never destroyed. That means the kinetic energy (rotating mass) of the rolling wheel and tire are resisted by the brakes, which convert that motion energy into heat energy. That heat is then dissipated into the air by the cooling of the caliper body and rotor. Think of the rotor as the radiator for the brake system.

Following that heat transfer logic tells us that a rotor with more mass can absorb more heat energy than a lighter rotor of the same design. That is an advantage of larger diameter rotors, along with the greater leverage of increased size. The problem with regard to our question of drilled and slotted rotors is that those practices act to reduce the mass of the rotor, reducing the desired heat transfer. Some rodders have correctly stated that the rotor surface area is increased by drilling or slotting, but the issue in heat transfer is mass, not surface area. It does seem that a greater rotor surface area may allow a faster cool down after the heavy braking has stopped, but the issue is more about heat transfer during braking due to rotor total mass.

It is the experience based opinion of every single brake expert I have consulted, that the loss of rotor mass due to drilling and slotting creates more brake loss than any possible gains due to degassing or faster cooling of the surface area. There is no better authority on hot rod brakes than Ralph Lisena at ECI. Ralph agrees that practical street driven vehicles rarely encounter the high heat conditions that make drilled or slotted rotors beneficial from a strictly functional stand point.

To read the full article, visit this site: https://www.good-guys.com/hotnews/tr...-brake-rotors/

A general synopsis.
If you have a vehicle which will see repeated high speed braking such as a sportscar used for track day racing, there my be a benefit in drilled slotted brakes. For those of us which own a daily driver , it is unlikely we will ever heat our brakes to such a degree as to find a benefit in off-gassing our brake system.

As has been shared, for an offroad vehicle, a solid rotor with either a brake pad such as the Raybestos EHT, Wagner Thermoquiet or OEX is in my opinion your best choice.
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Last edited by Just a Hunter; 05-11-2019 at 09:59 AM.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 03:23 PM
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I can tell you this right now ... unless my rotors NEED replacing (warped or grooved) I'll stick with the ones that came on my truck from the factory. I'll make dam sure I replace the pads before they wear down enough to damage the rotors and I will replace the pads with OEM. They have functioned exactly as designed for 50K miles so far and they produce little dust and no noise. WINNER!

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 05:00 PM
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I will replace the pads with OEM. They have functioned exactly as designed for 50K miles so far and they produce little dust and no noise. WINNER!
OEM is only a winner so long as you never need to stop in less distance than what your SUV is currently capable of.

Generally speaking, the Xterra will probably brake from 60mph to 0 in apx 145ft.
This distance is fairly comparable to what many small/midsized trucks and SUVs are capable of . However, let's say in an emergency braking situation you need to stop in 142ft or less. Yes, there are times in which every foot counts and there is plenty of room for improvements in our brakes.

Surely, we can all imagine what the end result will be.
I dont mind having a pad which needs to be replaced more often or is dustier if its performance is improved over stock.

The cost of pads is alot cheaper than bodywork or a lawsuit.

Ps. The OEM pads cost apx $80 a set at my local dealership. However the EHT Raybestos pads cost $29 at Rockauto.com
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Just a Hunter View Post
I dont mind having a pad which needs to be replaced more often or is dustier if its performance is improved over stock.

The cost of pads is alot cheaper than bodywork or a lawsuit.

Ps. The OEM pads cost apx $80 a set at my local dealership. However the EHT Raybestos pads cost $29 at Rockauto.com



Show me some data (NOT from Raybestos) that says their pads are 'better' in any way over OEM.
Raybestos cost $29? That's probably what they're worth. Again, I'll stand pat with OEM cuz they work well.


MTA: I suppose it could depend on how much your truck is mod'd. I don't have a heavy front winch bumper or rear tire carrier and am not titan swapped. That would probably require a brake 'recalibration'.

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Last edited by campisi; 05-11-2019 at 05:31 PM.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campisi View Post
Show me some data (NOT from Raybestos) that says their pads are 'better' in any way over OEM.
Raybestos cost $29? That's probably what they're worth. Again, I'll stand pat with OEM cuz they work well.


MTA: I suppose it could depend on how much your truck is mod'd. I don't have a heavy front winch bumper or rear tire carrier and am not titan swapped. That would probably require a brake 'recalibration'.
Well a quick simple way to see a difference is look at the friction code on the pads. OEM is FF vs EHT which is GG. This is a friction rating system assigned from DOT specs. It may have changed lately but at the time I got my EHT's they were the only GG rated pads available to us and they made a huge difference in my stopping power considering I'm fully armored and lifted/winch etc.

Best is still subjective. Longevity I would say OEM but braking power I would go to EHT.


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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 05-11-2019, 08:25 PM
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Image of Raybestos EHT brake pad and an Akebono ProAct pad.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/117853...4/17664778440/

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8787/1...b39946a1_b.jpg

Note the difference in the contact area of the Raybestos vs the Akebono.
For comparison, the Akebono pad is shown on top

Additionally the Raybestos pad has a GG friction rating vs the Akebono which has a friction rating of FF.

Some may be wondering why I posted a pic of an Akebono brake pad.
Truth is, I couldn't find a pic of an Raybestos EHT next to an OEM Xterra pad which wasn't already worn.

Additionally, there are many which feel Nissans Xterra brake pads are manufactured by Akebono.

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Last edited by Just a Hunter; 05-11-2019 at 08:51 PM.
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