Proper Brake Break-in for New Pads and Rotars - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
Veteran
2007 Lightning Silver Xterra S 4x4 "BaseCamp" Edition
 
silverflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 2,814
Proper Brake Break-in for New Pads and Rotars

Ok. I am about to go doo the front pads and rotors on my xterra and once i am done, what is the proper method to break in the brakes?

I have done the pads 3 times in it's life since new and the last 2 times they seem to last only 20k until they start vibrating. i am switching to semi-metallics from ceramics in the hopes that the change will address the issue- thinking it will scrub away any material that transfers over to the discs. i am also going to be r&r'ing the slide pins- have new boots and new synthetic high temp brake caliper grease.

once i finish in about 3 hours, what are all your opinions on breaking them in? Easy till i get out of hood to the 55 zone then 6 stops from 45 to about 20? then easy on them. i am 1/2 mile from the 55 road and that road ends in either direction in 2 miles. That next road is 55 for about 15 minutes before a stop.

thoughts?
silverflash is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 05:49 PM
Veteran
2011 Night Armor Xterra S 4x4 6MT
 
Longboardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 3,694
This is what I did.

Rays Best Brakes: Raybestos Brake Installation Tips

Carpe lardum

If you're gonna be dumb you better be tough.
Longboardr is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 05:58 PM
Veteran
2015 Metallic Blue Xterra Pro-4X
 
RikRong's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Antelope Valley, CA
Posts: 2,386
Garage
I personally like to bed-in at lower speeds, similar to what Raybestos suggests in the link @Longboardr provided. 30 to 40 MPH and stop, several times in a row, get the brakes nice and warm, then let them cool down.

R. Long
Build Thread-->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

SoCal Club Xterra -->
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
RikRong is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 07:09 PM
Veteran
2014 Silver Lightning Xterra S 4x4
 
Just a Hunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Georgia
Posts: 977
Garage
That's alot of brake jobs.

Are you replacing rotors, resurfacing rotors or just doing a pad swap?

“All that the South has ever desired was that the Union as established by our forefathers should be preserved and that the government as originally organized should be administered in purity and truth.”
Robert E. Lee
Just a Hunter is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
2007 Lightning Silver Xterra S 4x4 "BaseCamp" Edition
 
silverflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 2,814
i am replacing rotors and pads every time due to pulsating. that fixes it for 20k miles or 5 years- i drive abt 4k miles a year with it at most.


so the job from walking in the garage to cleaning up and going for a test drive took 5 hours and 20 minutes. LOL.

this is just for the front.

the drivers side the side i did first took 3 hours and 15 because i ran into a problem removing the 2 caliper bracket bolts. the trick was to move my jack out of the way, set down my purse, and use the cheater bar. where i jacked up the truck, interfered with the cheater bar being extended beyond a certain point so i couldn't get enough leverage to break them free- even with liberal amounts of pb blaster. once i removed the jack, it came off quick enough. i then had trouble with the pin boots not wanting to go over the lip on the bracket. trick there was to just push the pin all the way in with one hand and with the other, turn the boot until it caught for a seal.

i had some slight lug creaking tightening up but nothing i hadn't seen before- pass side was a different matter.


on the pass side, it went faster because i knew the tricks but when it came time to tighten the lugs, about everyone creaked and chattered.

for the life of me i don't know why they did. anyhow i torqued best i could and drove and no shakes anymore and i broke the pads in. 8 40-10mph stops then 15 minute driving with no braking.


the creaking lugs still bother me. i am going to remove the pass side and wire brush the threads and the lugs and the mating surface of the wheel to the lugs.

what causes the creaking and giving sensation when tightening them? i had the same sensation with my breaker bar when i was just tightening them. could it be the lug riding up against the wheel face where the two meet? i do know that when i put the wheel up against the hub, it wouldn't sit all the way flush like when i do tire rotations. maybe because the pads and rotor are sort of loose on the hub till you tighen it all down with the lugs and use the breaks? maybe that is why all the creaks and croans?

thoughts?


thanks!
silverflash is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 11:13 AM
Senior Member
2008 Xterra
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 333
Creaking when tightening the wheel lugs? All threads and other metal to metal contact surfaces should be clean and smooth. Creaking indicates the surfaces are not smooth but I would consider some normal in the last quarter turn of the nuts as the nuts and wheel contact surfaces load up.
whatnext is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
2007 Lightning Silver Xterra S 4x4 "BaseCamp" Edition
 
silverflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 2,814
Quote:
Originally Posted by whatnext View Post
Creaking when tightening the wheel lugs? All threads and other metal to metal contact surfaces should be clean and smooth. Creaking indicates the surfaces are not smooth but I would consider some normal in the last quarter turn of the nuts as the nuts and wheel contact surfaces load up.
i also felt it give or something in the wrench. so i am not confident in the torque setting. it also did it with the breaker bar before i used the torque wrench.
silverflash is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
Veteran
2007 Lightning Silver Xterra S 4x4 "BaseCamp" Edition
 
silverflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 2,814
i am going to remove the lugs, and wheel, and wire brush the studs, lugs, face of the hub, back of the wheel, front of the wheel around the lug holes and see what happens..

it's maybe grit in between the lugs and wheel face.. hopefully not studs.

OEM fog lights, Nissan Bug Deflector, Nissan Seat covers, Trident white a/c unit mod
Rear Timbrens, Flexible mudflaps, GY DuraTrac 265/75R16 C-rated, bil 5100 shocks front/rear, K&N 57-6014 FIPK, Flowmaster 40/custom y-pipe, vistapro radiator, bully dog GT
silverflash is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 01:12 PM
Veteran
2006 Super Black Xterra S
 
General_Tarfun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,491
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by silverflash View Post
i also felt it give or something in the wrench. so i am not confident in the torque setting. it also did it with the breaker bar before i used the torque wrench.
What kind of torque wrench? It sound like they might be torqued too tightly.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
General_Tarfun is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
Veteran
2007 Lightning Silver Xterra S 4x4 "BaseCamp" Edition
 
silverflash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Holly Springs, NC
Posts: 2,814
update! i feel like robert stack......


i took the wheels off, cleaned everyhting with wire brush- threads of the studs/lugs/recessed area of the wheels where the lugs go in and the back of that area on the back of wheel. same issue.

i picked up 6 new lugs dorman part # 611-114 while i was getting the stuff needed to do the above just in case.


that was the fix!

new lugs went on smooth and zero chatter. torqued to 98 ft/lbs!

will source 12 more to do rears at next tire rotation.


so lugs were really korked up along the interface where it goes into the hole in the wheel...

OEM fog lights, Nissan Bug Deflector, Nissan Seat covers, Trident white a/c unit mod
Rear Timbrens, Flexible mudflaps, GY DuraTrac 265/75R16 C-rated, bil 5100 shocks front/rear, K&N 57-6014 FIPK, Flowmaster 40/custom y-pipe, vistapro radiator, bully dog GT
silverflash is offline  
Reply

  Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) > Xterra Tech Topics > Brakes, Tires and Wheels

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome