Persistent Brake Issues - Page 2 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019, 04:20 PM
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well i can't see oem not warping/getting deposits on them and aftermarket does.
I'd bet if you kept the OEM on longer they would have. Mine started vibrating around 70k, that's when I first noticed a stuck pin on the drivers side but back then I was clueless as to what a pin even was or how to fix it.


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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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yeah. i think i learned about the pins in doing my friends xterra and back then, 2014, i was too lazy to pull it apart again. Anyhow, i have the new discs and pads and will r&r the pins- which isn't hard to do, when i swap it all out in a few weeks.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019, 08:08 PM
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For those in the road salt states:

Last year on my 08, the back pads on the fronts brakes were noticeably thinner than the outer pads. Turns out the caliber brackets rusted and pinched the tabs on the pads. With the piston pushing from the back, it ground the back pads down. Had to pound them out with a hammer. Having owned vehicles for 40-50 yrs, this is the first time the pinching of the tabs on the brake pads has occurred. Caliber brackets do rust so what was different here? The caliber brackets rusted in flaking layers. Never had this before. Will have to check and clean out the slots on the caliber brackets every year now.

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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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i did my brake job in front. pads looked fine to me. i will say i had trouble with the lugs making lots of noises and possibly affecting proper torque'ing.

i replaced the lugss and cleaned the stud threads and wheel faces and zero issues with torquing now. Perhaps this was the cause of my getting warped rotors- improper torque?
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 11:38 AM
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Short of your wheels literally wobbling on the studs I don't see where it would make any difference to the brakes if the lug nuts were just barely tight enough to keep the wheel on or if they were so tight they were almost to the point of snapping the lug off.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 02:09 PM
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Inconsistent wheel torque is the main cause of warped rotors. That’s why we have torque sticks for our impact wrenches.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 02:11 PM
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Short of your wheels literally wobbling on the studs I don't see where it would make any difference to the brakes if the lug nuts were just barely tight enough to keep the wheel on or if they were so tight they were almost to the point of snapping the lug off.
The wheel is what holds the rotor in place. If the lug nuts are not torqued properly in the right pattern, as the rotor gets hot, the metal distorts.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 04:29 PM
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Just to add some notes to what is mentioned above: Rotor ware may be accelerated by using metallic/semi metallic pads instead of ceramic type.

In edition to that, some performance/HD/metallic pads can cause a higher rotor temperature (especially if caliper is sticking). If the rotor metal is of lesser quality and running a higher temp, it could warp simply by driving through a water puddle.

Has a tech back in the stone age, I used a temp gun on each wheel to see if one ran significantly higher temps than others. The one that ran the higher temp more often than not had a sticky caliper. If high temps came from rear brakes. Sometimes was because the E-brake was over tightened.

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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 04:37 PM
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Live and learn, thanks guys.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 03-06-2019, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdventureRider81 View Post
Just to add some notes to what is mentioned above: Rotor ware may be accelerated by using metallic/semi metallic pads instead of ceramic type.

In edition to that, some performance/HD/metallic pads can cause a higher rotor temperature (especially if caliper is sticking). If the rotor metal is of lesser quality and running a higher temp, it could warp simply by driving through a water puddle.

Has a tech back in the stone age, I used a temp gun on each wheel to see if one ran significantly higher temps than others. The one that ran the higher temp more often than not had a sticky caliper. If high temps came from rear brakes. Sometimes was because the E-brake was over tightened.
this is what i heard and i am fine with that. my reasoning going to semi-metallic was because i heard ceramics leave a resin on the discs causing the pulsating. the semi's don't and they scrub anything off. which is fine by me because replacing rotors every 20k gets old. but that's 4 years the way i drive it. AND i didn't learn about the lugs till this last time- that may have been causing them to warp and the ceramics were fine..

time will tell..
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  Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) > Xterra Tech Topics > Brakes, Tires and Wheels

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