Rugged Rocks 180A and 270A Alternator Electrical Issues - Page 9 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #81 of 89 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 08:42 AM
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Follow up/checking back in. Everything still working well?

Also curious, do you intend to do a more detailed how to with pictures?
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post #82 of 89 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 10:05 AM Thread Starter
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Everything is still working very well. I don't have anymore pictures to contribute at this time. I get a chance to work on the rig every once in a while and usually time is really limited. Being as none of my non-TNX friends know how to turn a wrench or refuse to even think of touching a car other than driving it or adding gas, I am left to work on stuff by myself. I am constantly racing against the sunset to get things done and snapping pics is the last thing on my mind, I know, it sucks, but that is the reality. I am more than happy to answer questions, I am not a great mechanic, but I can turn a wrench and I'm a very persistent engineering type. I try to contribute what I can here.
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post #83 of 89 (permalink) Old 08-19-2018, 04:54 PM
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I installed the RR alternator today. As for the setup, I tried to keep it close to the OEM setup only changing the charge cable to a 1/0 gauge welding wire going straight from the alternator to the battery terminal, and using the RR provided harness adapter. I didn't see the point in the fuse as the max the battery will see is 180a so why use a 200a fuse? I taped and zip tied the old harness out of the way. The factory fuse block was fed away from the terminal using those 1 gauge kits you get at the automotive stores. There was no ground cable so I did not install an additional ground. When I replace the belt I'll go a tad smaller, the current belt was in very good condition.

For voltages I saw the following on my Bully Dog:

14.8-14.6 on initial start up.

With AC and lights on it was about 14.1-14.4V at idle, occasionally going back up to 14.6-14.7V.

Normal driving it averages 14.4-14.6V. If I accelerate it will do 14.7-14.8V on occasion. When I decelerate it drops to 14.1V but will go as low as 13.9V for a second returning to 14.4V when I stop.

I noticed is the windows go up faster at idle. Also the drop in RPMs when you depress the clutch seems to be less so it shifts a lot nicer, especially 1st and 2nd gear which I was not expecting but was nevertheless happy about! I mean it is really noticeably better! I used to have to fineness the fly-by wire throttle to keep the rpms nice, but now it is much more consistent and smooth.
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post #84 of 89 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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With the colder weather upon us again (it never gets too cold in California) but visiting Washington recently, I saw the voltages in the 14.9-15.2 range. As soon as I got back into Commiefornia and the weather warmed up, I was back in the 14.7v range. There was no bobbling, voltages read pretty constant. The new regulator does seem to work, but it is heavily influenced by the environment. Overall I am still happy with the alternator, it just took a while to get everything to work just right. I hope this thread has helped others with this alternator.

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post #85 of 89 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LNXPenguin View Post
With the colder weather upon us again (it never gets too cold in California) but visiting Washington recently, I saw the voltages in the 14.9-15.2 range. As soon as I got back into Commiefornia and the weather warmed up, I was back in the 14.7v range. There was no bobbling, voltages read pretty constant. The new regulator does seem to work, but it is heavily influenced by the environment. Overall I am still happy with the alternator, it just took a while to get everything to work just right. I hope this thread has helped others with this alternator.
My voltages also go up to 15-15.2v on start up in the cold weather. I turn on the seat heater and defog and it lowers them to 14.9v and it will settle into the normal ranges mentioned above when the engine is warmed up. I no longer worry about the voltages, the system has been very consistent and keeps my AGM battery healthy.
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post #86 of 89 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 01:48 PM
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I am confirming I get similar numbers on my 2011 with my Ultragauge, about 15.1 or so on cold startup, 14.7 when it settles in.
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post #87 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 04:17 PM
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I have a question for those that have done this. I have a 270a DCPower alt coming and I'm going to upgrade the wiring to 1/0 + and negative to 2g with military terminals. I'm going to put an inline 300a fuse on the + line but do we reuse the fusible link and if so how? Wouldn't the new amp draw blow it? 140a is the highest in the link iirc. Anyone have any pics of setup? I'm looking specifically at how the alt+ cable connects to it and how you're connecting the link to the battery.

Thanks.
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post #88 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by IssacHunter View Post
I have a question for those that have done this. I have a 270a DCPower alt coming and I'm going to upgrade the wiring to 1/0 + and negative to 2g with military terminals. I'm going to put an inline 300a fuse on the + line but do we reuse the fusible link and if so how? Wouldn't the new amp draw blow it? 140a is the highest in the link iirc. Anyone have any pics of setup? I'm looking specifically at how the alt+ cable connects to it and how you're connecting the link to the battery.

Thanks.
You just remove the link and make an extension from the battery terminal. No need to worry about it after this. Also I didn't bother with an inline fuse, with a 270a I'm not sure, maybe you need one? I also didn't have to change the negative terminal, just made a +ve. Again 180a isn't as much of a jump as a 270a unit though. If no one hits you up with a picture I will get one for you tomorrow as I'm gonna be neck deep in electrical tomorrow doing a dual battery setup (weather permitting).

Edit: Here is a link you want post 192 https://www.thenewx.org/forum/50-mem...t-west-20.html
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Last edited by PhullD; 06-29-2019 at 05:50 PM.
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post #89 of 89 (permalink) Old 06-30-2019, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhullD View Post
You just remove the link and make an extension from the battery terminal. No need to worry about it after this. Also I didn't bother with an inline fuse, with a 270a I'm not sure, maybe you need one? I also didn't have to change the negative terminal, just made a +ve. Again 180a isn't as much of a jump as a 270a unit though. If no one hits you up with a picture I will get one for you tomorrow as I'm gonna be neck deep in electrical tomorrow doing a dual battery setup (weather permitting).

Edit: Here is a link you want post 192 https://www.thenewx.org/forum/50-mem...t-west-20.html
Much obliged. That's not too bad.
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