caain's 2012 Xterra, Brynhildr - Page 4 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #31 of 40 (permalink) Old 12-03-2018, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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I've hated every mount I've tried for my phone, so I made this one. It needs some work but it mounts the phone in a much better spot for using Android Auto and only blocks things I don't need when using the phone. I really need to buy an Android head unit, but funds are allocated elsewhere for now.




When I get back to using a phone with wireless charging, I'll design a mount that incorporates a coil charger. For now, I'll use a cord.
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post #32 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-12-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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New pile of parts is here. Bilstein 6112s, 1" Nisstec top spacers, Mevotech UCAs, and Bilstein 5100s for the rear. I ordered from four different suppliers on Tuesday and it was all here by Saturday morning. The Mevotechs from Rock Auto are definitely still rebranded SPCs, so I'm happy with those.

I'm hoping to install this over the next long weekend, but it might have to sit for a bit. The 6112s re-use OEM top hats and isolators, but I think I'm just going to get new ones. It may make it easier for whoever wants to buy my OEM 4600s if they're still assembled. The plan for now is to run the 6112s at 1" lift with the 1" spacer on top and move things up when I size up on tires.





These things are FAT!

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post #33 of 40 (permalink) Old 01-20-2019, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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I worked on the top hats for the 6112s I have waiting to install. 6112s don't come with top hats or isolators (they re-use OEM), but I figured I'd assemble them with new parts while I was at it. It should cut down on install time and then I'll have complete Pro-4X coilovers to stash or sell.

I bought 1/2" (1" lift) spacers from Nisstec, which require longer studs to run. Nisstec offers new top hats with longer studs pressed in, but it's like a $90 upcharge (twice the cost of the spacers). Initially I'd planned to source some longer bolts and weld them into the top hats, but Nissan4Life on Club Frontier found a set of Kawasaki wheel studs that are just the right size. I don't own a press (I want one more now) so a hammer, vise, and some profanity got the new ones in. They are almost exactly 1/2" longer than OEM, and the spacers adequately cover the excess spline length. The OEM studs were very easy to get out.




Onto the isolators. I cheaped out and bought a set from 'Febest' on Amazon since the price was decent and they didn't come with a bunch of extra bits I won't need with the 6112 install kit. This was kind of a mixed bag as the overall construction is fine, but the design is flawed. The relief cutouts on the top side of the isolator are meant to fit around the heads of the top hat studs. They are cut quite large, and only one of them lined up properly (isolators can't be rotated as they have a 'key' that fits in the top hat). I ended up needing to notch them about 3mm in two places, but they now seat into the top hat around the studs just fine. This issue was present with both the OEM studs and the new ones I installed.





The 6112s have six height settings, but don't offer a great deal of lift at 1.6" max. I've got the circlip set about in the middle at 1" of lift and will rely on the Nisstec spacer to keep me at 2" over stock. I'm really not looking for anything higher at the moment. Just waiting on my spring compressor to arrive. I'm sick of borrowing/renting them and I need to do the suspension on my wife's Subie soon so I might as well get a set of suicide sticks.

tl;dr - put longer studs in OEM top hats for 1/2" spacer, had to notch aftermarket isolators to work with OEM top hat, anxiously waiting for my spring compressor so I can get the coilovers assembled.
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post #34 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Last weekend I installed the rear Bilstein 5100s, removed the rear sway bar, and made an aluminum bracket to re-orient the rear brake lines so I have more slack at full droop. I still haven't even assembled the 6112s yet, so the front has to wait a while.

I've been working on some bumpstop extenders/adapter plates to allow the use of rear Super Bumps from Wheelers Off-Road. For my setup, they need to be about 3/4" thick. These will allow for the extension as well as correct the too-narrow bolt pattern of the bumpstops without modifying either the frame or the bumpstop bracket. This is the third 'prototpye' I've printed and I think I'm happy with it at this point. I was tempted to try printing it in solid PETG, nylon, or polycarbonate, but I've settled on aluminum. I bought the stock, but I don't think I can make these the way I want in my garage. Need to find a machinist.



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post #35 of 40 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 08:21 AM
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very nice build, subscribed!

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post #36 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
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Fuse/relay box and lights project is finally done. For now. The relay box is overbuilt in the hopes of making future upgrades a bit less difficult. It is only pulling about 20A max now across all the lights on 5 circuits, but should be good for up to 180A across six circuits if need be.

The front and rear light bars are dual-color amber and white models and can be run in either color or both. I have the amber circuits wired through a flasher on a switch so they can either solid or flashing. I'd planned to use the rear bar in flashing amber as a high-mounted duster light, and both whenever I need hazards. I'm not sure how much use I'll get out of solid amber in front or rear.. maybe the front during fog, but I'm a bit skeptical there. The amber is brighter than the 'clearance' lights on Quadratec bars, but not nearly as bright as the white.






I still need to do the fog lights and OR lights anytime mods, and I think I'll do the ABS off mod while I'm at it.
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post #37 of 40 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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The rear bumpstop retrofit continues...

I sent files and measurements for the extensions/adapters to a few local machine shops, but they were wanting $120 just in labor for drilling and counterboring 4 holes and drilling/tapping 4 holes in 3/4" aluminum I would provide them. I have no reason to believe this is not a reasonable cost (I've never sent anything to a machine shop), but at that price I'd be into these for more than a set of Timbrens. @Longboardr has been very helpful in giving me tips for attempting to do this at home with my very underpowered drill press and an end mill, but I think I'm going to give the solid 3D printed ones a shot.

I'm sticking with PETG. It is water, UV, and chemical resistant, and has one of the highest densities of non-filled filaments on the market. It also seems plenty strong when printed completely solid (though 99% of 3D prints are partially hollow). As a test, I printed a 1" cube, drilled/tapped an M10-1.25 hole, and put it through some paces. It doesn't deform at all in a vise - even when using a cheater bar to tighten (to the point where I was worried I'd break the vise). I put it on a floor jack and used it as a single jacking point for lifting my wife's Subaru - no issue. Same with the X. It also survived several frustration-fueled blows from a sledgehammer with only surface damage. Absolutely no structural deformity, no cracks, nothing. So, in the end I'm not worried about using the material for this application.

Unfortunately, I was rushing when setting up the first print last night and forgot bed adhesive. The print lifted halfway through and came out too crooked to use, so I'll use it as another test piece for now.





The plan is still to install these next week, along with a trimmed version of the Superbumps in the front when I swap coilovers.

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post #38 of 40 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 07:02 AM
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Very nice!

How much did the final weight end up at printing it solid?

I liked how you tested a small block as a jack pad. With so much more area the spacer should be far less stressed and I agree with you about not worrying. I'm curious how well it holds up over time. But if it does break... you can always make another!

You said you drilled and tapped the test block. Did you do the same on the spacer or did you try printing the M10 thread?

Last thing I thought of was what you can do better with printing over machining. That metal mount plate, if it slides or rotates, puts shear force on the bolts. Not worried about the bolts here, but maybe that would deform/crack/tearout the threaded plastic. If you printed some extra walls around the plate those would take any shear force and keep it from weakening the threads. I'm thinking like the plate goes down into a little socket, sort of. Maybe totally pointless, but something easy to do with printed plastic that's hard to do without having a cnc mill.

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post #39 of 40 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 29erClan View Post
Very nice!



How much did the final weight end up at printing it solid?



I liked how you tested a small block as a jack pad. With so much more area the spacer should be far less stressed and I agree with you about not worrying. I'm curious how well it holds up over time. But if it does break... you can always make another!



You said you drilled and tapped the test block. Did you do the same on the spacer or did you try printing the M10 thread?



Last thing I thought of was what you can do better with printing over machining. That metal mount plate, if it slides or rotates, puts shear force on the bolts. Not worried about the bolts here, but maybe that would deform/crack/tearout the threaded plastic. If you printed some extra walls around the plate those would take any shear force and keep it from weakening the threads. I'm thinking like the plate goes down into a little socket, sort of. Maybe totally pointless, but something easy to do with printed plastic that's hard to do without having a cnc mill.
I really need to buy a digital scale.. I can't give an exact weight, but given the filament diameter, density, and usage, I would ballpark at 175 grams each.

I did drill and tap the spacer as well rather than printing the M10 threads. If I were printing in fine resolution with high cooling, I'd give printing the threads a shot. However, I'm printing the filament hot at a large resolution with no cooling to encourage better layer bonding. It makes for an uglier (but stronger) final product, so I have to keep the design a bit more simple. I tried having my initials etched into the side of the spacer and even those came out wonky. A little post-processing with the drill and tap doesn't bother me, and that way I know the threads are perfect.

I really like your socket idea for the steel plate. I need to take some measurements but it should be pretty easy to add. I was thinking maybe a 5mm wall that's at least as tall as the plate itself. Something like this:



What are your thoughts? Thanks!

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post #40 of 40 (permalink) Old Today, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
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I really need to buy a digital scale..
I weigh little stuff on my wife's digital kitchen scale.

Quote:
Originally Posted by caain View Post
I'm printing the filament hot at a large resolution with no cooling to encourage better layer bonding.
Well that sounds like an excellent reason. I have to thank you again... in the beginning what little 3d printing I did was point-n-click. I didn't really understand any of the details behind the scenes and this layer bonding / resolution trade off is one more thing on the list I've learned from you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by caain View Post
I really like your socket idea for the steel plate. I need to take some measurements but it should be pretty easy to add. I was thinking maybe a 5mm wall that's at least as tall as the plate itself. Something like this:
.IMG.
What are your thoughts? Thanks!
That's pretty much what I was trying to say. I might have just done the corners/ends and skipped the center section to skimp on material a bit. Potato, potahto. Overall I'd say that looks like a great way to capture the steel plate and limiting the bolts to clamp forces only.

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