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CThoreal's D.D. Adventure Rig (Now TS'd)

35K views 151 replies 30 participants last post by  CThoreal 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Intro Comments: Well I figured it was high time I made a build page for my X. I've gotten quite a bit done in a years time, and naturally got some things to go back and re-do.

My original plans for this rig was a mild overlander / general adventure rig with 2" lift with a bumper and some other functional mods. I daily drive my X and do all repairs and work myself. Not having the luxury of long down time and doing upgrades bit by bit has altered the process a little. All in all I love my X more than any other vehicle I've had. The mileage is a little high but its been incredibly reliable so far. I'll keep it running long as I possibly can.

Nickname: Goblin? Money Pit? The Other Woman? Nothing has stuck yet.

Username: CThoreal

Make: Nissan
Year: 2011
Model: Xterra
Trim: S 4x4 6MT
Color: Metallic Green

MODS


Red = in progress

Suspension(Front):
-Titan swap MKII's w/ 650# Springs
-SPC Titan UCAs
-PRG Braided extended brake lines
-PRG bump stops
-cam bolts
-PRG LCA spacers
-Mevotech Titan LCAs

Suspension(Rear):
-Ironman HD leaf springs w/ovld, #3 removed
-PRG Adj. Shackles
-Timbren SES bump stops
-Brake line extension mod
-Bilstein 5160s
-diff breather mod
-Spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers

Performance:
-Air box mod
-IMS spacer
-Magnaflo 12580 muffler 2in/1out
-deleted y-pipe
-Bullydog tuner

Armor:
-Hardcore Offroad winch bumper & Rad Ski
-Hardcore Offroad rear bumper
-BTF Diff. Cover
-Hardcore Offroad sliders

Interior:
-Aftermarket heated seats
-Wet Okole seat covers
-Weather Tech digifit mats
-Android double din head unit
-8" 600watt under seat sub
-Rockford Fosgate 3 way speakers all around
-rear hatch inside latch access mod
-Leather wheel wrap
-LoMo2 interior roof rack

Electrical:
-Blue Seas 12 position fuse box under dash
-Dual USB ports
-Console mounted rocker switches.
-In bumper 3.5" 18w amber LED pods
-flush mounted 18w LED pods in rear bumper
-Auxbeam 7" 90w spot/flood combo LED lights. w/ clear and amber lenses

Current Projects:
-custom integrated receiver/tire mount Integrated Hitch / Tire Carrier Idea
-Aluminum skid plates

Wheels/Tires:
  • Stock S 5-spoke wheels (bedlined black)
  • 295/75r16 Cooper AT3 XLTs
PHOTOS
Current


Day 1










 
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#6 ·
Thanks man. Yeah supposedly a shop is machining an adapter plate for the manual bell housing. But its not something that can actually be done at the moment. My motor runs great right now. Hopefully when it eventually goes the swap will be doable.
 
#12 ·
There's a chance I have it sitting too close to the lights. Ill be keeping an eye out for signs of contact when the frame flexes. I was questioning the dual fogs myself, after I ordered it, but I think it turned out great.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Nice, the dual fogs are way better than I was expecting. And the blackish-gray (or is it just matte black?) paint looks good. Now you got me self-conscious about my gap underneath the headlights though... Looks like mine is about twice the distance of yours.

Comparison via 10/10 photoshop skills:




Are you happy with the prerunner bar? Or are you wishing you joined the elite club of the Full Guard? ;)
 
#17 · (Edited)
Nice, the dual fogs are way better than I was expecting. And the blackish-gray (or is it just matte black?) paint looks good. Now you got me self-conscious about my gap underneath the headlights though... Looks like mine is about twice the distance of yours. But at this point I probably won't touch on the mounting position again until I get a winch.

Comparison via 10/10 photoshop skills:


Are you happy with the prerunner bar? Or are you wishing you joined the elite club of the Full Guard?
Ha! I dig the comparison image. Its a fine textured matte black bed liner actually (bumper and grill). Pictures make it look grey unless the lighting is just right.

I went and ran some rocky dirt roads on Sunday and my headlights made some very minor contact with the bumper, at the bottom of the turn signal. Nothing more than a slight scuff on the finish of the bumper. I'll be dropping it down a tiny bit, maybe another 1/8" or so. So if you do dont move it up too much if at all. Thinking a 1/4" of clearance between bumper and bottom edge of the turn signal should do it.

I really like the prerunner bar. Im not one to drag my car through brush or cut it too close to rocks or trees unless I know I'll clear. So the full guard would probably be overkill for me. They look friggen awesome though. Hopefully I dont take a headlight out later and regret not have the full guard. Im jealous of your '86 emblem. My fathers got a mint '86-1/2 720 pickup and I've been wanting to steal him emblems.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Well after a weekend trying out the new Radflos , street ride is better than bilstiens but not by a whole lot. Washboard is eaten up beautifully. Bumps and small square hits are handled great. Potholes are another story, very harsh and jarring. I now need a top spacer to gain some droop. Was hoping to get away without it as Greg @ PEG didn't think I'd need it with only 2.5" of lift.

1" top spacer w/ extended studs ordered.

Also gonna pull my front sway bar off and see how it feels without.
 
#22 ·
Well after a weekend trying out the new Radflos , street ride is better than bilstiens but not by a whole lot. Washboard is eaten up beautifully. Bumps and small square hits are handled great. Potholes are another story, very harsh and jarring. I now need a top spacer to gain some droop. Was hoping to get away without it as Greg @ PEG didn't think I'd need it with only 2.5" of lift.

1" top spacer w/ extended studs ordered.

Also goona pull my front sway bar off and see how it feels without.
I had the same issue with my radflos when I first installed them. The best solution I found was to install a 1.5" spacer on top that way you don't have to buy longer studs (the spacer has it's own studs). I dialed the radflos down and removed the front sway bar and it rode like a dream after that!

Just my .02
 
#25 ·
I have the same 650# Radflo Springs. I have the 1" Nisstec Spacer + Extended studs. I left the Radflos unchanged when I got them, and with that spacer I am at exactly 3" of lift in the front (well like 2 15/16" after the Hardcore bumper). The new studs were annoying to get in, but once I got them in installation was easy. I have no front swaybar and have been running this way for a few weeks. It feels great over deep potholes (although I'm not sure what is considered bad).

I would totally put the swaybar on if I was doing a long road trip or had to daily drive it. The X is only a weekend rig for me. It sucks on the highway. I don't like going over 65mph now. Even at 30mph+ it is child's play to get the traction control to come on if you swerve back and forth quickly. Keep in mind I also have mud terrains. Normal turns is not bad though if you don't mind driving slow. But it totally makes a huge improvement off-road - way less 3-wheeling!
 
#26 ·
Right now, for what it is, I feel it handles corners amazingly well. Im willing to give some of that up for some better offroad compliancy, since I do drive dirt roads almost daily. I live in a small mtn town too, so even though its a daily driver, I get to putt and take my time. I can see myself putting it back on for road trips though.
 
#32 ·
Installed the Nisstec 1" lift spacers last night. I noticed I still had additional unbound droop in the suspension (about 1/2" at the shock mount). So I added two grade 8 washers on top of the Nisstec spacer. With that the coilovers now hit full extension about 1/4" before the ball joints bind. So I should be using the full droop potential of my setup, just short of binding.

I backed the springs off 4 cranks each, and Im sitting perfectly level. I will be dropping the front down about another 1" to increase the droop more. As that was my original plan. Plus I dont mind a little rake unloaded.

I also removed the front sway bar but still to get a good feel for how it handles.

I will need to adjust camber and tow a little bit now to match new ride height. I have been holding off till I got the coilovers and ride height dialed in. Almost there.

Now just to upgrade my fog lights and and Im set through winter, mod wise.
 
#33 ·
So after adding the washers/spacers and adjusting springs, how much lift do you have in the front over stock? And how do you know when you are at the "binding" point when measuring?

Now just to upgrade my fog lights and and Im set through winter, mod wise.
yeah right, there is always stuff to do...
 
#35 ·
While taking a break at work I found a 4' Firestik Antenna laying at the base of a tree in a nearby alley. Has black soot built up on one side so I'm thinking it came off a delivery truck that got too close to the tree.

Looks like I've now started collecting pieces for my CB setup, sooner than later.
 
#36 ·
Just ordered a set of Auxbeam 90watt Led lights. I have plenty of close range light with my two sets of flood/fogs. With the spot/flood combo lense these should take care of everything else, hopefully. Planning to mount behind the grill or maybe on the bumper if they fit properly. But I know I've got plenty of room behind the grill. Plus I like the idea of sleek and somewhat hidden. The removable lens should help with cleaning them too.


https://www.auxbeam.com/70019546
 
#38 · (Edited)
So my leaf packs are a little worse for wear. Placing rubber in between the leafs has stopped the squeak for now. New packs in the near future.





I also swapped my shims from 3˚ to 2˚ in an experiment to stop a very mild vibration....It didn't work. What was a subtle at various speeds is now pronounced from 25-35mph. Enough so that its not tolerable. So I'll be putting the 3˚ back in. Will have basically brand new 2˚ shims for sale soon.
 
#40 ·
So far they are fantastic. Quality is great. The output is impressive, and the defuser lens actually works. Plus it keeps the lights from getting chipped up and dirty. I just got back from a 600 mile road trip with lots of rain, and so far no issues with moisture. They are a hefty light though. Each one weighs a good 4 lbs at least and have big fat heat sinks off the back. So make sure you got a way to mount them properly. Ideally to a metal surface otherwise they might shake some.

Im gonna try to get a photo showing the light output, but I dont have a good camera to do it right, so no promises on that.

Edit: I now see you got a front bumper so. mounting wont be an issue.
 
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