XB3 VK56 Swap w/M6 Build Project Thread - Page 8 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #71 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
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Press the brass bushing into the Driven Desire spacer. Do not use the VK factory spacer. INSTALL in this order: VK FLEX PLATE, ALUMINUM SPACER, CLUTCH FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH PACK, AND PRESSURE PLATE WITH ALIGNMENT TOOL. Torque flywheel to crank bolts to 65ftlbs and clutch pressure plate to 20 ftlbs. All in criss cross pattern. Leave alignment tool installed until ready to install trans.
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post #72 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch differences.
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post #73 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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The featured 350z clutch only has 9 pressure bolts. Xterra clutch had 12.
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post #74 of 120 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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I wrestled with the transmission for an HR only to find the trans input shaft wasn't sliding into the bushing. Apparently the bushing mushroomed or the inside diameter shrunk when pressed in. I used a sand disk and Dremel to hone it out. Aligning the crank sensor bracket, and input shaft is a struggle. I called it a night.
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post #75 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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I got the trans and engine installed in the X. I installed everything as one assembly with headers attached. In my opinion the Doug Thorley headers with 02s preinstalled clear better than the JBAs but I'm sure someone will argue that. Before I dropped it in I wrapped the headers to prevent damage during the install. I had a couple of surface scratches after installed.

This is one akward engine to install. The engine has a large top end so that limits the places to mount a crane. This doesn't have a place install a lift plate like on a Chevy V8. I believe the best tools to use are a 1.5 ton leveler with long chains and hooks along with 6' straps along the bottom. Using anything longer will risk damage to top end parts. I had to remove coil packs and move any wiring on the rocker covers to prevent damage when lifting. I also recommend removing the power stearing line with the sensor on top or removing the pump all together. You want as much side-to-side movement as you can get. Use a cheap oil filter like FRAM because it can contact the crane when moving. Install the fan clutch and serpentine after the engine is installed. The fins are brittle on the fan clutch and can break off if it hits the engine crane. Keep a prybar or crowbar handy.

The install of the engine and trans took 2.5hrs with a spotter. You want to go in with the crane at the highest it will go and with trans at the lowest point. The transfer does not leak out of the output shaft so no need to plug it with a rag or anything to catch fluid. I took the front wheels off and placed it on jack stands to get the vehicle even lower. The higher you can get the engine the more angle you can get. Then slowly inch it in and tilt the whole assembly as it goes in monitoring the header to engine mount contact and oil pan to front dif contact. I ended up removing all the bolts in the front dif so it would drop and allow clearance for the oil pan. It's easier removing the bolts for the dif than removing the oil pan and oil pick up. Once the trans is in the trans tunnel you want to support the transfer case with a trans jack. You will have to use the jack in conjunction with the engine crane to guide the whole assembly together to its finally resting place. And before you plant the engine mounts on to the frame install the bolts half way and drop it in, then torque them down. This prevents you from having to adjust the mounts with the weight of the engine to find the threads later.
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Last edited by kebler2005; 04-03-2019 at 10:40 AM.
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post #76 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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More pics...
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post #77 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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I also recommend wrapping the engine mount bushings with some header wrap or something to deflect heat.
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post #78 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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The hose on top you don't need to order like it says to on Off Road Gorilla's site. Just repurpose and trim the stock hose for the passenger side. The only hose you will need to order is the for the driver side coolant engine pipe and it's pic'd below by itself.
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post #79 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kebler2005 View Post
I also recommend wrapping the engine mount bushings with some header wrap or something to deflect heat.
now that's a good idea! i'll be doing that too now ;-)


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post #80 of 120 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the initial startup. I'm working out some clutch issues. It won't go into gear when the engine is running.

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