As promised, here is my "How-to" write up for installing PRG Motor Mounts on a 2008 Nissan Xterra Off Road. This is just the way I did it. Others have removed the two additional bolts on the Engine Bracket to help assemble the pieces outside the vehicle.
Either way, this is just a pictorial guide. I am not resposible for anything you do to your vehicle as a result of this. !!! SO REPAIR AT YOUR OWN RISK !!!
I took my Xterra to the Stealership the other year for a FREE Oil Change. They said I needed new Motor Mounts. They quoted me a price of $898.00. I told them, "Okay, I'll get back to you on that." So, I let it go for as long as I could - till the Radiator Fan started hitting the Shroud under heavy acceleration going up hill or when towing my trailer. I was waiting for Greg to finally release his new mounts - which, he finally did. I placed my order and recived the new mounts the follwing week. They were only $149.00
This is the Driver-side OEM Mount from the top:
This is the Passenger-side OEM Mount from the top:
This is the Driver-side OEM Mount from the bottom. As you can see, it doesn't look like a failed piece at all. Even when the Engine was raised, I still couldn't really see any visible damage. But, I did see Oil around the top of the mount.
This is the Passenger-side OEM Mount from the bottom. Same thing. No visible damage. Just a little bit of Oil around the top of the mount.
First thing I did was Jack up the Truck and put it on Stands to give me a little room so I could remove the Factory Oil Skid Plate. There are (4) 14mm bolts total.
Once that was done, I used a Block of Wood between the Jack and the Oil Pan to raise the Engine. This took little weight and pressure off the Mounts so I could loosen the bolts. There are (3) 17mm per side. (2) located at the top of the Plate and (1) from the bottom. More on those later...
Not being familiar with the OEM Mounts, I figured now would be a good time to mark up the new PRG Mounts while they were still Zipped tied together. You know, Justin Case.
This is really all of the Tools I needed to use. The top bolts are easily accessible from above via the Engine Bay.
But, I suggest taping your Sockets together so they do not separate in the middle. The (2) top bolts were a pain in the butt to break loose. I had to use my medium Torque Wrench for added leverage.
I also recommend using an Telescopic Magnetic Extension Tool. It made retreiving the top bolts from above much easier.
The bottom bolts were pretty straightforward - but, also very difficult to break loose. They run the entire length of the OEM Mount and are reused with the new PRG Mounts. More on that later...
Once everything was loose on both sides, I was able to raise the Engine some more, so I could start pulling out the OEM Plates. Driver-side to the back. Passenger-side to the front.
This is what the OEM Mount looks like on the Passenger-side. The little "Cover Plate" is a pain in the butt to remove. And, the overall Mount wasn't as easy to "wiggle out" as I thought it would be. It was easier to remove it by pushing it forward towards the front of the vehicle. Plate first, then the Mount.
This is how the Passenger-side looks with the Plate and Mount removed from above:
Here is a side-by-side comparison of the two Mounts. I think the PRG is actually thicker metal. And, the Urethane looks to have more room to move around. Granted, it is still supported in the center. So, I imagine it will feel more like a "Solid Mount" once installed.
Being as difficult as it was to "wiggle" both of the Mounts out of place. I figured now would be a good time to put a little Gorilla Tape on the sides to hold all the pieces/parts together.
It was a good thing I did - as the Passenger-side was a bit tricky trying to get everything in together in one piece. So, I put the Plate in first...
And then, put the top and bottom pieces in place from the front.
This is were that long Center Bolt comes in handy again - as you feed it up through the pieces and secure it in place.
The new PRG Plates have the same "Guide" Holes as the OEM Units. So once you lower the Engine back down, the Plates just kind of slide right into place.
Same thing on the Driver-side:
I used the Telescoping Magnetic Tool to place the bolts back where they belong on the Passenger-side and tighten them back down to 65 ft-lb.
I did the same on the Driver-side as well.
So after it was all said and done, I went to inspect the Driver-side OEM Mount. Yep, almost full failure on the top side. No wonder the Engine was almost hitting the Hood inside.
And, same thing on the Passenger-side too. And here, I didn't even think the Passenger-side Mount was bad. I guess it has a lot to do with the rotation of the Engine verses the Tranny and the opposing forces involved.
So, before you ask: No, I did not reuse this Stupid Metal Cover. It's not really a Heat Shield. It's not really an "Elements" Protector. Either way, it doesn't really line up correctly with the PRG Mount. So, I chose to leave it off. It's up to you if you decide to install it on your Truck...
Inspite of the heat, nows a good time to go out and give them a test run I spoze...