How-to: Overide M226 e-Locker - PBR - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #1 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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How-to: Overide M226 e-Locker - PBR

You will need to access the Wiring Harness at the Differential Lock Control Unit (DLCU). It may be easier to do this by removing the Driver-side Door Seal and the Knee Knocker Panel under the Steering Column.

Perform the changes on This Schematic. Operating Instructions and Warnings are on the Schematic.
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Last edited by Old Navy; 10-28-2017 at 09:37 PM. Reason: All Photophucket Links Resurrected
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post #2 of 173 (permalink) Old 03-24-2010, 05:55 PM
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Trust him, it works. Did this mod in about 15 mins. DLCU harness is kind of awkward to work on even with the lower steering column removed but it's easily doable....just uncomfortable when stripping and crimping.

Locks and unlocks within seconds, no more blinky while engaging/disengaging but who cares. Once that light comes on solid, carry on over the obstacle.

Thanks for doing the dirty work figuring this one out!!
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post #3 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-05-2010, 08:20 PM
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I know this is an old post but I am acutally looking into doing this mod this weekend. However I am not a big electrical guy and the 5 or six threads I have read discussing this didn't really answer this question for me soooooo:

Since you don't cut wires on pins 1 and 3 and you are splicing pin 22 and pin 11 respectively to these wires, did you use a simple T-tap to acomplish this? This is currently my plan but I want to make sure there is no gotchas due to things like road vibration (found a article cautioning againts wire nuts for this reason).

Thanks in advance for any answers.
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post #4 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-05-2010, 08:57 PM
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All I did was get some small butt connectors, cut the wires, twisted one end of 1 and one end of 22 together, then put the other end of 1 into the other side of the butt connector (makes sense right?). Same with the other splice. Been a long time now with no issues but I made sure to get a good crimp on the wires. T tap will work perfect.

-----{}=== like that
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post #5 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-05-2010, 09:38 PM
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when i got mine done. I just took some wire strippers and pulled back some of the rubber back. then i took a little awl tool and made a hole. I then put the new wire into the hole, wrapped the wires around each other, black taped it and then wrapped a zip tie around it. so you can say it's a T tap but more reliable cause it's more solid connection that doesn't come loose.
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post #6 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-05-2010, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dark_knight View Post
All I did was get some small butt connectors, cut the wires, twisted one end of 1 and one end of 22 together, then put the other end of 1 into the other side of the butt connector (makes sense right?). Same with the other splice. Been a long time now with no issues but I made sure to get a good crimp on the wires. T tap will work perfect.

-----{}=== like that


Thank your sir. I think I will do T-taps mainly because I like the simplicity and the fact that it looks like a clean wiring job. Of course on youtube they showed you with dummy wires on a desk, for this mod I will be working under the dash so hopefully I can also do it as cleanly
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post #7 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-05-2010, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sass View Post
when i got mine done. I just took some wire strippers and pulled back some of the rubber back. then i took a little awl tool and made a hole. I then put the new wire into the hole, wrapped the wires around each other, black taped it and then wrapped a zip tie around it. so you can say it's a T tap but more reliable cause it's more solid connection that doesn't come loose.
-sass

As cool as this sounds I think this is above my skill level. I think I would have to get some dummy wire and practice over and over before I could do this respectably working under a dash. But thank you for sharing how you acomplished the mod.
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post #8 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 09:29 PM
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can anyone comment as to what the actual wire size is on the wires to the DLCU? The print on the wire isn't legible and I want to make sure to use the right size connectors.
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post #9 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 10:31 PM
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I believe they are a 18 to 20 gauge stock size.
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post #10 of 173 (permalink) Old 11-06-2010, 11:40 PM
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Out of the usuall yellow/large blue/med red/small t-taps, you want the red. The stock wires are small, like 20 gauge or so.
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