How-to: Overide M226 e-Locker - PBR - Page 18 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #171 of 180 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 06:18 PM
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The plunger-sensor (which detects whether or not diff is locked) in my rear diff is out of alignment again, so when my rear E-locker is on, the light flashes 100% of the time and never goes solid.

I'm wondering if I did this mod - will the light be solid with the switch on (regardless of whether the diff is actually locked) and the light stays off with the switch off (regardless of whether the diff is actually UNlocked)?

I basically want my dash light to behave like an indicator light for switch position, but I'm worried this may not work because of my plunger sensor being wrong.

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Last edited by AlbatrossCafe; 10-17-2018 at 06:20 PM.
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post #172 of 180 (permalink) Old 10-20-2018, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AlbatrossCafe View Post
The plunger-sensor (which detects whether or not diff is locked) in my rear diff is out of alignment again, so when my rear E-locker is on, the light flashes 100% of the time and never goes solid.

I'm wondering if I did this mod - will the light be solid with the switch on (regardless of whether the diff is actually locked) and the light stays off with the switch off (regardless of whether the diff is actually UNlocked)?

I basically want my dash light to behave like an indicator light for switch position, but I'm worried this may not work because of my plunger sensor being wrong.
The mod won't cure your indication issue. All that I suspect will happen is that you will have an engaged locker without indication due to the position switch in the diff being stuck in the non engaged position.

[W6ORV] 2M/70CM Icom Mobile Dual Band / CB / 60 Amp Aux Power Buss / Front Suspension - Fabtech 6" Lift w/ Radflo COS's & 650# Eibachs / Rear Suspension - SOA Conversion, Deaver AAL & PRG Lift Brackets, Fox 2.0 Res / Tom Woods Double Cardan 1310 Driveshaft / BTF Diff Cover / Anytime M226 Rear Locker Mod
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post #173 of 180 (permalink) Old 10-22-2018, 12:23 PM
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The mod won't cure your indication issue. All that I suspect will happen is that you will have an engaged locker without indication due to the position switch in the diff being stuck in the non engaged position.
damn... that is annoying. Alright thanks.

I wonder if there is a way to rewire it how I wanted. I just want the dash light to come on when the switch is on whether or not it is actually locked.

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post #174 of 180 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 02:23 PM
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Do you still have this DLCU available or did you sell it already? I am interested
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post #175 of 180 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 10:25 AM
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For what it's worth, I followed the DLCU module (not the wiring) modification as posted in this thread and it works perfectly, but the indicator light does not come on. I confirmed engagement of the lock by electrical checks in all conditions of transfer case but the light is clearly no longer in the circuit. I am not sure how some people seem to say the light still works after the mod and others don't. The light is either still part of the circuit or it isn't. I have no idea in the case of the wiring mod but I doubt it's different in any way. In my case, I also did a gear swap so I had the whole diff apart and had to replace the feedback switch (broke by stupid mistake during pinion install) as well the internal solenoid connector where it had fused to the case and broke on disassembly. So I knew I had everything in position on the re-assembly.
If you don't have the light working and want to test, you can check signal to the solenoid with a voltmeter simply looking for battery voltage at the harness terminals when the switch is on and check the lock engagement by looking for continuity on the feedback switch connector when the switch is on and open circuit when the switch is off (you obviously have to reconnect the solenoid for this step). I suppose you might have to move though some gears fwd, rev and neutral if the latter test fails at first, just to make sure it is in a free position to engage (this is the cause for the blinking light followed by solid indication on a stock DLCU).
Anyhow, I will search for a method to restore the indication. Worst case you could bypass everything and give the light its own circuit through the feedback switch on the diff.

Last edited by WCoyote; 04-10-2019 at 11:56 AM.
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post #176 of 180 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 12:54 PM
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Worst case you could bypass everything and give the light its own circuit through the feedback switch on the diff.
I was wanting to just tie the light to the switch itself. If it is not gonna work as intended, I just want it to turn on when the switch is on.

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post #177 of 180 (permalink) Old 04-13-2019, 01:05 PM
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My light problem turned out to be a bent pin #20. But I figured a few things out along with way with wiring diagrams in the manual. First, there are two warning/indicator lights that don't come on in test mode when turning the key to "ON" = this differential lock indicator and the ATP light (automatic transmission park failure). So if you just want to test and make sure the differential lock light is functional just short the harness terminal 21 to ground with the key "on" and it should light. As far as the mod goes, the pin 9 to pin 12 jumper allows mode switch position on to send power directly to the lock solenoid (full bypass of all circuitry. The 3-11 jumper completes the solenoid circuit to ground. The 1-22 jumper just sends power back to the mode switch "off" pin. This appears to be a useless step, but I didn't cut it to see what would happen without it. The 20 to 21 jumper is indeed a full bypass from the light wiring through the feedback switch in the diff to ground. These are the smallest pins that get soldered, side by side, so the highest risk of softening the plastic from the heat especially if done right after the other. I remember checking things after the first plug-in but obviously missed the bent pin. I didn't find it until I finally stopped laying upside down and just took the unit out again. I know this is a really old mod but for anyone still doing it, it's easy and straightforward and I would recommend just doing the wiring mod version. Enjoy...
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post #178 of 180 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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@WCoyote

From the mod wiring diagram

"Jumper Pin 22 Green connector side to splice into Pin 1 White w/ Green. Power into Pin 22 tells the DLCU that the selector switch is always in the off position"

[W6ORV] 2M/70CM Icom Mobile Dual Band / CB / 60 Amp Aux Power Buss / Front Suspension - Fabtech 6" Lift w/ Radflo COS's & 650# Eibachs / Rear Suspension - SOA Conversion, Deaver AAL & PRG Lift Brackets, Fox 2.0 Res / Tom Woods Double Cardan 1310 Driveshaft / BTF Diff Cover / Anytime M226 Rear Locker Mod
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post #179 of 180 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 08:41 PM
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Ok, interesting. But why? The DLCU is fully bypassed at that point. Just to fake out the CAN comms?
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post #180 of 180 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, interesting. But why? The DLCU is fully bypassed at that point. Just to fake out the CAN comms?
I will answer this with "most probably". I wrote this mod in 2008. If I pulled the Nissan prints out and re traced everything I might give you a definitive answer. With an aviation background, the intent of the mod was for the CAN system to sense unlocked and unselected at all times and to prevent warning lights associated with the locker being used out of the DLCU's factory parameter.

[W6ORV] 2M/70CM Icom Mobile Dual Band / CB / 60 Amp Aux Power Buss / Front Suspension - Fabtech 6" Lift w/ Radflo COS's & 650# Eibachs / Rear Suspension - SOA Conversion, Deaver AAL & PRG Lift Brackets, Fox 2.0 Res / Tom Woods Double Cardan 1310 Driveshaft / BTF Diff Cover / Anytime M226 Rear Locker Mod
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