How-to: Change Oil Cooler Hose (Coolant Return to Engine) - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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How-to: Change Oil Cooler Hose (Coolant Return to Engine)

After ordering some special pliers I was ready to take this on again for round 2 and this time I was able to change the hose successfully in an hour and a half or so. Here’s what you’ll need for the job and how to do it:

• Crescent PSX204C X2 Long Reach Plier Set.
• Nissan Hose Part# 21306-EA200. On the part diagram picture this will be listed as 21308.
• Long flat tip screwdriver (At least 12”).
• Some kind of work light to illuminate the engine bay
• A small flashlight, two is better. It's very hard to see down where you'll be working.
• A magnetic pick up tool in case you drop something down there because otherwise you won’t get it back.
• Metric socket set starting at least at 10mm along with a short extension.
• Valve Cover to Valve Cover Hose Part # 11826-EA200 (Recommended)
• Valve Cover to Intake Hose Part # 11826-ZL80B (Recommended)
• A few cups of distilled water, you won't lose hardly any coolant doing this hose but on the safe side have some on standby.


Step 1 Removing stuff in the way

Remove the engine cover if you have one, two 10mm bolts. Remove air intake-loosen two clamps, remove 2 10mm bolts, and remove pcv valve cover to intake hose. If your truck is older this hose may crack on you, I’d recommend replacing it during this job as its a cheap part. Remove the bracket for the air intake that's bolted to the engine, two bolts, I think 13 or 14mm. Remove bolts from VIAS so that you can rotate it out of the way, the extra clearance will help you a lot with getting a flashlight to shine where you are working. Next unbolt the metal tube that connects to the hose we’re replacing, it has two bolts. Also remove the evap hose that runs over to the throttle body that’s in the way and the valve cover to valve cover pcv hose, this one will definitely crack on older trucks so buy that in advance to replace.


Step 2 Getting the hose out

There isn’t any special order here to do this, it will take some patience and switching between different pliers, but here’s what worked for me. First pull the metal tube out of the hose you’re replacing. This will make it easier to maneuver the hose to get the upper clamp off and out. I used a long flat tip to push the hose to the side from one angle and at the same time used the needle nose pliers to grab the clamp and pull it off. With that off you’re halfway there.
Now use the regular needle nose to grab the hose and pull at it some. It probably won’t budge which means it’s time to cut it in half. The hose should tear pretty easily or you could use a razor blade at the end of your pliers to cut it but what you want is to get it in half close to the metal tube where it goes back into the engine. With that done it’s time to rotate the clamp.

Mine was installed facing the back of the engine which means you can’t reach it even with special pliers. What worked for me was to take the long flat tip screwdriver and wdge it slightly between the clamp and the hose, and then twist. If you do this a couple times the hose will rotate with the clamp on until it’s facing you. Now you can reach down and grab it with the needle nose. With the clamp out go back in and pull off the rest of the hose.


Step 3 Installing the new hose

This part is easy. First install the hose onto the metal tube that’s on the outside of the engine, the first one you removed. Make sure clamp is installed. Then take the other clamp and put it on the hose end going into the engine 1 ½” or so above the end. MAKE SURE THE CLAMP WILL BE FACING YOU WHEN INSTALLED! Now use that metal tube as a guide to manuever the hose onto the metal tube on the engine and the hose goes all the way on. I used the needle nose to grab the hose gently and help push it on. Emphasis on gently, don’t tear that hose or you’re in for all this again.

With the hose on the tube now use the needle nose to put the clamp down where it should be and you’re done! Well, except for reassembling everything you removed but even that won’t seem so bad because now you’ll know that this isn't’ a job you’ll have to try to do on the side of the trail somewhere!








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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-31-2018, 10:48 PM
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Thanks. Great post. I imagine many Xterra owners will need to be doing this soon.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 09:41 PM
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Awesome write-up! Thanks for doing that for posterity!
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 10:26 PM
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Talking Thanks!

Great post, made this a lot easier!
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 12:40 PM
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Thanks for the post! I recently did the oil cooler o-ring and the rest of the oil cooler hoses and when I had a look at the top hose
you replaced, I was like, "not doing this until it starts to leak". But after reading this, I will be taking a crack at it this soon.

General_Tarfun, Thanks again, you made a seemingly impossible looking job seem dooable.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1/3Titan View Post
Thanks for the post! I recently did the oil cooler o-ring and the rest of the oil cooler hoses and when I had a look at the top hose
you replaced, I was like, "not doing this until it starts to leak". But after reading this, I will be taking a crack at it this soon.

General_Tarfun, Thanks again, you made a seemingly impossible looking job seem dooable.
Haha I remember that feeling when I saw first saw it too. I didn't have those fancy pliers at the time and fought with it for something like two hours before taking a step back and thinking ok I need to get the correct tools for this one. I think it helps if going into it you know that it's not a quick easy job so you don't end up getting frustrated with it. GL with it though if you run into anything that throws you off just post it up here and I'll help out if I can.


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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 02:03 PM
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"Haha I remember that feeling when I saw first saw it too. I didn't have those fancy pliers at the time and fought with it for something like two hours before taking a step back and thinking ok I need to get the correct tools for this one. I think it helps if going into it you know that it's not a quick easy job so you don't end up getting frustrated with it. GL with it though if you run into anything that throws you off just post it up here and I'll help out if I can."

Will do and thanks. I did see a set of 11" hose pliers at Orielly. But not sure if they would even reach down far enough. I should be fine with the Crescent Plier set.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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I think the crescent brand are about 13", I remember the length being just about perfect for the job.


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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 03:23 PM
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One question I have - the pipe this thing connects to at the bottom - I assume its fairly substantial metal. The part about pushing the screwdriver in and twisting hasing me envisioning breaking that part off

I am going to do this, but since i need to swap injectors and valve cover gaskets anyway I have been holding off until I have time for them all at once.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-05-2019, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idn88 View Post
One question I have - the pipe this thing connects to at the bottom - I assume its fairly substantial metal. The part about pushing the screwdriver in and twisting hasing me envisioning breaking that part off

I am going to do this, but since i need to swap injectors and valve cover gaskets anyway I have been holding off until I have time for them all at once.
I think it's an aluminum pipe, about an inch long. The same material as the pipe connected to the other end of the rubber hose. The screwdriver I used was a long flat head with a thin tip so it easily pressed into the hose and twisting it took no effort at all. And that's on my 2006 where that hose has never been moved before so I wouldn't worry too much about it, that said if it feels stuck you can also try to move it using the needle nose pliers. I think the key with the whole job is to just be gentle with everything and avoid doing anything that requires a lot of force.


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