Front Sway Bar - Articulation Question ? - Page 3 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #21 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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I'll be removing my FSB soon. Another question related to travel since now freed up from the FSB removal. Is anyone running the SPC Radflo Eibach 600lb coilover kit WITH any added small spacer, like 1"? My coil bucket has been shaved, so no CBC worries, but what about CV bind at full droop?

Need just a bit more clearance. Thanks guys, again....

EDIT: Just talked to Greg at PRG since I got the Advanced kit from him. His recommendation since each truck is slightly different in susp tolerances plus these kits were made with safe allowances for longevity, is to measure:

a) jack up and remove front tire
b) remove lower shock bolt and let susp droop fully, make sure nothing is binding (coil bucket, FSB)
c) turn the axle MANUALLY until you feel the cv starting to bind, then come up 1/2", cv should be smooth again when turning the axle.
d) measure the shock mount on LCA to the shock bolt hole.
e) this measurement to give them the proper 'safe' spacer sizing to use. Per Greg he can make any spacer with this measurement.

Hope this helps. Don't just guess on what will work since each truck can be a little different.

Hey I'm also not responsible for any miscalculations here, measure yourself.

Last edited by X4dblduty; 05-07-2019 at 03:29 PM.
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post #22 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X4dblduty View Post
I'll be removing my FSB soon. Another question related to travel since now freed up from the FSB removal. Is anyone running the SPC Radflo Eibach 600lb coilover kit WITH any added small spacer, like 1"? My coil bucket has been shaved, so no CBC worries, but what about CV bind at full droop?

Need just a bit more clearance. Thanks guys, again....

EDIT: Just talked to Greg at PRG since I got the Advanced kit from him. His recommendation since each truck is slightly different in susp tolerances plus these kits were made with safe allowances for longevity, is to measure:

a) jack up and remove front tire
b) remove lower shock bolt and let susp droop fully, make sure nothing is binding (coil bucket, FSB)
c) turn the axle MANUALLY until you feel the cv starting to bind, then come up 1/2", cv should be smooth again when turning the axle.
d) measure the shock mount on LCA to the shock bolt hole.
e) this measurement to give them the proper 'safe' spacer sizing to use. Per Greg he can make any spacer with this measurement.

Hope this helps. Don't just guess on what will work since each truck can be a little different.

Hey I'm also not responsible for any miscalculations here, measure yourself.
This is good advice. The traditional wisdom is that you can't eek more than 3" of lift out of these trucks without titan swapping. But I'm running nearly 3.5" with no CBC or binding. There are a lot of instances where there are some extreme variances in these trucks.
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post #23 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apples491 View Post
This is good advice. The traditional wisdom is that you can't eek more than 3" of lift out of these trucks without titan swapping. But I'm running nearly 3.5" with no CBC or binding. There are a lot of instances where there are some extreme variances in these trucks.
With that set up at 3+, do you DD your truck, i.e. put decent miles on it? Another thing mentioned by Greg was, even if the CV is not binding the inner boot can be pinched enough to tear first. Boot should be in good pliable condition.
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post #24 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by X4dblduty View Post
With that set up at 3+, do you DD your truck, i.e. put decent miles on it? Another thing mentioned by Greg was, even if the CV is not binding the inner boot can be pinched enough to tear first. Boot should be in good pliable condition.
I DD it, though likely not as much as other people. I take the train to work so it's only used to commute to and from the train station most weekdays.
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post #25 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-07-2019, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X4dblduty View Post
I'll be removing my FSB soon. Another question related to travel since now freed up from the FSB removal. Is anyone running the SPC Radflo Eibach 600lb coilover kit WITH any added small spacer, like 1"? My coil bucket has been shaved, so no CBC worries, but what about CV bind at full droop?

Need just a bit more clearance. Thanks guys, again....

EDIT: Just talked to Greg at PRG since I got the Advanced kit from him. His recommendation since each truck is slightly different in susp tolerances plus these kits were made with safe allowances for longevity, is to measure:

a) jack up and remove front tire
b) remove lower shock bolt and let susp droop fully, make sure nothing is binding (coil bucket, FSB)
c) turn the axle MANUALLY until you feel the cv starting to bind, then come up 1/2", cv should be smooth again when turning the axle.
d) measure the shock mount on LCA to the shock bolt hole.
e) this measurement to give them the proper 'safe' spacer sizing to use. Per Greg he can make any spacer with this measurement.

Hope this helps. Don't just guess on what will work since each truck can be a little different.

Hey I'm also not responsible for any miscalculations here, measure yourself.
I have the same PRG lift as OP and had room for a custom 1 1/4" spacer. That gave me full droop without any chance of CV bind or ball joint destruction. Didn't even have to adjust the Radflos from factory 2" setting to get 3 1/2" lift and smooth ride over stock. Also got my config info from Greg when I ordered. Hell of a guy!! Ditto on the quote for variances in X specs. Measure your own rig, even if it's just to be in the know, cuz they're all unique. Now I think it's time to get rid of my FSB.
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post #26 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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FSB removed, oh yeah definitely feel the difference on cornering and sharp turns. Makes steering feel slower too. This is even with my Radflos w 600 lb springs, stock bumper for now. Will test droop and traction at Big Bear this weekend, White Mtn etc. Should help front articulation.
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post #27 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:33 PM
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Just removed my fsb few days ago. Havenít been out on the highway with it like that yet, but slower streets and housing tracks donít feel toooo bad. Smoother yes, but as my dd, Iíll need time on that. Full articulation isnít a big requirement on the street, unless I have to hop the curb to avoid the NY idiots. Too bad I canít lean into curves like my atv.


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post #28 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:37 PM
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I've debated this, but I think I do too much city driving, too many times where having to turn/swerve abruptly occur, and I drive too fast on the HW

"Well, my time of not taking you seriously is coming to a middle."

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post #29 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:53 PM
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Mine must be the exception that only improved across the board with it off. Weirdly I still have the rear on though.


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post #30 of 33 (permalink) Old 05-22-2019, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah it really depends on the most use, handling DOES change. I just came back from wheeling and FSB-delete first time helped quite a bit on flex and traction, happy with that! But, driving up and down those mtn roads did give more roll, sluggish, you do need to adjust driving style. And Iím already on Radflos 600lb springs. With stock spring at about 450lbs could be dangerous.

But, here was one observation I found. At first I aired up to 32 psi on my KO2s on the way down, steering and handling still sluggish. Then I aired up to 40 psi, recommended for daily drives, big improvement! Those taller sidewalls will make a difference with air pressure alone. Steering was sharper, handling less lean on turn-in. Worth a try.

- - - Adventures on 4 and 2 wheels! - - -
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