Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums banner

Trailer Wiring Modification Information Wanted

2K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  WxTerra 
#1 ·
Hello all,
I purchased a used 2010 Nissan Xterra (the WxTerra) with the factory wiring harness and hitch ... all works like it is supposed to from the factory (except the blown turn signal fuse I found ;-) ). I am looking to modify the trailer wiring ... if possible ... and was looking to see if anyone had any suggestions on an easy way to do it.

Background info / purpose ...
I am a Wx (weather) spotter/chaser here in Wisconsin and an working on a custom unit for the truck roof rack for my Wx instruments but need a constant 12v output (do not keep the Xterra running all the time, but need power all the time). I am not looking for a lot of things to be "left on the Xterra" when the Wx Unit is not installed (the reason for using the trailer connector - already utilize the turn/brake & tail lights using relays and such). I do have the unit made and installed and the setup works great ... when the truck is running. If I hard wire my custom unit (like for running high power amps or such) then I have wires strung around and not being used a lot of the time (when the Wx unit is not on the Xterra - ~1/2 the year). I want to be able to remove my unit and all the wiring for it, when I do not have it installed (my current setup lets me do this).

FYI ... I do have a background in electronics

Now I just need to find a way to "bypass" the "when running only" mode for the 12v to the trailer harness without a lot of chopping, splicing and such.
Anyone have any suggestions, or am I ... SOL ?

Thanks in advance everyone :)
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I think your making this too complicated. By memory, the rear cigarette lighter/aux. power socket is always on. It would be very simple to drop a pigtail from your Wx equipment down through the rear hatch and simply plug it in. Higher available amperage (10A) and shorter, simpler wiring.

Scott
 
#3 ·
I have been doing that, but was not sure about the wiring or power capabilities. Did not want to start pulling to many amps and burn the wires out to the front and then give myself more issues.
It is nice to have as little going out the back hatch as possible. I already have a few antenna cables, about 3 sets of 4 wire cables (for everything from the motor to raise the antenna pole mast to the rotor controlling the direction it is point that is on the mast to power for emergency flasher lights and flood lights) ... if I can get power outside, I can drop the amount of feed through wires down and just have control lines (in ideal situation and not the feed/power also) going outside ... less damage to weather stripping from un-needed pressure. Just trying to reduce what I have now.
The unit is not a simple 2 wire (+/-) needed or being used ... it is a bit more of a complicated setup and hard to simplify to keep the capabilities that are be utilized. Getting +12v outside when truck is off, would reduce what I have and simplify it.

What is the amps out capabilities on the trailer connector, if the cig outlet has 10? I thought it had a 15 amp, or was that for blinkers?

Thanks for the comment though ... did not know the capabilities of the rear outlet, so I know at least for right now, I am not hurting or in danger of doing damage as I have it.
 
#6 ·
Really easy, the relay controlling the power to the 7 pin tow connector is located behind the passenger side kick panel (just at the right of the passenger right foot)...

Remove the panel (by removing first the door sill) than unscrewing the plastic screw at the bottom of the footwell than pull toward the inside of the truck to unclip the panel.



You will see a harness with 2 or 3 relay, one of the relay is larger, this is trailer tow relay 2 in the schematic. As you can see, this relay's job is to switch the 12v to the trailer when the ignition is on.

Remove the relay and put some bypass wire between pins 3 and 5, pins 6 and 7 should also be connected.

Now you have 30A available anytime at the tow connector.

Et voila, no cutting, no soldering, easy to undo...
 
#7 ·
Thank you 20-100.
That sounds "exactly" like what I was looking for.

ducatidom & maillet282
I am trying to keep it as clean without any real permanent mods like that, unless I would be using the items all the time (like more roof lights than the stock ones), to make it worth it to put a new hole through anything. I will be keeping it in mind if I add anything like that.

Thanks for the comments and suggestions :)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top