Interesting Observation About XTP IMS... - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
View Poll Results: Do you need to constantly retorque?
Yes. 1 16.67%
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting Observation About XTP IMS...

First off, I love the IMS. I personally feel like it's one of the best bang-for-your-buck mods out there. The IMS currently on my X was purchased several years ago and installed on my old Frontier. This thread really isn't to complain about the IMS, just make an observation and see what everyone else's experience is.

I noticed lately that I've had to go in and retorque the manifold bolts every once in a while. I changed my oil and did a general pre-GONE look over this weekend, my manifold bolts needed retorqued again. I think I retorque every other month. I know I can't put tons of torque on them because I'll strip the head. The next time I do it, I think I'm throwing some blue Loctite on them. Has anyone else noticed this on their trucks, if you have an XTP IMS? I just want to get some observations from others about this, and put a warning out if you never checked yours out after the initial install.

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 02:05 PM
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Bet it doesn't include a bracket at the throttle body area of the upper intake manifold to replace oem? That helps support the manifold and by raising it up it won't reach its mounting points at the head.

Also, aluminum expands and contracts more than the surrounding plastic, so bet that contributes, as well.

I had a phenolic and didn't have any issues, but always wanted to fix the bracket issue...

If I can't get another one like that, going to make my own..aluminum is not the way to do the spacer on these IMO...probably acts as a heat sink, as well, and another reason most modern intake manifolds are no longer metal. Cost and manufacturability, also of course.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JNR View Post
Bet it doesn't include a bracket at the throttle body area of the upper intake manifold to replace oem? That helps support the manifold and by raising it up it won't reach its mounting points at the head.

Also, aluminum expands and contracts more than the surrounding plastic, so bet that contributes, as well.

I had a phenolic and didn't have any issues, but always wanted to fix the bracket issue...

If I can't get another one like that, going to make my own..aluminum is not the way to do the spacer on these IMO...probably acts as a heat sink, as well, and another reason most modern intake manifolds are no longer metal. Cost and manufacturability, also of course.
I definitely think the lack of a bracket is a contributing factor. I've been thinking about trying to fab something up to get a better mount point in there. I think expanding and contracting is probably the largest factor, though.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 03:31 PM
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use longer bolts, the ones that come with it only engage like 2-3 turns, longer ones more thread contact better holding of torque


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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Un4seen4 View Post
use longer bolts, the ones that come with it only engage like 2-3 turns, longer ones more thread contact better holding of torque
Now, that's something I hadn't thought about. Thanks.

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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:21 PM
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They are not the correct hardware length?

Fwiw, it would be better to use studs vs screws if you replace...not only less chance of stripping (can't recall if brass or steel inserts in lower manifold?) but you can properly use a lock washer...plus, makes it a better setup to remove and reinstall upper later.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JNR View Post
They are not the correct hardware length?

Fwiw, it would be better to use studs vs screws if you replace...not only less chance of stripping (can't recall if brass or steel inserts in lower manifold?) but you can properly use a lock washer...plus, makes it a better setup to remove and reinstall upper later.
The IMS came with longer bolts, they seemed plenty long but I never paid attention to how far into the head they went. 2 - 3 turns is technically enough thread engagement, but more would be better. The kit actually removes the studs and replaces them with bolts, I might have to look into that, too.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 04:50 PM
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Definitely put longer bolts in. When i pulled mine, there was only about 3/16" of thread engaged. That said, I had mine on for 70k and never had an issue with it coming loose. Bolts were still tight when I pulled it off the blown engine.

I did put the bolt for the intake plenum back into the bracket and tightened it down so it pinched the bracket below the hole it should have gone through (kinda hard to describe, but when installing, you will know exactly what I'm talking about). That was still tight also. Never moved at all.
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-08-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsexton View Post
Definitely put longer bolts in. When i pulled mine, there was only about 3/16" of thread engaged. That said, I had mine on for 70k and never had an issue with it coming loose. Bolts were still tight when I pulled it off the blown engine.

I did put the bolt for the intake plenum back into the bracket and tightened it down so it pinched the bracket below the hole it should have gone through (kinda hard to describe, but when installing, you will know exactly what I'm talking about). That was still tight also. Never moved at all.
Yep, I know exactly what you are talking about I do have that bolt tightened down to pinch the bracket. It seems like the general consensus is longer bolts.
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Last edited by RikRong; 05-08-2019 at 06:02 PM.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-09-2019, 11:49 AM
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option C. I've never checked mine after I put it on.
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