New Cats - ~100 miles Later 3 DTC Codes - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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New Cats - ~100 miles Later 3 DTC Codes

So i had new front cats put on about 100 miles ago- i don't drive it all that much. been a few weeks. i used eastern cataltyics. the guy who installed is a seasoned mechanic and a friend of mine.

the codes i got all at once are:

P0157
P0158
p0159

this points to 02 bank2 sensor 2 which seems to be drivers side rearmost (after primary cat) 02 sensor.

i pinged him and he said since it's behind the cat, it may be cat converter outgassing and to clear it and drive it and see if it returns.

thoughts?


i saw the ses light come on (1st time ever since i owned it brand new in 2006) and checked via my bully dog and it had those 3 codes. I cleared them while engine was running and drove the rest of the way back home- about 15 miles- with no light coming on.


do the cats need to age a little/break in more so that the outgassing isn't the cause? or is a new 02 sensor in my future?

OEM fog lights, Nissan Bug Deflector, Nissan Seat covers, Trident white a/c unit mod
Rear Timbrens, Flexible mudflaps, GY DuraTrac 265/75R16 C-rated, bil 5100 shocks front/rear, K&N 57-6014 FIPK, Flowmaster 40/custom y-pipe, vistapro radiator, bully dog GT
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 03:28 PM
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I had p0157 and p0158 set at the same time. It was a bad sensor.

I would check to see if he forgot to plug it back in or if the pins in the plug got corroded. Could be something simple like that.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsexton View Post
I had p0157 and p0158 set at the same time. It was a bad sensor.

I would check to see if he forgot to plug it back in or if the pins in the plug got corroded. Could be something simple like that.
if he forgot to plug back in, wouldn't it have come on almost immediately? i have driven it like 100 miles since the work. i just looked under there just now and it's plugged in fine. i am not sure if he even had to remove it to replace the cats. i will ask him.

he did say he had trouble with one sides's flange gasket when ui picked it up a few weeks back and said there were no leaks etc. maybe whatever he had trouble with, has opened up causing a leak?

is there any long term problem driving it with that code? like if i am 100 miles away, will it damage something if i drive it back home?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-04-2019, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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so i took it for another drive and collected some logs.

out of the 4 sensors, bank2 sensor 2 is the only one that is stuck at a certain voltage. that is .28v. it was stuck on that the whole trip of 20 miles or so. the light didn't comeback on BUT i checked for codes and the same three are pending.

I ordered up a NGK 24244 Oxygen Sensor of amazon.

the guy that did the cats said that if it's stuck at .28v, that means that sensor is bad.

if it wasn't plugge din, he said it would be at .450 steady. Not sure why it would read any volts at all if it wasn't plugged in..

should be here sunday then i will know after a test drive and watching the volts on that sensor.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2019, 05:46 PM
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Did he remove them? Perhaps he touched the sensor with his fingers (oils).

Also, they have to be fully tightened (ground).

To eliminate, check your fuses as if they touch something like a heatshield, upon running, it will short. Had this happen, although it blew a fuse that set off additional codes iirc.

And when it did set off code, and I replaced fuse, had to reset codes through reader then they never came back.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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what's the trick on unplugging the b2s2 pigtail from the trucks connection? i tried to get up in there and i can't seem to get my hand in the right position to unplug. And how do they unplug? Assuming you just squeeze and pull?

he removed the sensor end obviously but not sure if he unplugged the electrical connection or not. it seems pretty tight though i didn't put a wrench on it. Are you saying if the wires touch any metal it will short? i looked and i don't see anything touching any metal anywhere.

i am wondering if he just removed the sensor end, and let it hang while he replaced cats and maybe the sensor got damaged somehow or the wiring.

he's supposed to come over tomorrow once i get the part to install so we shall see....

OEM fog lights, Nissan Bug Deflector, Nissan Seat covers, Trident white a/c unit mod
Rear Timbrens, Flexible mudflaps, GY DuraTrac 265/75R16 C-rated, bil 5100 shocks front/rear, K&N 57-6014 FIPK, Flowmaster 40/custom y-pipe, vistapro radiator, bully dog GT
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 02:16 PM
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I believe when the metal portion that sticks up (where wires attach to the base) touches is when it shorts....ended up bending my heatshield for additional clearance and have not had issue since.

There were a lot of codes for both banks, so it probably isn't the same fuse, if there was one blown...mentioned it because it was an obscure fix, as I would not have thought a fuse threw off the CEL.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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just a quick update:

replaced o2 yesterday-

fixed issue.

he brought over his scan tool- some 4500$ device that checks EVERYTHING and he even showed me turning off an injector- cool. it showed the 3 codes i had found plus a couple others but they were things that happened way back-like tpms things.

anyhow, he didn't have to take off the rearmost o2 sensor- the one showing a steady .28v on my bluetooth obd II device/app when he swapped the front cats out a couple weeks back. so maybe it is just a coincidence it failed? or maybe something banged in the area when he was moving the pipe around to get to the cats. who knows.


anyhow, i ordered the ngk/ntk 24244 off amazon for 71$ free shipping. took him like 15 minutes to install. the connector disconnects by first removing the two halfs off of a metal tab that is attached to the vehicle. he bent the tab some to get a screwdriver inthere to release the tab. kinda hard to get to as the front prop shaft is there as is the skid- i removed the skid and that helped.


fired it up and it reads good now. i confirmed with my scanner/blue tooth thing after he checked it with his high dollar one.

he said the rear o2's don't affect fuel/air metering so you can drive it like that for some time. fyi- the sensor that failed for me was b2s2. bank 2 sensor 2. drivers side rear most sensor. the front sensors are not o2 sensors but rather air/fuel ration sensors....

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Rear Timbrens, Flexible mudflaps, GY DuraTrac 265/75R16 C-rated, bil 5100 shocks front/rear, K&N 57-6014 FIPK, Flowmaster 40/custom y-pipe, vistapro radiator, bully dog GT
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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just a follow up. i had the day off friday for my birthday so i decided to take the xterra on a longer trip. 103 miles each way to the closest mountainy hike i can find. no issues at all. no lights. no pendings. got 19.5mpgs on the tank- i started with about 47 miles on the tank so wasn't a ful tank of highway driving. not too bad.

a few more of those kinda trips and i will have confidence in the x again- though all the lack of confidence in her is due to my being proactive by replacing the cats- that were in like new shape by the way after 145k miles......

OEM fog lights, Nissan Bug Deflector, Nissan Seat covers, Trident white a/c unit mod
Rear Timbrens, Flexible mudflaps, GY DuraTrac 265/75R16 C-rated, bil 5100 shocks front/rear, K&N 57-6014 FIPK, Flowmaster 40/custom y-pipe, vistapro radiator, bully dog GT
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