Tear in CV Axle Boot - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Tear in CV Axle Boot

I was changing the front pads and rotors on my X yesterday and discovered the passenger side CV boot was torn, in what looks like a result of rubbing against the caliper at full lock. It spun out a good amount of grease already (gross) so this isn't a new issue and must have happened with the previous owner.

What are my options? I know a dry CV is basically a ticking time bomb, but do you think I need to get it fixed like, yesterday, or do I have some time? Do I need a whole new CV, or is replacing just the boot an option? And I'm sure there's no 'easy' way to do any of this without pulling the axle from the hub and getting all that gack out of the way, right? The car spent it's whole life in the Northeast, so if it comes to it, I may just skip trying to do it myself and take it to a shop, because it's pretty rusty.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 12:32 PM
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You already listed your two options. #1 Replace the boot. To do this you need to remove the axle and disassemble. Plenty of videos around to show you how. It's not hard, just fiddly, and messy. #2 Just replace the whole CV axle. Obviously the easier of the two options, since either way the CV must come out.

Replacement CV's can be had for under $100.00 although it is well know that OEM CV's are the best, and their price reflects it.

Now for my 2 cents..... If you wheel your rig, you should know how to do this, and if you don't know how, learn. If you don't wheel it, you don't have the tools to do the job yourself, and or the money to pay someone is in your budget, go that route. Further, not knowing the condition of the CV joint in question, the only to access it is to take it apart. You may find that is it fine, in which case you can reassemble with a new boot. If you find it questionable, you'll be buying a replacement, after you've made a mess.

And yes you need to correct this ASAP.


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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't gone wheeling (just got the car a little while ago) and I have no idea if the previous owner did (but probably not, based on the regular all season tires they put on). I have the knowledge and tools, but tools with an asterisk, provided it comes off without too much of a fuss.

I'm apprehensive because I had to replace a CV axle on my other car and, even though it wasn't terrible rusty, I could not get the axle out of the hub assembly. I had an air hammer, propane torch, three different types of axle pullers, and nothing. I ended up having to cave in and get it done at a shop and it took two days and they destroyed the hub in the process (which they replaced, of course), but man I do not want to go through that again.

Also, another question/concern I had was why the boot tore in the first place. Looking through the service history, that CV axle was replaced about 10k miles ago, but based on the price ($114) I don't think it was with an OEM one. Could it be the aftermarket replacement didn't actually fit right? It definitely looked like it came into contact with the back of the caliper.

Also, would buying a used OEM CV axle be an option? The cars new to me and I plan on keeping it for a while, but I don't feel good about spending close to $400 for an OEM axle right off the bat, especially considering I've already spent a decent amount getting the car up to snuff (brakes, fluids, etc.).

Thanks for the reply, I'm learning a bunch about the Xterra, so this is all really helpful to me.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarge21rvb View Post
I haven't gone wheeling (just got the car a little while ago) and I have no idea if the previous owner did (but probably not, based on the regular all season tires they put on). I have the knowledge and tools, but tools with an asterisk, provided it comes off without too much of a fuss.

As I said, they aren't hard, and they come out if you just grab the axle and and give it a good tug. See bellow

I'm apprehensive because I had to replace a CV axle on my other car and, even though it wasn't terrible rusty, I could not get the axle out of the hub assembly. I had an air hammer, propane torch, three different types of axle pullers, and nothing. I ended up having to cave in and get it done at a shop and it took two days and they destroyed the hub in the process (which they replaced, of course), but man I do not want to go through that again.

Also, another question/concern I had was why the boot tore in the first place. Looking through the service history, that CV axle was replaced about 10k miles ago, but based on the price ($114) I don't think it was with an OEM one. Could it be the aftermarket replacement didn't actually fit right? It definitely looked like it came into contact with the back of the caliper.

If it indeed contacted the caliper, something is wrong. The caliper and the CV stay in the same proximity to each other at all times. It could have contacted the shock I suppose.

Also, would buying a used OEM CV axle be an option? The cars new to me and I plan on keeping it for a while, but I don't feel good about spending close to $400 for an OEM axle right off the bat, especially considering I've already spent a decent amount getting the car up to snuff (brakes, fluids, etc.).

Yes buying used is an option, check the For Sale section here.

Thanks for the reply, I'm learning a bunch about the Xterra, so this is all really helpful to me.
See replies in red above.

To replace:

Jack up truck
Remove wheel
Remove LCA bumpstop
Loosen axle nut (32 mm)
Loosen and remove Tie rod castle nut on spindle
Loosen ABS line from keepers
Loosen brake line holder on spindle
Loosen and remove UCA castle nut. (be sure to have something or someone to hold it for you)
Take rubber faced dead blow mallet and smack the axle nut to loosen the axle from the hub.
Remove axle nut.
Bend spindle outward and forward to be able to push / pull the axle from hub. (be careful not to tug the abs line)
Hold spindle out of the way.
With both hands hold axle straight out from differential, and give it a good solid tug. (should pop right out)
If axle does not come out by pulling, you will need two 16"-ish pry bars get in between the inner CV housing and the seal flange. From opposing sides gently pry until it pops out.

Installation is reverse.

Be careful putting the new axle back in, make sure it is lined up before pushing it back into the diff. If it won't go in by pushing, put the axle nut on the end to fully cover the threads (nut flush with end of axle), and with the same dead blow mallet tap it fully in to the diff.

As for the rust.... plan the day, and spray all nuts to be removed with PB blaster or similar once a day for a few days before hand.


Last trip out we replaced one in a biblical style downpour in 30 minutes. Granted by now I've done this 9 times.

Take some photo's and post them of the current situation.


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Last edited by IM1RU; 09-29-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 09:17 PM
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You can try this as well. They claim that this boot lasts way longer than factory. Of course you can still rip them up, but if you have a steeper CV angle rubbing of the ribs might be less of an issue. Looks like nobody on this forum has tried them out yet however (or at least reported feedback). With their tool (a plastic funnel) you can put this on without taking the CV joint apart. They are a bit pricey though, so you might as well get a new CV shaft and avoid the greasy mess.

https://www.independent4x.com/MECATE...gle_p_141.html
https://www.independent4x.com/MECATE...-Kit_p_35.html
https://www.thenewx.org/forum/11-pow...-cv-boots.html
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-28-2018, 10:46 PM
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How bad are the generic replacement cv axles vs the oem ones.

I juts piled the cvs from my truck for the first time. It can out of the hub no promlem. That is 12 years sitting in there in salt country.

You can pull the axle nut and see if the cv moved back in the hub pretty easy. Then decide if you want to do the job.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 09:57 AM
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@sarge21rvb https://www.thenewx.org/forum/46-sal...ck-length.html


Sounds like you two should talk.


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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 02:01 PM
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I just remembered that there are these cv boot repia kits. They are 2 halves that bond together so that you do not need to remove the cv axle to repair.

Looked it them many years ago. Just Google cv boot repiar and a whole bunch of then popped up.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IM1RU View Post
To replace:

...
Thanks for the write up! I attached a photo of the tear for reference. I honestly have no idea how it tore, especially since it's only been on the truck for 10k miles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpulldown View Post
I juts piled the cvs from my truck for the first time. It can out of the hub no promlem. That is 12 years sitting in there in salt country.
This gives me hope, ha. Like I said, I'm kind of scarred from the last attempt at pulling a CV axle on another vehicle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IM1RU View Post
For sure! I'm gonna be pulling the wheels off next week to replace some bad caliper slider pins, so I'll do a more thorough check and see if the axle will even come loose before I buy anything, but I'll definitely keep them in mind!



Thanks for all the input. Definitely gonna see if the axle will come out of the hub next week when I'm in there doing other work before buying any parts, but a used axle looks like it's gonna be my best option. I think it spun out most of its grease and it's starting to make some faint creaky, clicky noises, so I'm just gonna replace it outright.
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File Type: jpg 2018-09-29 16.36.00.jpg (41.8 KB, 13 views)
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-29-2018, 07:29 PM
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Doesn't look like the usual tear to me, looks like it was melted.


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