COOLANT TEMP/ Yes I have Searched for Answers before Posting - Page 2 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ryandotson95 View Post
I don't really notice my fan kick on until 200-210 degrees so that definitely should help
When mine was recently going up to 230 on occasion I found the electric fan only working intermittently. It's fine unless the ambient temp is over 90 and I've being running for over 2 hours and I've got the AC on full. Even then, sometimes it kicks on and keeps in under 210.

It was either MD or VA where I had to pull over when it hit 250 that discovered that the electric fan had dead spots. At highway speed the wind must've been enough to get it going but in slow accident traffic the fan couldn't get going and the temp was not under control.

Anyway, just pointing out that an electric fan that mostly still works might really be worn out enough to need replacing. But hard to diagnose if it still works sometimes.
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 29erClan View Post
When mine was recently going up to 230 on occasion I found the electric fan only working intermittently. It's fine unless the ambient temp is over 90 and I've being running for over 2 hours and I've got the AC on full. Even then, sometimes it kicks on and keeps in under 210.

It was either MD or VA where I had to pull over when it hit 250 that discovered that the electric fan had dead spots. At highway speed the wind must've been enough to get it going but in slow accident traffic the fan couldn't get going and the temp was not under control.

Anyway, just pointing out that an electric fan that mostly still works might really be worn out enough to need replacing. But hard to diagnose if it still works sometimes.
that honestly seems to be the polar opposite of what is happening to me. I just drove to class and while going around 35 mph it hit 230 degrees too quick.. I noticed that the slower I go the cooler it gets and when I come to a complete stop it cools down to around 200-208 like right now its 201 degrees with the A/C on full blast. It is currently mid 80's outside.

I also just ordered the OEM cap and the 350z thermostat if those don't work and nobody has had this same experience then I will purchase a new electric fan.


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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 11:15 AM
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Something else to check: Have you driven through mud or muddy water? If so, rinse out the radiator fins. You would be surprised how much mud comes out of them.

I had the exact same experience as 29erclan with my e-fan at one point. It had dead spots and would not turn on when my temps were rising. Replaced the fan and everything has been good since.

I still think it’s most likely that you either have huge air pockets or the thermostat is malfunctioning.
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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 11:22 AM
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Interesting. I'm chasing a similar issue in my truck, although not nearly to the extent of your temps. Mine has been operating at a cool 192-199 but recently at freeway speeds in both 90 degree temps and 75 degree temps it seems to creep up into the 205-209. Recently hitting 219 on an extended pull up a decent grade on the freeway confirmed my worries that something isn't right. Now its a matter of chasing it down so I'll be interested to see what you do/find so I can check on it as well.

Things I've checked:
  • I've started by taking a garden hose to the a/c condenser and radiator to get rid of mud and crud that has built up in there. Have you done that?
  • Checked fan clutch and ensured its ok.
  • Check caps (mine seem to be holding pressure and the correct one is in the correct spot)
  • I've changed coolant and burped system multiple times, however I'm still suspect to there being air in the system. Check caps.
  • I changed out my thermostat and water pump with oem ones 30k ago, but this could still be the issue at being stuck partially open and not letting enough coolant to circulate or bad water pump vanes not moving enough flow or something.

Things I've considered but haven't changed:
  • At 12 years old, my radiator may need to be changed out for a new unit.
  • Possible hoses collapsing under load due to wear (unlikely but could happen).
  • Possibly back pressure due to original cats being old and clogged (unlikely as I think I'd notice power loss first).
  • Bad temp sensor.
  • Potentially a head gasket issue, however this is less likely in my case.

Anyone want to poke holes in this to help us out? I'm used to overheating issues while in traffic, not while on the freeway... The temps while offroading and in traffic have been nice sitting no higher than 195. It's on the freeway that it gets a little odd.
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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dmski View Post
Interesting. I'm chasing a similar issue in my truck, although not nearly to the extent of your temps. Mine has been operating at a cool 192-199 but recently at freeway speeds in both 90 degree temps and 75 degree temps it seems to creep up into the 205-209. Recently hitting 219 on an extended pull up a decent grade on the freeway confirmed my worries that something isn't right. Now its a matter of chasing it down so I'll be interested to see what you do/find so I can check on it as well.

Things I've checked:
  • I've started by taking a garden hose to the a/c condenser and radiator to get rid of mud and crud that has built up in there. Have you done that?
  • Checked fan clutch and ensured its ok.
  • Check caps (mine seem to be holding pressure and the correct one is in the correct spot)
  • I've changed coolant and burped system multiple times, however I'm still suspect to there being air in the system. Check caps.
  • I changed out my thermostat and water pump with oem ones 30k ago, but this could still be the issue at being stuck partially open and not letting enough coolant to circulate or bad water pump vanes not moving enough flow or something.


Things I've considered but haven't changed:
  • At 12 years old, my radiator may need to be changed out for a new unit.
  • Possible hoses collapsing under load due to wear (unlikely but could happen).
  • Possibly back pressure due to original cats being old and clogged (unlikely as I think I'd notice power loss first).
  • Bad temp sensor.
  • Potentially a head gasket issue, however this is less likely in my case.

Anyone want to poke holes in this to help us out? I'm used to overheating issues while in traffic, not while on the freeway... The temps while offroading and in traffic have been nice sitting no higher than 195. It's on the freeway that it gets a little odd.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seems like you and I are having really similar issues.. I actually have my grill off at the moment because I hosed down the fan yesterday.
I was hearing some slight gurgling after shutting the engine off when I had the wrong cap & after putting that 42 psi cap on the gurgling is gone maybe that has something to do with the boiling point increasing with the new cap? Either way I will post an update once I place the new 350z thermostat and the OEM cap on there.


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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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I had found through research that the spring cap on the radiator (the one that should not be there) wasn't pushing back enough to push the air out of the lines and up into the reservoir so that is probably what kept causing air pockets to form. With the new cap and new thermostat that you recommended I am thinking all will be well.


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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 01:22 PM
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If you are hearing gurgling after shut down, I believe that is a give away to having air/low coolant issue. Jeff has posted some great reads on here about how our cooling system tends to work so maybe read up on that. I'm not as well versed, but certainly learning quickly with this issue at hand as well. Let me know how that works out for you.

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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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I was hearing gurgling before I swapped caps but I no longer am so hopefully thermostat will fix the increase in temp at high speeds. I honestly don't know that I have ever had a constant temp below 200 in the last 3 years.


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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 29erClan View Post
When mine was recently going up to 230 on occasion I found the electric fan only working intermittently. It's fine unless the ambient temp is over 90 and I've being running for over 2 hours and I've got the AC on full. Even then, sometimes it kicks on and keeps in under 210.

It was either MD or VA where I had to pull over when it hit 250 that discovered that the electric fan had dead spots. At highway speed the wind must've been enough to get it going but in slow accident traffic the fan couldn't get going and the temp was not under control.

Anyway, just pointing out that an electric fan that mostly still works might really be worn out enough to need replacing. But hard to diagnose if it still works sometimes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsexton View Post
Something else to check: Have you driven through mud or muddy water? If so, rinse out the radiator fins. You would be surprised how much mud comes out of them.

I had the exact same experience as 29erclan with my e-fan at one point. It had dead spots and would not turn on when my temps were rising. Replaced the fan and everything has been good since.

I still think it’s most likely that you either have huge air pockets or the thermostat is malfunctioning.
@29erClan and @jsexton: How did you diagnose the intermittent electric fan problems given that the ECM commands are already intermittent? Or did you just buy/replace it and saw improvement.


I've been running hotter than I'd like lately in the 200F-222F range (Average 206-212) in traffic with ambient temp being 96F-100F and running my AC on max. I've put in a brand new Koyo rad, New OEM fan clutch, new OEM T-stat, new OEM rad cap and OEM degas bottle cap, flushed coolant, bled it before and after all this work, and cleaned the AC condenser.. Still sitting in traffic watching my ultra gauge going up 215, 220, 228 peak in traffic and 200-203F at highway speed. I've already thrown about $400 and 10 hrs of my life at it so whats another few bucks. Guess I'll buy and try, but I'm curious what clued you guys in.
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Last edited by Surf and Snow; 08-07-2018 at 03:48 PM.
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 08-07-2018, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Surf and Snow View Post
@29erClan and @jsexton: How did you diagnose the intermittent electric fan problems given that the ECM commands are already intermittent? Or did you just buy/replace it and saw improvement.


I've been running hotter than I'd like lately in the 200F-222F range (Average 206-212) in traffic with ambient temp being 96F-100F and running my AC on max. I've put in a brand new Koyo rad, New OEM fan clutch, new OEM T-stat, new OEM rad cap and OEM degas bottle cap, flushed coolant, bled it before and after all this work, and cleaned the AC condenser.. Still sitting in traffic watching my ultra gauge going up 215, 220, 228 peak in traffic and 200-203F at highway speed. I've already thrown about $400 and 10 hrs of my life at it so whats another few bucks. Guess I'll buy and try, but I'm curious what clued you guys in.
I can’t remember the exact temp, but over something like 210* the electric fan should be running non stop regardless of a/c being on or not. I would turn the truck off, spin it by hand, and start it back up. It would run until it kicked off when the temp dropped and never turn back on again.

Even when you are not hot, you should be hearing the e fan kick on very often when on max a/c. Mine never did.
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