Can you Guys Confirm that my Cats are Dead? Also, Longtube Suggestions - Page 3 - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #21 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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And thereís no way Iím paying for the original equipment cats, Iíll definitely do longtubes before i do that. But hopefully the eastern cats will last quite a while, I have other cars so I wonít put THAT many miles on the Xterra. I mostly drive one of my Miatas when the weather is nice and Iím doing a turbocharged gen3 V8 in an 82 C10 short bed.
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post #22 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mzsigler View Post
And thereís no way Iím paying for the original equipment cats, Iíll definitely do longtubes before i do that. But hopefully the eastern cats will last quite a while, I have other cars so I wonít put THAT many miles on the Xterra. I mostly drive one of my Miatas when the weather is nice and Iím doing a turbocharged gen3 V8 in an 82 C10 short bed.
Oh man reading that sentence I though you were about to say you were putting a turbo v8 in the miata!!
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post #23 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 12:06 AM
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Also suspecting a problem with Cats, no power, will not go over 60 kmph. New to an Xterra, bought at auction for cheap, body and suspension looked good, engine and transmission clean and not noisy. Bought cheap so prepared for a challenge. More challenging then I expected. Running okay but not the power I would have expected and very low pressure at idle with engine laboring. Started out replacing oil sensor unit, still dangerously low oil pressure at idle. At RPM oil pressure fine. Suddenly oil disappeared, no visible leaks. Changed oil and watched closely, oil levels maintained. Next day without warning, sudden loss of power, will not go over 60 kmph. Replaced oil gallery seals as low oil pressure at idle, did timing chains and water pump at same time, had oil pump but could not remove old one due to bottom protruding pipe that would have necessitated removing lower engine casing. Started up fine, good oil pressure at idle but still no power and multiple cylinder misfire code. Also showing fuel level sensor code so thought it may be a fuel pressure issue and changed fuel pump. Still no power. With disappearance of oil thought that it may have been a stuck PCV valve that blew the oil out the exhaust, checked and very clogged PCV valve so cleaned and reinstalled. Changed out the plugs as pretty fouled. Started up fine but still no power. Showing a bank 2 O2 sensor code so removed and cleaned. While under the vehicle noticed the primary cats on both sides appeared to have heated, looks like the edge seams are burnt out. The rear cats look okay but I am concerned that if the primaries melted down they may have pushed debris into the rear cats and possibly the muffler. Makes sense that a clogged exhaust system is causing the loss of power. Hoping that no more more damage then the exhaust has occurred. Planning to remove the exhaust system from the headers to the tail pipe and inspect and test air flow piece by piece. If I find the primary cats have melted down and are plugged will bore out, check the rear cats and do the same if necessary. If all runs well will proceed with long tube installation, complete cat delete. My guess is a clogged PCV valve caused the oil to be pushed out the exhaust and this melted down the cats, likely fouled up the O2 sensor at the same time. Does this make sense? Any suggestions on other things to check that would cause this extreme loss of power? I am trying to take the low investment approach and diagnose the issue before throwing more money at the vehicle. If the cat delete does not solve the issue I am going to order a set of 4 computer ECM modules, will make sure that I get the proper match for the vehicle type and features.
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post #24 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 12:19 AM
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post #25 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 12:49 AM
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had same oil pressure problem at idle and loss of power. later found oil coming out the tail pipe at the rate of 1 quart a day. turns out cats were breaking down to a fine powder problem is when you turn off the engine it sucks the powder in to the engine and rips the rings and cylinder walls up letting the oil blow by turning my first engine into a boat anchor. i am working on my 3rd engine as my second junk yard engine had timing chain failure even thow i had it replaced they never pulled the slacker adjuster pin out.
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post #26 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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Oh man reading that sentence I though you were about to say you were putting a turbo v8 in the miata!!
I might at some point, but I figure my first foray into turbo LS engines should be something with more room, lol.
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post #27 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 12:59 PM
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Also suspecting a problem with Cats, no power, will not go over 60 kmph. New to an Xterra, bought at auction for cheap, body and suspension looked good, engine and transmission clean and not noisy. Bought cheap so prepared for a challenge. More challenging then I expected. Running okay but not the power I would have expected and very low pressure at idle with engine laboring. Started out replacing oil sensor unit, still dangerously low oil pressure at idle. At RPM oil pressure fine. Suddenly oil disappeared, no visible leaks. Changed oil and watched closely, oil levels maintained. Next day without warning, sudden loss of power, will not go over 60 kmph. Replaced oil gallery seals as low oil pressure at idle, did timing chains and water pump at same time, had oil pump but could not remove old one due to bottom protruding pipe that would have necessitated removing lower engine casing. Started up fine, good oil pressure at idle but still no power and multiple cylinder misfire code. Also showing fuel level sensor code so thought it may be a fuel pressure issue and changed fuel pump. Still no power. With disappearance of oil thought that it may have been a stuck PCV valve that blew the oil out the exhaust, checked and very clogged PCV valve so cleaned and reinstalled. Changed out the plugs as pretty fouled. Started up fine but still no power. Showing a bank 2 O2 sensor code so removed and cleaned. While under the vehicle noticed the primary cats on both sides appeared to have heated, looks like the edge seams are burnt out. The rear cats look okay but I am concerned that if the primaries melted down they may have pushed debris into the rear cats and possibly the muffler. Makes sense that a clogged exhaust system is causing the loss of power. Hoping that no more more damage then the exhaust has occurred. Planning to remove the exhaust system from the headers to the tail pipe and inspect and test air flow piece by piece. If I find the primary cats have melted down and are plugged will bore out, check the rear cats and do the same if necessary. If all runs well will proceed with long tube installation, complete cat delete. My guess is a clogged PCV valve caused the oil to be pushed out the exhaust and this melted down the cats, likely fouled up the O2 sensor at the same time. Does this make sense? Any suggestions on other things to check that would cause this extreme loss of power? I am trying to take the low investment approach and diagnose the issue before throwing more money at the vehicle. If the cat delete does not solve the issue I am going to order a set of 4 computer ECM modules, will make sure that I get the proper match for the vehicle type and features.
Sounds like the cats have broken up and plugged up the exhaust (causing no power) as well as sucked cat honeycomb into the engine and scored the cylinder rings and walls (causing all your oil loss, burning into exhaust). Thatís probably why it was at auction. Needs a new engine and probably all 4 cat converts.

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post #28 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 01:06 PM
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aFe has replacement cats for $323 a piece. You'd still have to pay for shorties if you are in a carb area so doing Long Tube and eliminating two birds with one stone is cheaper.
No performance gain, but then you can cut out the secondary pipes and put the DT B Pipes in and put bottle resonators on them if you don't want a lot of noise. Then you don't ever worry about the secondary ones going out. I have a heat shield rattle on the passenger front cat that I've given up on fixing/diagnosing.
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post #29 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 02:10 PM
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aFe has replacement cats for $323 a piece. You'd still have to pay for shorties if you are in a carb area so doing Long Tube and eliminating two birds with one stone is cheaper.
No performance gain, but then you can cut out the secondary pipes and put the DT B Pipes in and put bottle resonators on them if you don't want a lot of noise. Then you don't ever worry about the secondary ones going out. I have a heat shield rattle on the passenger front cat that I've given up on fixing/diagnosing.
I think i have the same issue! i cant figure out if its the cat iself(material on inside rattling) or a heat shield but i cant find the heat shield. the thing that really concerns me is that it happens no only at start up( cold exuahst but sometimes at temp as well. I dont want to bang on the cat to hard out of fear that ill actually dislodge whatever is rattling in there and cause it to be sucked up in the engine. but i also dont want to just like it go an eventually have that happen. im currently saving for the timing chain job so replacing the cat is not something i want to do right now. any ideas?
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post #30 of 49 (permalink) Old 06-26-2018, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mtnbound View Post
I think i have the same issue! i cant figure out if its the cat iself(material on inside rattling) or a heat shield but i cant find the heat shield. the thing that really concerns me is that it happens no only at start up( cold exuahst but sometimes at temp as well. I dont want to bang on the cat to hard out of fear that ill actually dislodge whatever is rattling in there and cause it to be sucked up in the engine. but i also dont want to just like it go an eventually have that happen. im currently saving for the timing chain job so replacing the cat is not something i want to do right now. any ideas?
Mine only happens around units of 10 on the tachometer and never past 60mph. All the heat shields felt firm on that side
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