Limp Mode and 1757 Code - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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Limp Mode and 1757 Code

Hi everyone, Sorry if I there is a thread for this problem. I only found scattered info here and there, so decided to post on a new thread. I really appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

Truck is a 2005 4x4 S Automatic with 110K

THE PROBLEM: So I had been driving for only a couple of blocks when I noticed very slow acceleration and SES light comes on. I had come home from work earlier and the truck had been off for about an hour. So when this happened the tranny was probably not extremely hot or cold. I am getting a Front Brake Solenoid code 1757 any thoughts and recommendations are appreciated.



MORE BACKGROUND: I bought this car used with 100K on it and did not find any sign of SMOD in the coolant when purchasing. However, after driving for a couple of weeks I noticed a vibration when cruising around 50 to 70 mph. It was like going over rumble strips. I checked the ATF and it was contaminated with coolant. The car did not show any other signs of bad transmission so I decided to do the bypass and the poor man's flush.

After the flush and the bypass, I have driven the car for about 2K now. The rumble strip vibration has gone away, the ATF is clean and red and I was happy thinking that I have saved it ...until last week!

Last week the ATF hose connecting the tranny to the ATF radiator split open and about 2 gallons of ATF was sprayed all over the underbody! I replaced the hose and topped off the ATF and have driven the truck for about 100 miles since, checking the ATF level, there seems to be no leak. I have had trouble determining the correct ATF level since reading it from the dipstick is a little tricky and dependent on the ATF temperature. I don't have a temperature gauge so I have tried adding ATF little by little and checking before and after drives. So I might have driven a few miles with low or a bit too high ATF levels but nothing too crazy.

So now I am trying to guess what has caused the Limp Mode and how should I go about checking it.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:43 PM
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I would do another poor mans flush for starters. Btw, if your RPMs are over 2k when going 60, you should take your truck to a transmission shop. That how I found out that the previous owners SMOD was discreetly covered up and left me with no signs to identify the failure. I had been missing my fifth gear and torque converter. Never drove another Xterra so I hadn't noticed that that was not how it was supposed to drive. I had swapped out the trans fluid a little while before catching the failure and didn't notice anything of major concern or indicating previous SMOD when i did.

As for the code, little info when searching for it for me too. Good luck


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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 02:55 PM
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Check out my reply in this thread with the same issue. This may be the issue and it is an easy fix.

https://www.thenewx.org/forum/9-gener...need-help.html
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for suggestions, I do hope that it is the broken connection in the TCM. It is a messy fix, considering that I don't have access to a pit but it is the cheapest amongst all other possibilities. I did another test drive today and here are my observations:

1- It feels like the transmission is getting stuck in 3rd gear judging from the slow acceleration from stand still. RPM climbs up but no acceleration (like having a lot of slip) and then quite normal throttle response once I get to about 45 mph. I did not go beyond that speed.

2- If I keep it in 1st gear. It will remain in 1st gear as I speed or slow down does not go into that fail mode.

3- If I put in 2nd, it will go into fail mode.

4- Whenever I restart the car everything goes back to normal until I hit a certain speed (I think it is when it goes beyond 1st gear) and then fail mode again.

5- Reverse is fine.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 12:05 PM
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Those are really normal symptoms for the broken connector. If that is the problem, make sure the solder is done VERY well, my friends took a couple of times and he ended up adding a little wire around that corner for backup and support.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-09-2017, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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OK here is an update on my situation:

I took out the valve body and indeed it was the broken connection in the TCM unit. This procedure is documented in these videos below:





I soldered the connection and had to replace the solenoids too. Some of them did not come out in one piece because of previous antifreeze damage. I found a used set of solenoids and replaced them also cleaned all the connections and put everything back on. Now the car won't start at all, the started won't crank and I get U1000 and U1001 codes. Disconnected the battery and tried again no luck. Any ideas?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-03-2017, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k1mj View Post
OK here is an update on my situation:

I soldered the connection and had to replace the solenoids too. Some of them did not come out in one piece because of previous antifreeze damage. I found a used set of solenoids and replaced them also cleaned all the connections and put everything back on. Now the car won't start at all, the started won't crank and I get U1000 and U1001 codes. Disconnected the battery and tried again no luck. Any ideas?
Did you find a solution? Heck I believe the starter should turn-over even if the ECU is disconnected, lol. Maybe I am wrong? I believe the ignition barrel switches for the starter and solenoid/relay for the starter are all a dumb-basic wire setup except for the immobilizer system, that doesn't prevent starter turnover though. That's odd.

I'm about the tackle the same repair, though. Same code, similar behavior. If I shut the motor off, start, Drive, it drives beautifully, once it reaches 3rd gear the SES lights, makes its way to 4th, doesn't engage OD under any circumstances, ignores all manual shift selector inputs. When I come to a stop and resume driving, it's stuck in 4th limp mode of some kind. If I kill the motor, restart, the cycle starts over. If I limit it to 2nd gear with the selector, it drives fine around town (limited to 2nd gear) but what I do notice is upon lifting the throttle, it is not engine-breaking, it is in a neutral state when throttle is not applied, this doesn't set off an SES light while limiting it in 1st or 2nd gears but the lack of engine-breaking upon throttle lifting seems strange to me that it wouldn't immediately notice an issue.

Currently building on my custom computer infotainment system. Thread soon.

Last edited by steve500; 05-03-2017 at 01:03 PM.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-04-2017, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Hi, Yes this is very similar to my situation. After messing around with the fuses and ground connections I finally gave up and towed it to a transmission shop. The guy could not find anything other than TCM not working. So he replaced the TCM with a used TCM and it worked.

I think I might have damaged the TCM while taking the valve body out or putting it back in. One thing I did wrong is that I forgot to disconnect the battery before taking it out.

Also, when you are unscrewing the last bolt the valve body drops and if you don't hold it in place it will put a lot of pressure on the wiring harness. In my case, I was alone under the car and it was hard to hold the oily valve body with one hand and unscrew the bolts so for a brief moment it pulled down on the wires. I suggest you do it with a friend or support it in place when unscrewing.

The soldering part is the easy part cause the connections are apart from each other and easy to solder.

Another tricky part was taking out the solenoids. If you had previous ATF contamination like I did, your solenoids will be stuck to the valve body and won't come out in one piece. I broke most of them trying to pull them out and had to replace them.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-05-2017, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k1mj View Post

Also, when you are unscrewing the last bolt the valve body drops and if you don't hold it in place it will put a lot of pressure on the wiring harness. In my case, I was alone under the car and it was hard to hold the oily valve body with one hand and unscrew the bolts so for a brief moment it pulled down on the wires. I suggest you do it with a friend or support it in place when unscrewing.

The soldering part is the easy part cause the connections are apart from each other and easy to solder.

Another tricky part was taking out the solenoids. If you had previous ATF contamination like I did, your solenoids will be stuck to the valve body and won't come out in one piece. I broke most of them trying to pull them out and had to replace them.
Glad you got up and going ! I disassembled mine and found the broken lead to the front brake solenoid and did a good solder patch job on it, reassembled and ready to put back into the transmission and refill. I'll find out this evening what happens.

I agree with you there, that one last set-bolt lets go of that valve body in a hurry and that slippery ATF does NOT help when you're under there alone. I looked over my wire harness over and over again and also ohm checked each valve and also the connector to each valve to be sure no leads broke upon reassembly. We'll see what happens!

Glad you were able to get back up and going with a new TCM though, I'm shopping around right now just in case I need to get one ordered.

Currently building on my custom computer infotainment system. Thread soon.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-08-2017, 10:40 AM
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Disassembled my valve body and TCU and found the broken lead running to the front brake solenoid, patched it up nice with a wind of copper, stress tested it, voltmetered everything for proper resistance before buttoning it all back up.

Runs like brand new.

Currently building on my custom computer infotainment system. Thread soon.
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