How-to: Timing Chain / Timing Chain Guide Repair - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:14 PM
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Default How-to: Timing Chain / Timing Chain Guide Repair

some thing I suggest you get.

factory service manual
TSB for the timing chain
extremely long needle nose pliers
a friend to help

1.follow the FSM on taking the timing cover off. There are 24 bolts holding the timing cover on, there is a specific order in which the bolts need to come off, also bolts 24 & 25 are longer than bolts 1-23. You will also have to take the oval shape cam covers off first, exposing the cam gear sprockets


- the main crank shaft pulley can be taken off w/o the nissan fly wheel stopper tool. Put truck in 4lo / 6 gear before you disco the battery. Get a impact wrench to loosen then bolt.If that does not work have friend get in the truck and stomp on the brakes while you use a breaker with a cheater bar to break free the nut. After that the main crank pulley should slide right now.

2. Pull the timing case off. There are two points on top of the case that you can shove a screw driver in to start loosening the case/ break free from the ton of RTV nissan used to seal the case. Slowly work your way around the case from top to bottom. There are two dowel pins holding the case onto the block you need to be aware of.

- once the case off, clean all the RTV off the timing case. This part took the longest. As you can see from the grooves in the case, it is a PITA depending on how anal you get on the things.

I uses a 5 in one painters tool, razor, small screw driver, and red scouring pads for the clean up.


3. Mark everything with white out the position of the cam gears

Once marked you can loosen the cam shaft bolts. Make sure to loosen all 4 while all 3 chains are still on or you will screw up your timing

- once you loosen all 4 cam shaft sprocket bolts, take off the main timing chain. That will expose the secondary chains in which you can slide off the cam gears to expose the tensioners. MAKE SURE ALL THINGS ARE MARKED BEFORE YOU TAKE OFF THE CHAINS


4. Replace the tensioners/ secondary timing chains. I made my own tool to install them instead of buying the nissan specific tool



- once the guides are back on reassemble make sure all the cam gears are still lined up to your marks. Once all 3 timing chains are back on, you can tighten the cam gear sprocket bolts

5. RVT the timing chain case / cam sprocket covers and put everything back on in reverse order

Tips and random advice

- bolt 1 under the oil pan does not come out all the way because of the power steering rack. Just get it out as far as you can.
- Instead of using the 3 bond stuff nissan recommends, I suggest using the Permtex the good stuff rtv in a can. Much easier to work with than the tube of 3 bond.
- Both power steering / alternator have bushings that need to be reseated before they will fit on the bracket
- power steering pump has a nut that you cannot put back on from the front. Have a friend stick his/her arm into the wheel well, and have them hold the nut in place while you screw the power steering pump back on.
-replace the lower radiator hose /water pump while youre doing this job. Both are pita to get to other wise.
- when replacing the water pump, you will need 2 extra long sized metric bolts to pull the water pump out

Last edited by snutty; 03-25-2011 at 07:20 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2011, 01:25 AM
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good write up
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2011, 04:56 PM
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great work! thanks for this. i will use it when i comes time to do mine.
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snutty View Post
some thing I suggest you get.

factory service manual
TSB for the timing chain
extremely long needle nose pliers
a friend to help

1.follow the FSM on taking the timing cover off. There are 24 bolts holding the timing cover on, there is a specific order in which the bolts need to come off, also bolts 24 & 25 are longer than bolts 1-23. You will also have to take the oval shape cam covers off first, exposing the cam gear sprockets


- the main crank shaft pulley can be taken off w/o the nissan fly wheel stopper tool. Put truck in 4lo / 6 gear before you disco the battery. Get a impact wrench to loosen then bolt.If that does not work have friend get in the truck and stomp on the brakes while you use a breaker with a cheater bar to break free the nut. After that the main crank pulley should slide right now.

2. Pull the timing case off. There are two points on top of the case that you can shove a screw driver in to start loosening the case/ break free from the ton of RTV nissan used to seal the case. Slowly work your way around the case from top to bottom. There are two dowel pins holding the case onto the block you need to be aware of.

- once the case off, clean all the RTV off the timing case. This part took the longest. As you can see from the grooves in the case, it is a PITA depending on how anal you get on the things.

I uses a 5 in one painters tool, razor, small screw driver, and red scouring pads for the clean up.


3. Mark everything with white out the position of the cam gears

Once marked you can loosen the cam shaft bolts. Make sure to loosen all 4 while all 3 chains are still on or you will screw up your timing

- once you loosen all 4 cam shaft sprocket bolts, take off the main timing chain. That will expose the secondary chains in which you can slide off the cam gears to expose the tensioners. MAKE SURE ALL THINGS ARE MARKED BEFORE YOU TAKE OFF THE CHAINS


4. Replace the tensioners/ secondary timing chains. I made my own tool to install them instead of buying the nissan specific tool



- once the guides are back on reassemble make sure all the cam gears are still lined up to your marks. Once all 3 timing chains are back on, you can tighten the cam gear sprocket bolts

5. RVT the timing chain case / cam sprocket covers and put everything back on in reverse order

Tips and random advice

- bolt 1 under the oil pan does not come out all the way because of the power steering rack. Just get it out as far as you can.
- Instead of using the 3 bond stuff nissan recommends, I suggest using the Permtex the good stuff rtv in a can. Much easier to work with than the tube of 3 bond.
- Both power steering / alternator have bushings that need to be reseated before they will fit on the bracket
- power steering pump has a nut that you cannot put back on from the front. Have a friend stick his/her arm into the wheel well, and have them hold the nut in place while you screw the power steering pump back on.
-replace the lower radiator hose /water pump while youre doing this job. Both are pita to get to other wise.
- when replacing the water pump, you will need 2 extra long sized metric bolts to pull the water pump out

I am replying regarding the tensioners and or guides. Are the tensioners the metal part that the plastic guides attach to? Based on your pics, the new one is yellow and solid (right side of last pic)whereas the old one is brown and sort of hollow (left side of your last pic).

The reason I ask is because I had this work done under warranty and want to know if i have the updated parts or not. On my work order I have:

Part: 13070-ZK01A and ZK01B

among all the other chains/seals etc.


I looked on courtesy and see this when i search for the above part number:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/tensioner-p-581301.html


That looks like the same part you replaced along with the metal part, looks like you just replaced the plastic guides? Is that the problem with the wining? The old hollower plastic pieces?


My work was done under the tsb NTB07-4-2A

Am I good?

thanks!!!
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2011, 12:39 PM
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silverflash silverflash is offline
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Looks like the tsb from november 2009, ntb09-128, has this shoe part number:

13097-ZK01C

Here is the complete parts list:
PARTS INFORMATION
DESCRIPTION
PART NUMBER
QTY
Engine Oil Filter
15208-9E000
1
Drain Plug Washer
11026-01M02
1
Secondary Timing Chain
13028-ZK01C
2
Tensioner Shoe
13097-ZK01C
2
O-Ring, Front Cover
15066-2Y510
2
O-Ring, Front Cover
15066-5E510
2
Crank Shaft Seal
13510-7Y000
1
ThreeBond 1217F (sealant)
999MP-1217FPP
(1) (2)
(1) As needed (shop supply).
(2) ThreeBond 1217F (sealant) is available from the Nissan Direct Ship Chemical Care Product Program: Phone 1-800-811-0502, Fax 1-770-218-0148, Website order link via dealer portal www.NNAnet.com or direct www.NissanChemicals.com



I looked on courtesy and came up empty. I am assuming that is the yellow piece that replaced that brown plastic piece?

Which tsb did you follow? Did you replace the metal part as well as that plastic part?

Looks like in my case, the part they replaced in the older tsb was the complete tensioner that came with the plastic part as well?




thanks!

Last edited by silverflash; 03-27-2011 at 12:43 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-27-2011, 01:00 PM
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ok, looks like i answered my questions. I have found that the chains are also different between the two latest tsbs. It looks like nissan in the ntb0704-2a tsb replaced the complete tensioner assembly which included updated shoes. The chains were also replaced but it doesn't say if that is new better/less hostile to the shoe chain or not. I am assuming they are still hostile.

Based on what I have read here and on clubfrontier, it looks like the chain they used still would affect the new shoe design in a bad way. Maybe not as bad as the original hollow shoe.

So, with that said, how long would you think what i have last in terms of miles? What is the average life of the old setup? I would assume i have more life with the new shoe/not as good chain combo as compared to the original factory setup but would eventually fail as the chain still eats into the shoe.

I have zero issue noise-wise now. I may try to get the dealer to redo the job with new tsb but wonder what my chances of that are? I have till december for warranty. Has anybody done that?


Seems like this issue is a bad design and not normal wear and tear.
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2011, 03:23 PM
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snutty snutty is offline
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I went 70k miles are so till I started hearing the noise, and drive it till 111k till I finally replaced it.

Hopefully the updated guides will do better, they seemed to be maybe made up a newer material also.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:24 PM
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Also I didnt even know there was a updated TSB on the thing, I just got all the parts from the tsb you listed in this tread
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Old 03-27-2011, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snutty View Post
Also I didnt even know there was a updated TSB on the thing, I just got all the parts from the tsb you listed in this tread
which tsb did you follow? ntb0704-2a or the other one?
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:44 PM
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ntb09-128
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