The clutch interlock switch was only an option for the OR model. Anyone know if it is possible to add it to a "S" model?
If anyone has their dash apart, mind taking a pic of the switch connection and/or note the wire colors? I know there is an extra harness in there, not sure what it is for, but maybe I'll get lucky!
You can do it, its stupid simple. I can't remember which wires it was, but I will look tomorrow morning when there is light out. I'll even take a peeeeeture.
The Coolerman's Clutch link above says this is for a 5 speed manual only. Has anyone tried it on a newer 6 speed? My '11 doesn't have a Clutch Interlock Switch and it would be nice to have one from what I have read about it.
It allows you to start the truck without depressing the clutch pedal ... so you could, theoretically, start the truck in gear and not have to worry about a roll back/forwards to get going again. In essence, not having to feather the clutch through a rock garden if you happen to stall it ... which is a good way to take a couple of thousand miles off of the clutch's life.
The clutch start button allows you to start your truck w/o depressing the clutch pedal. Normally, when the clutch pedal is depressed, it presses a switch that allows the engine to start (safety feature, same as pressing the brake in an automatic). If the clutch pedal is not completely depressed, no start. With your X ignition key turned to on, press the clutch start button until it lights. Now you can turn the key to start and the engine will fire. If you are neutral, engine starts and truck stands still. Put truck in first gear and do the same thing and the engine starts and truck starts to crawl (especially in 4 Lo and locker on).
This routine is great if you are off roading and stall negotiating a hill or a rock. If you had to restart with clutch in and then start easing out the clutch, you may roll back a bit while getting your foot off the brake and over to the gas pedal before you get going forward. This might be just enough to get you stuck, or slide off a rock, or off the trail with disasterous results. Makes you wish you had bought an automatic with a hill lock. This is when you use your clutch start button. With the clutch out and shifter in first, you don't need the brake. Just turn the key and you go forward. No rolling back at all. You can even bump the starter just a little to move ever so slightly without completely starting the engine. Best to try it out in your driveway or an empty paking lock before trying this maneuver in a sticky situation.
Try pulling right up to a curb and give it a try. Your truck will just jump right over that bump. Also, try to find this little book: Mark A. Smith's "Guide to Safe, Common-Sense, Off-Road Driving". He explains this technique as well as other good stuff.
I use that switch every morning so I can start my truck without having to climb into it. It's a great feature!
Another added plus is that you put less stress on your crankshaft each time you start it without the clutch. I haven't heard of it happening on a VQ before but it was a pretty common problem with the older Mitsubishi Eclipses, referred to commonly as Crank Walk.
I haven't heard of it happening on a VQ before but it was a pretty common problem with the older Mitsubishi Eclipses, referred to commonly as Crank Walk.
I'm going to do this this weekend, finally after talking myself out of spending the $$ on the factory one.
My question is, if you can buy this momentary switch....why not just solder the two wires together permanently? Then you would never have to worry about the switch. is that what people have to do with remote starts?
i followed Peck's how-to on post #10. thank you! :salute:
the switch i used has 3 prongs: earth (ground), load, and supply. i have it wired up so the indicator light is on when the bypass is activated. now to see how well it works for starting on inclines on the trail, and boat launches etc...
I did an easy and no-cost clutch interlock by-pass on my first gen Xterra. Locate the clutch interlock switch - it should be on a bracket below your clutch pedal lever (so that when the clutch is fully depressed, it depresses the contact on the switch). Remove the switch from its mounting bracket. Take a small cap (valve stem cap worked fine for me) and fasten it on top of the switch so that the contact is depressed. You are now done and have by-passed the clutch interlock. Place the switch somewhere out of the way.
As a bonus, if you park in a high theft area (like at the airport), just take the cap off. You have now disabled the starter and even if they press the clutch it still will not start because you have removed the switch from the bracket.
I have looked around at the OEM switch... I don't think it will work. It's a latching momentary switch that wires into the CANBUS system. You would need the relays, wiring harnesses, and switch. I don't think the harnesses are even available from Nissan, so you would have to run and terminate your own wires to the fuse box and ECU.
Sort of pointless... Nissan used this setup because it's idiot proof. Well, almost. Nothing is stopping you from trying to start in 6th gear and blowing a fuse.
^^ unfortunately a valve stem cap is to small for the second gen switch. would need to find another threaded cap to fit. you could also just unplug the connector on the back of the switch to disable the vehicle.
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