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How-to: Replace Driver-side Door Window Motor - PBR

91K views 113 replies 71 participants last post by  Redmann 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
My Driver-side Door Window Motor went bad months ago. I finally got around to ordering a new one. The new part finally came in so time to install it.

Unfortunately, the dealership sent me the wrong part number and the Wiring Harness didn't match up. Be sure you are getting part #80731-EA005. They sent me the same part with EA500, Oops! Here is the correct part:


Tools:
Everything in this job requires a 10mm Socket.

Step 1: Remove the Drive-side Door Panel. I think there is already a 'How-to' on this so I will not redo it.

Step 2: Lower the Window to line up the Mounting Bolds to the holes in the Sheet Metal.


There are two screws holding it in. I was able to reconnect the Window Switch and Smacked the Motor to roll down the Window. In doing so it made the bolt on the right side line up with a hole in the Sheet Metal where I could access it with a Socket.



Remove the Door Glass from the Track. Once the Window is disconnected from the Track it is best if you can Tape it in the up position, but if not, lower it all the way down so it doesn't drop.

Step 3: Remove all of the bolts attaching the Window Track, (4 bolts), and the Window motor, (3 bolts). With the Glass up and out of the way you should be able to maneuver the Window Track and Motor out of the lower left opening.


I had the Glass all the way down, but I had to use one hand to lift it out of the way to make room for the Motor to get out. Otherwise, there just isn't enough room.


Step 4: Remove the three screws that are holding the Motor to the Regulator and swap it for the new Motor. You may have to move the Window Guide up or down on the Track to get the Motor Drive to line up inside the Regulator.



Step 5: Put it all back in reverse. Move the Window out of the way to put the Motor and Track back in, reattach Motor and Track to the Door, attach Window to the Track, put Door Panel back together. It is probably a good idea to Test the Motor with the Switch prior to putting everything back together.
 
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#6 ·
Thank you!

The motor was was $202.93 and shipping was $19.10 from Cherry Hill Nissan. Although they initially shipped me the wrong part, their customer service was pretty good. They got the new part out asap with a UPS shipping label to send back the wrong part.

Also, I ordered the keyless entry pad at the same time. Through the vendor link they go for $52.80, but if you go to their main website they go for $51.70. Weird.
 
#7 ·
ok, how the hell do i get the window to go down? i got the door panel off, and unscrewed the motor, but i cant get the window to go down so i can relase it from the track!!!!
 
#8 ·
i replaced my motor also.... when loosening bolts that hold window to metal frame, be carefull not to scratch your window film. i took a metal hanger and broke 2 6" pieces... i bent the ends opposite to each other and used them to hold the window up when i released window from metal frame.......
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
Big thanks to darrinniko for this great 'How-to'. I swapped out the Regulator and Motor without too many issues.

My experience:

I broke one of the tabs off of the "escutcheon", (little Plastic piece behind the Door Handle). They are only $5 from courtesyparts.com, so I'll be ordering one soon.

After unbolting the Window from the Regulator, I slid it all the way up, and Taped it off using some Gorilla Tape - that stuff worked great!


The Electrical Connection for the Window Motor gave me a little trouble at first. What I ended up doing was to get a small Flat Head Screwdriver and push down on the tab while pulling the connector towards me, (see picture below).


The "Sash", (track for the Window), on the side closest to the front of the vehicle broke free from the rivets that hold it to the Door, so that what was causing all of my troubles with the Window, (it wouldn't roll all the way down, it would get stuck, etc., etc.). It is $13 at courtesyparts.com, and I'll get one ordered soon.

I bought the Window Regulator and Motor from www.RockAuto.com for $56. It is made by Doorman, and the part number for the Driver's front is 741-348. This is a great price compared to what the dealers charge. And the dealers sell the Motor and the Regulator separately. I've ran the Motor up and down probably 30 times just to Test everything out, and it works perfectly.
 
#20 ·
Awesome How to! With this to guide me only took 15 mins. Advance Auto had a complete Motor and Track kit for 99. Was a quick swap, my first X and first repair. Thanks!
 
#21 · (Edited)
Thanks for the post, Darrinniko. My motor just went out today and I will be headed to Autozone and will be my first DIY on my xterra.

I just coughed up $1600 for my "timing chain", spark plugs and 90K mileage maintenance (figured to change my spark plugs at cost of the plugs then return it 15K miles later and be charged hudreds), so i'm not in the mood to pay $500 more to the dealer to get this fixed.

Ok. once the door panel is off, looks pretty easy as long as I follow directions properly.


Update: For those that have bought aftermarket. Do yours have "Auto-down" feature? I have it on my SE and seems that most aftermarket units exclude that.
 
#22 ·
...Update: For those that have bought aftermarket. Do yours have "Auto-down" feature? I have it on my SE and seems that most aftermarket units exclude that.
The motor doesn't control the auto down feature. The Body Control Module (BCM) takes care of that. If your truck has the feature, it will work with an aftermarket or a factory window motor.

I got my window motor and regulator at rockauto.com for under $60.
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
I believe there is a difference between the Auto-down Driver-side and Non Auto-down Motors. There is a Limit Switch of some sort on the Driver-side Motor, but not the Passenger-side. Here's an excerpt from GW-52 of the 2007 Service Manual;


I'm not sure of the significance of it, but the Doorman Regulator I bought to convert to Power Windows had the little button. I didn't do any of the above, but I'm using an Aftermarket Auto-down Module though.

Just thought I would point this out though. When it says not compatible with Auto-down, it probably means it lacks this Limit Switch.

Edit:
OP - I used this 'How-to' last week when converting to Power Windows. Great 'How-to'!

Thanks a Bunch!
 
#25 ·
Thanks for this how-to and for others posting links to sites with the motors for sale. My driver's side window (2005 Frontier) just crapped out on me and was stuck in the down position. I tested the switch and had 12V up and down at the switch and also had 12 volts to the motor so I know its the motor or regulator. Thanks to this thread (and a couple of others who recently had the same problem) I ordered my motor/regulator off of amazon for $60 and paid extra for expedited shipping. Thanks again for taking the mystery out of this fix with the pictures and write-up.
 
#29 ·
Same queston. How did you get the window down? My motor is dead and the window is in the up position.
The door panel is off and I still can't figure out how to get Glass window mounting bolt to show at cut-out hole in order to use socket to untight the bolt.
I'm in middle of this and stucked . Please advise ASAP. Appreciate all your help.
 
#32 ·
My window was stuck in the bottom position. With the door panel off, make a fist and lightly tap/pound near the motor with one hand while pushing the window down with the other hand(s). Better done with two people so the person pushing the window down can use both hands and apply equal pressure from both sides so you dont accidentally push too hard in one direction. Tap the motor area with the door panel off so you don't break your door panel. Start off tapping lightly on the motor and increase pressure as needed :) This worked for me in both directions up and down.
 
#30 ·
Have you tried just forcing it down? Open the door and press the glass on each side and see if you can make it go down. I wouldn't do this with a working motor but since it's dead and you're replacing the regulator I would just do that. Just try to keep the force straight down so you don't damage the tracks.
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