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How-to: Install Front Drive Shaft U-joints - PBR

161K views 181 replies 95 participants last post by  OpsAdm.in 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
So after listening to the clicking on the Wifes 05 for a week I tackled the Front U-joints this morning. Wasn't sure which one was bad, so I got 2 of them. NAPA, Autozone, Shucks, etc.... All had no listings for the Xterra, Stealership wanted $90 a U-joint, (YES I REALLY JUST WROTE $90, NO MISTAKE THERE). So I went to NAPA and tried the ones for an 05 Pathfinder assuming the drivetrains where similar. For 13.99 after 10% Military Discount its the best decision I could have made.

P.S: This Fixed (3) Problems at Once:

1. Clicking on Driveshaft
2. Vibration between 40-70 MPH
3. Difficult to Kick out of 4x4

Refer to 4WD issues

There are U-joint Instructions on 2 other threads, but no pics, so I tried to help out. Let me know what you think.

So here is how it went...

Step 1: Locate Front Drive Shaft and put some Marks on the Flange
Yoke and Companion Flange, (Chalk, Grease Pen, I used a Silver Sharpie.) This helps to line things up during install.

Front:


Rear:


Step 2: Remove 4 Ea nuts/bolts holding Front and Rear Flange Yokes to the Companion Flanges, (2 9/16 Wrenches, couldn't get the Sockets to fit. Not easy though, you might have to put your purse down. I did). Then lay the Driveshaft out so you can work on it.


Step 3: Mark up Front and Rear, so you don't make a mistake putting it back in.

Front:


Step 4: Remove the Snap Rings holding the Journal Bearings in.


Step 5: Using whatever method suits you, remove the old U-joints Journal Bearings. I use the U-Joint Press from Harbor Freight, (Yes I know it's Chinese and junk! But the military doesn't pay well and I am poor, so $19.99 is a STEAL!!!). It makes it really easy to push out the Journals.



Note: This is where I found my problem, Rear Joint had rusted Needle Bearings and had pretty much exploded.


It's like Pick-up Sticks.


New vs Old. Spicer 529 and Precision 369, (yes made in the USA).


Step 6: Remove the Journal Bearings from the new U-joint and Hand Press them in from the side, insert the new joint in between and press together until the Snap Rings can fit in the Groves, (Watch that the Needle Bearings don't fall out of place during this operation)!



Step 7:
After pressing in both U-joints, secure them with the supplied Snap Rings.


Step 8: Line up the previous marks keep the Driveshaft front to back and finger tighten bolts.


Step 9: Tighten down the bolts. The Service Manual said 59.8 NM, so I had to use a Crowsfoot to get to them.


Step 10: Drive it like you Stole it. Or in my case give it back to my Wife.
 
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#2 ·
Excellent write up. Thanks for the pics ... FYI, stay on top of the grease application with those zerk fittings; I've read (on here, most probably) that the serviceable joints like those are only better if you remember to grease them. I only say it 'cause I know I'd probably forget. :geek:
 
#5 ·
Step 6 Remove the Journal bearings from the new U-joint and hand press them in from the side, insert the new joint in between and press together until the snap rings can fit in the groves. (Watch that the needle bearings don't fall out of place during this operation!)
In set 6 I see you are pressing both caps at the same time. It's better to compress one at a time to insure that needle bearings don't fall.
 
#6 ·
I found that if you do both at the same time you can seat the journal inside each cap at the same time keeping the needle bearings in place. I tried doing one at a time but it almost cost me a new U-joint.
 
#11 ·
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=PUJ&PartNumber=369&Description=Universal+Joint+(U-Joint)+-+Front+Driveshaft+at+Front+Axle
Pretty sure I used these, NAPA wont list the Xterra but I am 99.9% sure the Frontier and Pathfinder share the same.

I didn't in the process where you greased them. I am not much of a mechanic, learn as I go, did you do it during or after the repair?

Are the stock u-joints sealed and don't have to be greased? And the ones you put in need to be greased periodically? How do you grease them?
Stock spicers are sealed, the ones I put on get greased every Oil change. They have a zerk fitting, just buy a grease gun, and keep em full. Alot of guys prefer the sealed ones. I am an airplane mechanic and I like know everything is greased, as you can see in the pictures the Spicers are sealed but still failed. This wouldnt happen if you were able to grease them.

remember witht eh crowsfoot you need to decrease your torque setting slight, how much...i dont know :)
Using a regular crowsfoot with no linear extension we don't change the torque anything bigger (I.E. 1in or more) use this.

 
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#9 ·
I didn't in the process where you greased them. I am not much of a mechanic, learn as I go, did you do it during or after the repair?

Are the stock u-joints sealed and don't have to be greased? And the ones you put in need to be greased periodically? How do you grease them?
 
#14 ·
Thanks for the writeup, I completed this same job yesterday, the info presented here made it much easier. Honestly, the hardest part of the job was getting the old driveshaft out from under the truck, those bolts were on pretty tight. I've got a cheapo shop press that made getting the old ujoints out pretty easy.

Thanks!
 
#16 ·
Nice writeup!

I'm going to check out NAPA for the 05 pathfinder joint as well. The dealership here quoted me $80 for the xterra one...

What about the other joint on the driveshaft? Is it the same one? The dealership said the other joint didn't have a part number and that it comes with a complete front driveshaft ($400!). I'm hoping that it's the same deal... I'm starting to get the clicking noise and sometimes a squeaking/chirping when in 4wd, so it's on it's way out. I'm not sure which joint on the front shaft is causing it so I'm just gonna replace both.

I did the u-joint for the rear drive shaft earlier this summer and it wasn't too hard...
 
#17 ·
Napa couldn't find one for an Xterra but they did find one for the pathfinder, part #1-0153. And they're only $20. Do they fit for sure? And again, they had nothing for the other front u-joint either... They should both be the same no?
 
#19 ·
Nice. But I think I'd rather have the sealed kind, not the greasable kind. I honestly couldn't be bothered to have to grease them :p

Do they have a sealed version of these maybe? And what's the difference between the 270 and 280?
 
#20 ·
I would recommend the greasable kind as they are a superior product. For a little bit of work and effort you get a better product that has longer shelf life.

270 is for the front and 280 is for the rear. I do not know if they sell a sealed version, so just call NAPA and ask.
 
#21 ·
By front and rear, you mean both ends of the front driveshaft right? So the 2 u-joints on the front driveshaft are different then?

I talked to napa and they weren't much help, couldn't find anything on xterras, THEY were asking ME for part numbers... :violent1:
 
#23 ·
No I know about the front shaft and rear shaft joints being different. I already did the u-joint on the rear driveshaft. I mean, are the 2 u-joints on the front driveshaft the same part or different? Hopefully the 2 front ones are the same. It would be retarded having a total of 3 different u-joints :p
 
#26 ·
Awesome write up!

You saved me a ton of money, went ahead and replaced all 3 u joints, borrowed u-joint press kit at advanced auto tool loan program, took a couple hours, after the 1st one, it was no big deal. I did have to get a monkey socket head and grind a bit off to grab some of the nuts that were spinning. Thanks for the awesome write up and saving me a bunch of cash!
 
#27 ·
You saved me a ton of money, went ahead and replaced all 3 u joints, borrowed u-joint press kit at advanced auto tool loan program, took a couple hours, after the 1st one, it was no big deal. I did have to get a monkey socket head and grind a bit off to grab some of the nuts that were spinning. Thanks for the awesome write up and saving me a bunch of cash!
Thanks, WTF is a monkey socket head, as you saw I had to use crowsfeet, but most guys won't have those. I am interested in something easier for everyone else.
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#28 ·
So not to thread jacked and I know I'm asking for the rear but if you do the rear u joint I think I can do it on the truck but was wondering if I pull the slip yoke out do I have to replace all the seals afterwards?
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#29 ·
If I recall when I did mine the service manual said to replace it. I didn't pull the driveshaft though, I did it under the truck. After doing the fronts it only took me 10 minutes with press.
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#30 ·
K that's what ima do.thanks again
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