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How-to: Install Rear Diff Breather Extension - PBR

440K views 840 replies 274 participants last post by  Terra Buena 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Pretty simple but thought I'd put it up anyway.

1. Remove right rear tail light assembly (2 bolts, then pry gently as there are two plastic clips)
2. Run rubber/vinyl tubing behind bumper along frame rail and over exhaust heat shield. Ziptie as necessary. Ensure you leave enough slack to accomodate the suspension travel.
Webshots - Full Moon Over Gunsight Peak, Washington
3. Insert 1" aquarium airstone into end of tube http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.a...t&Nav=215&N=24 4937&sku=257931&familyID=6367& (to keep dust out) available from any pet store.

4. Secure to tail light assembly using existing clips.
5. Remove breather from axel housing.
6. Pry cap from breather or purchase new nipple-type fitting. I didnt want to drive back to AutoZone so I just made the existing fitting work.
7. Fit tubing over breather, secure with small hose clamp.

:cheers:
Thats it, go drive through a big puddle somewhere.....of course theres always the issue of the front diff, tranny and t-case breathers but I didn't get a chance to look at all that yet.
 
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#551 · (Edited)
Just completed this mod on my '14 Pro-4x using 38323-c601a and a little thread sealant. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

One thing I noticed though is that I couldn't screw the breather all the way down like some of you. I doubt it's an issue as the original breather was only screwed down about half way also. I guess only time will tell.
 
#557 ·
So I also have been trying to find the proper thread for my C200 as well, and haven't had luck but I can tell you what its not.

I took it out and measured it OD of thread at 0.375 which I found odd it being Japanese design, but so be it. Rough counting shows "approximately" 24 Threads per inch. Tried a 3/8 UNF bolt - threaded about a turn then bound up? Wrong pitch.

I tried a 1/8 M.I.P thread, and its too big around. From further searching on the internet seems all 1/8 pipe thread are OD of .405.

So any ideas. .375 with approximately 24 TPI?
 
#559 ·
Other people have probably covered this, but this thread is bloody long.

In the unlikely even that anyone reads this post, THE PROPER PART TO BUY is Nissan 38323-C6010. It can be found online, or my local Nissan dealer sold it to me for $4.50. The nipple fitting stem is 3/16" wide (or whatever the metric equivalent is), so 3/16" inner diameter fuel line would be best. So, readers of the future, buy the following:

- Nissan part number 38323-C6010
- 3/16" inner diameter fuel line x 8 ft long
- small hose clamp
- Whatever filter thing you want to put on the top end of the fuel line.
 
#565 ·
I've been looking into doing this breather extension since shortly after getting our '13 Pro-4X in October. Especially after getting deeper into a puddle than I had intended over New Years.
So, after reviewing 57 pages, and talking with some people that have done this for the M226 axle housing, it was suggested I get a <1/8npt x 3/8" barbed hose fitting>.

eBay shows a few options, and I'm open to input:
1. I believe the nylon fittings wouldn't stand up to the shear force exeerted against it when it's traveling through a lot of water, let alone mud.
2. Since I've heard of a clamped hose coming off of the normal fitting (he wasn't sure when/how it happened, so I suspect the same forces as above), I'm wonderring...
3. Has anyone tried the 90*/right angle hose fittings?

My thinking is that if the clamped hose can be secured to the axle housing with a couple of zip ties, followed by adding a loop for condensation collection and shock travel before the first place it gets secured to the body, it can then be threaded up towards the taillight.

I have both the straight and 90* fittings on their way from eBay, but just curious if it's been done before, and what effect it's had.
 
#567 · (Edited)
http://www.courtesyparts.com/breather-coupler-tube-p-587494.html

I ordered mine for my 2014 Pro from Courtesy Parts and I used fuel hose because I wanted it to be stronger then vacuum hose. I ran mine to the engine compartment to keep condensation down. Also I double clamped with stainless steel clamps (think what you would use on a boat) and use plenty of thread sealant. Before removing the factory vent valve clean the surface to keep it out of the diff.
 
#572 ·
ugh. i need someone to assure me that I didn't just mess up my diff.

after completing the breather mod my back end seems unusually loud when i press the accelerator while stationary in neutral. the truck seems to be driving fine, driven maybe 100 miles since, but i am a little worried. i did have to tap a new thread in to the diff in order to get the new valve in, but i was careful.

i haven't slept regularly(or much at all) since our baby was born so i know i'm not thinking too clearly so, please, someone, talk some sense in to me.
 
#573 ·
If you are stationary and in neutral, your rear (and front) differentials have no power going to them and they are not turning. The increased noise you are hearing is not from them. Maybe your transmission is complaining because you are revving it in Neutral.
 
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#576 · (Edited)
Just dropped off mine to have a seat bottom replaced. I mentioned for them to check my factory breather. I also mentioned "The breather mod" to the service manager. She knew what i was talking about! Wow. We have done a few right here. We run the line to the frame. Honestly we are only seeing problems 4-5 years down the road, and on older models. Ones that see off road abuse daily with heavy water submerrsion.

EDIT: Just got it back. Mine was checked and is fine. @ 32,000 miles.
 
#577 · (Edited)
FYI (in case you don't want to read all 576 posts before this one):

For the M226 axle you want PN 38323-C601A, "Nissan Breather Coupler Tube," Thread Pitch M10 x 1.00, Barb 3/16", $2.60 MSRP; also 7-8' of 3/16" fuel line, a hose clamp or two, and some zipties.




For the hose end tucked up behind the passenger side tail light I found a 3/16" chain saw fuel filter at the local NAPA for $3.45, although an aquarium filter stone works just as well for less than a buck. (I would have spent the price difference on gasoline driving from the auto parts store to the pet store.)





This is a 15 minute job, most of which is spent locating the proper wrenches and a nut driver for the hose clamps.
 
#578 ·
FYI (in case you don't want to read all 576 posts before this one):

For the M226 axle you want PN 38323-C601A, "Nissan Breather Coupler Tube," Thread Pitch M10 x 1.00, Barb 3/16", $2.60 MSRP; also 7-8' of 3/16" fuel line, a hose clamp or two, and some zipties.



For the hose end tucked up behind the passenger side tail light I found a 3/16" chain saw fuel filter at the local NAPA for $3.45, although an aquarium filter stone works just as well for less than a buck. (I would have spent the price difference on gasoline driving from the auto parts store to the pet store.)





This is a 15 minute job, most of which is spent locating the proper wrenches and a nut driver for the hose clamps.
Anybody know of any local places to get the coupler tube? Do the dealerships normally carry them? Courtesyparts.com wants over $10 for shipping.
 
#579 ·
How-to: Install Rear Diff Breather Extension

Get it at the dealership. It will probably be about $5. They will likely have to order it and have you pick it up. Save yourself some time and call so you don't have to make multiple trips.


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#580 ·
Go to the parts counter of your local Nissan dealer and order it if they don't have one in stock. Ordering will only take a day or two and there will be no shipping charge. Since you have the part number you should be able to telephone to determine whether your dealer has the part and order it if necessary without ever leaving your kitchen table.

There is no reason to purchase a $2.60 dealer part on the Internet.
 
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