My skids from Schrockworks should be arriving on friday. Any recomendations on paint?

I used Rustoleum Spray Automobile Primer and then Rustoleum Gloss Spray Paint. Prepped with a quick scuff sand with 200-grit paper, followed by a wipe down with a rag and some acetone.

I also picked up a small can of Rustoleum (brush on) in the same color to use for touch ups later. Could probably use touch ups now, but I'm too lazy to crawl under there.

I think some others have used POR-15, but I was not sure I could exercise as much care in application as the instructions suggest.

I used rustoleum hammered black on mine. No primer needed and if you want to see how it looks, check out my post which has pics now. Its what Jim recommended to me to use if I didn't get them powder coated. 4.50 a can I think and I did the full set with 4.2 cans.

I ordered POR15 and after looking at the instructions I let that gallon sit and put the Rustoleum on. Very very satisfied with that, plus it touches up easy POR 15 is best used on parts already rusted, or shall I say most economically used on parts already rusted. It's killer stuff, but not needed for skids, run to Wal Mart and get the rustoleum is my vote! It touches up Fast! MC

I por-15'ed mine. It took me about 2 days to complete. Por-15 sells a great product called "Metal Ready". You clean the bare metal, dry it (I used a heat gun), apply metal ready to it, let it sit for 10-15 minutes (make sure the metal ready does not dry), hose it off with clean garden hose water, let it dry, apply Por-15. It worked great and it's as touch as nails. I have dentd my skids already but none of the por-15 has been scraped off. It's not cheap, but works great.

f all you plan on doing is the skids, do not buy a gallon container. Once it's opened and exposed to air you have to use it. I bought a "6 pack" and it took three of the 6 (4oz) containers to do both sides of all 4 skids with 2 coats. I just brushed it on with a cheap 1.5" brush.

Also, DO NOT shake the por-15, stir it.

:clown: --Yo Muzik-- you must have got info from James Bond--

--Thats how he likes his Martini's-"stirred not shaken"

-- :geek: --JIMBO

Skids showed up today...a day early. FedEx managed to drop them off at the wrong building in my complex, so I had to carry those things one at a time back to my place...i didn't realize how heavy they would be. At any rate I think I am going to go the Rustolem route. I don't have a garage handy to prep and prime for the POR-15. I am going to have to do what I can from the back porch.

I used a self-etching primer. That work really well. The finish ended up flat black even with gloss paint. Even Sierra granite has a hard time scraping it off.

Z.

I used POR 15. Works well. Very durable. Prep wasn't that hard.

I used POR 15. Works well. Very durable. Prep wasn't that hard.

How did you prep it? Prep wasn't hard, but it took quite a bit of time.

To be honest, the best prep you could do with bare steel and por15 is to let the steel sit out in the rain for a week or so. Por 15 loves rust.

Wash skids thoroughly with dish soap and water

Let dry

Use rattle can primer

Let dry

Use rattle can paint

Bolt them back up. Retouch with rattle can if needed.

When I paint mine, I'm certainly not going to spend much time or money...

They ARE rock sliders, afterall.
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I cleaned them off with acetone and painted when dry. Good enough for government work. They will do the job. They will harden for 48 hours then be installed.

When I paint mine, I'm certainly not going to spend much time or money...

They ARE rock sliders, afterall.

True dat!

Last year I painted my shrockworks sliders with por-15 and followed the complicated prep and top coated them with the recommended top coat paint (because por-15 will fade if exposed to the sun).

After a regular Minnesota winter I found the por-15 flaking off and where the "snow boggers" would collect. Some may argue that I didn't prep the sliders right, but I did use the scotch brite pad and the cleaner and the metal etching stuff just as it said in the instructions. After cleaning the rust and scraping the paint off in those areas it looks like the por-15 may not have adhered to the metal because those sliders were too smooth, I have a paint stripper attachment for my drill now, no problem roughing up those areas for the new paint

I also attended Moab 2006 in May and scraped the rock sliders up quite a bit. I saw Muzikman say that por-15 is "tough as nails". I don't care how tough por-15 is, the rocks will take that stuff off every time.

So I am left with the same decision. What should I put on the rocksliders? Is the por-15 is worth all the multi-step prep time? Would a rattle can or metal primer work just as good and be easier/cheaper in the long run?

Does anyone know how you touch up por-15? I plan on buying one of the kits that has the cleaner and etcher, but that obviously won't get to the bare metal where the rocks and rust didn't expose the metal. Will that stuff work on top of existing por-15 or do I need to try and strip all the paint before re-doing it?

I got my sliders powdercoated. I've since worn all the coating off the bottom of the sliders. I figured no matter what I painted them with, I'd scrape it off on the trail. That's why I use the rattle can stuff for now on. It just doesn't matter because it's coming off soon anyhow.

stainless=no painting :cheers:

stainless = $$$$$$$$

Yeah, NOTHING is going to not scratch, but por-15 is tougher than anything else you are going to put on it.

Por-15 only takes a lot of prep work on bare steel. You want to touch it up? Wash the area, use a scrub brush to get the mud, dirt, grease and grim off the area and then repaint it with por-15. The stuff loves rust, so the more sufeace rust you have, the better.

stainless = $$$$$$$$

yeah tell me about it. my boss wants to charge me for the bumper i just made. i think it like $3.14 lb

Yeah, NOTHING is going to not scratch, but por-15 is tougher than anything else you are going to put on it.

Por-15 only takes a lot of prep work on bare steel. You want to touch it up? Wash the area, use a scrub brush to get the mud, dirt, grease and grim off the area and then repaint it with por-15. The stuff loves rust, so the more sufeace rust you have, the better.

I got all the propoganda about POR-15 from the store too. It is supposed to be tough as nails, love rust and I want to believe that. When it flaked off the sliders after one winter, I started to wonder if it was worth the hassle. I had to topcoat my sliders (and I chose an official POR topcoat) because POR-15 is UV senstative, and the sliders will see some sun. That added yet another step and still didn't protect like the documentation read. Again I followed the directions to the letter, it may have just been the sliders were too smooth where the round tube meets the square on the Shrockworks sliders, but I did rough them up with a scotch brite pad, per the instructions.

I have the sliders sanded and preped for another application. Reading this post makes me want to try something else, but I will probably break down and buy the POR 15 again because I want to believe, but then I have to top coat it again.

Were you reading the directions for Por-15 when you used the scotch brite pad? I don't remember anything about using a scotch brite pad with por-15 (I have with DIY bedliners though). I assume you got the sliders in bare metal? If so, what products did you use to clean and prep that bare metal?

Por-15 loves rust, but doesn't like bare clean metal. There are special products and steps you have to take to coat bare metal with por-15. If you do not use them it will not stick. By design Por-15 can not flake off if properly prepped.

Were you reading the directions for Por-15 when you used the scotch brite pad? I don't remember anything about using a scotch brite pad with por-15 (I have with DIY bedliners though). I assume you got the sliders in bare metal? If so, what products did you use to clean and prep that bare metal?

Por-15 loves rust, but doesn't like bare clean metal. There are special products and steps you have to take to coat bare metal with por-15. If you do not use them it will not stick. By design Por-15 can not flake off if properly prepped.

I read the scotch brite pad as a tip for applying the POR-15, maybe it wasn't in the offical directions but I read a step by step review of the stuff and I didn't think it could hurt. I believe the article was a link off the site I bought the paint from. It is supposed to rough up the metal to create groves for POR-15 to lock into.

I got the sliders bare metal, and purchased two POR-15 super starter packs. Each kit included gloves, a brush, marine clean, metal ready and POR-15. I used the scotch brite pad to rough up the surface. I preped the sliders according to the directions with marine clean, and then I used the metal ready to etch the metal. After that I brushed on 2 coats of POR-15 and 2 coats of the POR topcoat.

The part which flaked off was between the square bar and the round bar where the two join and only on the joints in the back, not the front. Like I wrote in an earlier post where the car boogers accumulate in the winter. Maybe I didn't rough that area up enough, but the stuff DID flake off and I am certain I applied it per the directions. I am not saying POR-15 is crap, I am just asserting that it didn't hold up and it was many steps. Your posts are like advertisements for POR-15 and I think it is great that you totally buy into their stuff. I am just not convinced that is the end all for rust preventing metal paint.

Now after the winter and a trip to GONE Moab the sliders looked pretty rough, I have scraped and sanded them, I noticed areas where the POR just didn't stick, it flaked off with my scraper, but 80% of the sliders have that crap on it and it isn't coming off. I haven't read how to reapply the POR-15 I would guess re-marine clean and re-metal ready, but that is acid and I don't know if that should be applied to surfaces with POR-15 on them. I will have to find the instructions and the article I printed off and see if they talk about re-application.

I have to back Muzikman on this one. POR 15 is tough as it gets! I have used that stuff and always will. From what I see, you did everything right. But also do this, wash metal after all that prep with soap and water, dry and let dry and POR 15 suggests you splash the metal with a torch or a blast of dry heated air to suck the moisture out of the metal before the POR 15 goes on.

POR 15 works in that it has a chemical that sucks the moisture out of the metal so it can't rust. (This is why they say you have to use small amounts at a time and it's worthless if left exposed to air any length of time.) The less moisture you have when you paint over it the more effective it can be and the more it will sort of "Sink" into the metal. I use a torch with Mapp Gas in it. I blast like a square foot and then paint it and keep going.

If you really want it to sing in, zap it with a Infrared heater to dry it and it's hard as nails! A guess a Blast of souther sun dry would work as well.

MC

Does anyone besides me have Grey sliders on a black truck? I haven't recieved mine yet and just want to know what it looks like.
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