Roaming Timber
10-27-2009, 11:33 PM
This is my first how to, I know it's a little rough, but hopefully it's the first of many.
I completed my design/build of this rack about a week and a half ago, but I wanted to really test it out before submitting it for use by the rest of you. After a day spent cruising forest roads in Washington's Cascade mountains shaking the crap out of trying to see if it would drop the bike, or come loose, I am confident this will hold your bike through pretty much anything. Attach a couple of bungee cords for extra stability and it will keep your bike safe through any zombie infection.
I wanted something that would use the tracks in the back end the truck, hold my bike up right while driving up any road to any trailhead or camp, but I did not want to pay the $300 for Nissan's Yakima made rack. I figured I could do better for less. After some brainstorming this is what I came up with.
Note: All measurements have been made with my bare eyes and your average tape measure. I recommend you double check all of my measurements before making any cuts or drill any holes.
Parts List:
2" x 2" x 48" x 1/8" Aluminum angle - $20, Lowe's
1 Bike Fork Mount - $25 or less at your local bike shop/REI
2 Bolts, 4 Washers, 2 Nuts (Size will vary depending on the model of Fork Mount You Use) - cheap at your local harware store
One set of stock Nissan Cargo Tie down loops for use with the tracks. - $35 to $50 depending on your source.
Tool List:
Tape Measure
Permanent Marker
Hacksaw
Dremel or other grinding/cutting wheel
Drill and bits
Parts:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1627.jpg
Complete:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1636.jpg
Step one: Measure out 40" from one end of your aluminum angle and draw a line across it, take your hacksaw and cut on this line.
Tracks are 35" inches apart inside to inside, 36 1/2" apart outside to outside and 3/4" wide inside
Step 2: On the inside of your aluminum angle, meausre out 20" from one end of your aluminum angle to find the center, mark it to use as a reference for your other measurements. 35" divided by 2= 17.5" measure 17.5" from your center line towards each end and mark, this is the inside of the slots you will cut for your tracks, make another line 3/4" outside of these lines and this completes your cut marks for your slots.
Material to be cut out, marked out:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1630.jpg
Step three:
Cut your out your slots in your aluminum angle, I recommend making the deep cuts with a hacksaw and the short cuts with the dremel, making all the cuts with a dremel is a little much for the dremel and it could burn up, mine was close. Use your dremel to smooth out and round of all of the sharp edges and corners.
Slots after cuts have been made:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1661.jpg
Step four:
Mount your aluminum angle into the truck, stick your bike in the back of your truck with your fork mount attached and figure out where your best mounting spot is based on how long your bike is and how wide your handle bars are. Mark your bolt locations, drill your holes and mount your fork mount on to the piece of aluminum angle. You are now done. You also need to flip the plate nuts on the bottom of the tie down loops to make them long enough to fit over the aluminum angle.
Mounted for bike fitting and spacing:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1632.jpg
Tie Down loops on ends of aluminum angle:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1631.jpg
Complete without bike:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1662.jpg
The tied down loop on the left is how its supposed to be, the one on the right is with the plate nut flipped to allow clearance:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1641.jpg
I think the instructions are little vague, but it is such a simple build, it's hard to write it up.
I completed my design/build of this rack about a week and a half ago, but I wanted to really test it out before submitting it for use by the rest of you. After a day spent cruising forest roads in Washington's Cascade mountains shaking the crap out of trying to see if it would drop the bike, or come loose, I am confident this will hold your bike through pretty much anything. Attach a couple of bungee cords for extra stability and it will keep your bike safe through any zombie infection.
I wanted something that would use the tracks in the back end the truck, hold my bike up right while driving up any road to any trailhead or camp, but I did not want to pay the $300 for Nissan's Yakima made rack. I figured I could do better for less. After some brainstorming this is what I came up with.
Note: All measurements have been made with my bare eyes and your average tape measure. I recommend you double check all of my measurements before making any cuts or drill any holes.
Parts List:
2" x 2" x 48" x 1/8" Aluminum angle - $20, Lowe's
1 Bike Fork Mount - $25 or less at your local bike shop/REI
2 Bolts, 4 Washers, 2 Nuts (Size will vary depending on the model of Fork Mount You Use) - cheap at your local harware store
One set of stock Nissan Cargo Tie down loops for use with the tracks. - $35 to $50 depending on your source.
Tool List:
Tape Measure
Permanent Marker
Hacksaw
Dremel or other grinding/cutting wheel
Drill and bits
Parts:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1627.jpg
Complete:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1636.jpg
Step one: Measure out 40" from one end of your aluminum angle and draw a line across it, take your hacksaw and cut on this line.
Tracks are 35" inches apart inside to inside, 36 1/2" apart outside to outside and 3/4" wide inside
Step 2: On the inside of your aluminum angle, meausre out 20" from one end of your aluminum angle to find the center, mark it to use as a reference for your other measurements. 35" divided by 2= 17.5" measure 17.5" from your center line towards each end and mark, this is the inside of the slots you will cut for your tracks, make another line 3/4" outside of these lines and this completes your cut marks for your slots.
Material to be cut out, marked out:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1630.jpg
Step three:
Cut your out your slots in your aluminum angle, I recommend making the deep cuts with a hacksaw and the short cuts with the dremel, making all the cuts with a dremel is a little much for the dremel and it could burn up, mine was close. Use your dremel to smooth out and round of all of the sharp edges and corners.
Slots after cuts have been made:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1661.jpg
Step four:
Mount your aluminum angle into the truck, stick your bike in the back of your truck with your fork mount attached and figure out where your best mounting spot is based on how long your bike is and how wide your handle bars are. Mark your bolt locations, drill your holes and mount your fork mount on to the piece of aluminum angle. You are now done. You also need to flip the plate nuts on the bottom of the tie down loops to make them long enough to fit over the aluminum angle.
Mounted for bike fitting and spacing:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1632.jpg
Tie Down loops on ends of aluminum angle:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1631.jpg
Complete without bike:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1662.jpg
The tied down loop on the left is how its supposed to be, the one on the right is with the plate nut flipped to allow clearance:
http://i806.photobucket.com/albums/yy350/roamingtimber/IMG_1641.jpg
I think the instructions are little vague, but it is such a simple build, it's hard to write it up.