I started collecting parts a couple months ago to do a rear end coil spring conversion on the X. Originally I planned to do a radius arm style set-up with ZJ coils. That plan has slowly morphed into a 3-link with JK coils :)

It looks like all of my fab parts will be coming from Ballistic Fab. I've got some coil brackets and shock tabs already (will be changing the upper shock mounts).

UPDATE 9/18/09:

One little step at a time with this one. Had the frame link brackets welded on today. This first picture is kinda blurry;

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2111.jpg

The bracket is 3.5" wide. The frame rail is 2.5" wide. You can see that the bracket is mounted about an 1" outboard of the inner face of the frame rail. That's due in part because the center of the leaf spring is mounted outboard of the center of the frame rail, about 1 - 1 & 1/8" inches according to my measurements, so you have to move it out if you wanted your lower links to assume the same spot on your axle as the leaf springs. I moved my brackets an extra 1/2" out just to try and make a little more room for the coil springs on the inner side of the frame rail.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2112.jpg

If I moved them forward much farther I probably would have a hell of a time dropping the bolt on the body mount it sits next to. Also, it's real close to one of the holes for a strap on the gas tank skid. My fab guy used some 3/8" plate scrap he had to make some gussets. I don't think it's going anywhere...

UPDATE 9/27/09:

Spent some time with the grinder today making room for the upper coil buckets.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2117.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2118.jpg

UPDATE 11/13/09:

Swung by the exhaust shop today and had them cut off the old rear exhaust hanger rod and weld a new one to the other side of the bushing. I think the OEM hanger would have been in the way of the shock. Here's the "after" pic.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2129.jpg

UPDATE 12/5/09:

Here's the axle truss for my upper link. 1.5" DOM tube. My fab guy came up the idea of running tabs down and drilling holes through the gussets to brace it to the cast center-section. A little outside the box, but I think it should work. Sorry for the crappy pic. Flash bounces right off the fresh coat of gloss black paint.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2161.jpg

UPDATE 1/30/10:

New Total Chaos lower shock mount welded the rear of the passenger side. The factory upper shock mount studs are gone, replaced with shock tabs from Ballistic welded to the factory tube crossmember. These are 10" stroke Bilstein 7100 "Short Body" shocks. Probably the best option at my ride height. I couldn't fiind any other 10" shocks that had a better compressed measurement. The resi hose on the passenger side clears the exhaust hanger bracket by about 3/4" of an inch and should have no problem as the axle stuffs and droops. It's good that I cut the hanger and had it relocated to the other side of the bracket. Don't think it would have fit otherwise. Right now I've got about 4.5" of upstroke and 5.5" of down.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2292.jpg

UPDATE 2/26/10:

Here's where it get interesting. Here's my "sub-frame" design that my fab guy welded up for me this morning.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2294.jpg

I didn't see any way to create a traditional crossmember between the frame rails with the gas tank in the way, unless you wanted it to hang really low and be bolt-on, which looked to be pretty tricky.

This is braced to the OEM crossmembers that are in front of the gas tank and above the axle. The tabs are spaced at 1.75" for a 3/4" ball heim with hi-misalign spacers that bring the bolt size down to 5/8"

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2298.jpg

It's hard to tell from these pictures, but there is more room between the tabs and the driveshaft than there is between the driveshaft and the gas tank. And yes the muffler bolts back up and clears the new sub-frame.

UPDATE 4/2/10:

Picture of the upper link mocked up. This thing might actually work :)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2325.jpg

UPDATE 4/16/10:

Upper coil buckets and track bar brackets are in.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/DSC00517.jpg

We've just started mocking up the track bar. The passenger side tube adapter is just barely tacked in so we could get a heim in there and run a bolt through the bracket. I'm probably going to shorten up the passenger side a hair and have th driver side bent some more so that it follows the axle closer. Obviously we won't add the adapter/heim to the driver side until it's sitting on springs and the ride height is established.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/DSC00513.jpg

Now off to primer and paint...

UPDATE: 5/8/10

Decided that without the leaf springs in place behind the axle to offer some protection, that exhaust tip was just going to get smashed. Had the exhaust shop re-route it off the to side.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2391.jpg

I'll cut the plastic corner piece so that the new tip isn't covered up.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2392.jpg

UPDATE: 5/25/10

Well it's done and I'm out here in Moab for GONE trying to work the bugs out of this thing. Here's a quick pic that I took out on the trail;

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/DSC00614.jpg

It's flexing well but it's been making some god awful noises the first two days due to the frame side trac-bar bracket bolt being a little too long and actually making contact with the passenger side coil. On Sunday night I tore it down and tried to reverse the bolt (because the head end was shorter than the tip end with the giant nylock nut, and that was causing the problems) but there wasn't enough room between the bracket and the spring guide tubing to reverse it. I also ended up cutting the bump stops down a bit.

Tore it down again tonight and actually installed a slighty shorter bolt with a lower-profile metal lock nut to get a little more clearance. It looks fine now, but I'll have a better fix when I get home that I can explain in more detail later.

The good news is that I've had it stuffed on both sides and everything seems to be free and clear of any interference. I was a little concerned that under full driver side compression the trac-bar might stuff the driveshaft close enough to the gas tank to make contact, but I can't find any evidence of that.

UPDATE 5/31/10:

Well I'm back in Oregon now. My temp fix in Moab seems to have solved 90% of my noise, and after a couple days of breaking the springs in this thing really started to flex well. Here's what was causing my problem;

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/DSC00678.jpg

What you see between the bracket and the nut is a bolt-hole reducer from Ballistic. When I was planning this thing out on paper I looked at the angle of how I would need to mount my axle trac-bar mount and decided that I would need hi-misalignment spacers on my trac-bar ends for additional flex. I was running 3/4 heims and the hi-misalignment spacers brought the bolt size down to 5/8. The trac-bar brackets came with 3/4 holes, hence the reducers, which add 3/16" to your total mounting width on each side of the bracket.

I'm not sure what I was thinking with the hi-misalignment spacers. Obviously regular heim spacers would have done the trick. I ordered some a couple days ago and will be ditching the reducers and switching out the 5/8 bolts for 3/4, which should allow me to run a slightly shorter bolt. Hopefully that eliminates the ocassional squeak that I still get when the suspension is flexing.

When I bolted everything up for the first time (with a much larger nylock nut versus the metal lock nut you see now) it came REALLY close to the spring. I hoped it would be alright but I underestimated the amount the spring would move during compression, and in general it shifts around on the spring guide a little bit.

Also... I don't think I said this in my last post, but I started out with OEM rear 4DR Jeep JK springs. They were too soft. I switched them out (about 12 hours before I hit the road for GONE) for Teraflex 2.5" lift rear springs with a stiffer spring rate, and they seem to be the perfect combo for trail and street. With those springs and the Rubicon Express JK axle coil mounts and Ballistic frame rail mounted upper coil buckets, I seem to be sitting at about 5" over stock height (ballpark guess).

There are a few downfalls with this setup over my leafsprings. The combination of all parts is heavier than the leaf packs/shackles. Maybe I could come close to nullifying that if I went with aluminum links? I did lose some ground clearance with the lower arm frame mounts. I scraped in a couple spots I wouldn't have last year, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be and didn't seem to slow me down much.

Here are the positives: (A) It's beefy as $h:t (B) It's flexing better than my leafsprings (C) I can literally crawl under my rig with a large crescent wrench and adjust my pinion angle in about 2 minutes...

UPDATE 6/12/10:

So here's what my original frame side trac-bar bolt did to my spring the first two days in Moab;

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2416.jpg

Like I said in an earlier post, 90% of the bolt to spring contact was eliminated after I tore things apart at the condo and added a shorter bolt with a metal lock nut instead of the extra wide nylock nut. Today I dropped the trac-bar again and ditched the hi-misalign spacers and hole reducers for standard spacers and 3/4 bolts. I was also able to reverse the frame side bolt (just barely) without cutting the spring guide down, because the bolt head is thinner than the metal lock nut. This gained me another 1/4" clearance from my last fix, and probably 5/8" extra clearance over my original, problem-causing setup. Even with the spring shifting around on the guide I should be good to go now.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2415.jpg

If there was something I actually got right the first time, I want to say it was my control arm lengths, placement and geometry. Here's my pinion angle at FULL DROOP. Not too bad :)

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2417.jpg

UPDATE 9/18/10:

Still working some small issues out of this thing. Since there was no insulation between the coil spring and the upper coil bucket, once paint and powdercoat started to wear down a bit the springs started to squeak and make noise. I had some JK rear coil spring spacers that I ordered from Poly Performance...

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/images/D/PPM-8016-075-200.jpg

... so I used a hacksaw to cut off the top 5/8" or so of the donut (didn't really want to add an extra lift). The center hole on these things is 1.5", so they fit perfectly over the 1.5" tubing I used as a spring guide. The bottom of the spacer is shaped like a factory isolater and helps to keep the spring from moving around which was another issue I was dealing with.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2510.jpg

I drilled holes through some flat tubing caps I ordered from Ballistic and tack welded a nut on one side, then welded the tubing cap to the bottom of my spring guide tubing so that I could thread in the cone-style poly bumpstops. Should give me about another 1" of uptravel, and the larger coil spring insert style bumpstops I was using wouldn't have really fit anymore due to the shape of the coil spring spacers.

UPDATE 2/20/11:

Got some work done today. Finally installed the new lower control arms that utilize a fixed bushing at the axle end. One of the biggest problems I was having with this thing was that the axle side jam nuts kept coming loose no matter what I did. When this happened the miniscule amount of slop in the threads would actually allow movement between the threaded stud of the bushing and the thread in the tube adapter, making a clunk sound if you braked or accelerated enough. Talk about annoying. Everything seems to work great and the joints on the frame end aren't binding anywhere, even with the fixed bushing.

Decided to pull the driver side spring, droop out the passenger side and jack the driver side up to full bump in an effort to cycle the suspension in the driveway.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2726.jpg

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2725.jpg

Here's full stuff on driver side.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2723.jpg

One thing I've always wondered is if I could stuff 35's. Tape measure says yes... barely. Had to adjust the arms a couple times to get there.

I've still got 1.5-2" inches of shock uptravel that isn't being used. I could run a longer shock/body and get a couple more inches of droop without binding my joints and without losing any of my current uptravel. I think the question then becomes angle on the DS u-joint...

Congrats twice bud.
Posted via Mobile Device

... yeah; and I'll be curious to see this when it finally starts getting put together.

Congrats on the engagement! Get to work on the CO setup ;)

Congrats twice bud.
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks, man.

Oh, and before Muzik asks... the only joint I've decided on so far is the Ballistic 3" Ultra Duty forged joint at the frame end. Those two link points will be have to take all the stress, so I want them to be as beefy as possible (3/4" bolts!). Still trying to figure out the axle end stuff. May just go with the regular 2.63" re-buildable Ballistic Joints.

And I want my track bar to be tucked up close enough to the axle that I can still carry my 33" spare in the stock location. Yeah, I know... tight squeeze.

Good choices. :)

Oh, and before Muzik asks... the only joint I've decided on so far is the Ballistic 3" Ultra Duty forged joint at the frame end. Those two link points will be have to take all the stress, so I want them to be as beefy as possible (3/4" bolts!). Still trying to figure out the axle end stuff. May just go with the regular 2.63" re-buildable Ballistic Joints.

And I want my track bar to be tucked up close enough to the axle that I can still carry my 33" spare in the stock location. Yeah, I know... tight squeeze.

So tight that PRG couldn't fit it under the X, so their rear coil/airbag system looses the undercarriage tire storage. Keeping it just wouldn't work for them.

Congratulations twice, and your ability to properly prioritize your finances will serve you well in life and love.

Patrick

Gratz, well i guess i'll be the test dummy. I'm 3 linking it & will see if it wokes or not.

Nice! Can't wait to see this project in action...

This oughtta be cool.

Check out Summit Machine's "Jimmy Joints"..

Congrats on the engagement!
Posted via Mobile Device

hmmmm... :tongue4:

Congrats on your engagement Oregon!!
Very exiting to see you and Boon cutting new ground with rear supension, we'll be tracking your progress and wish ya'll best of luck!!

i ran across some good info in a magazine. you should use parts that are mass produced so that if there is any sort of failure you can just reorder what is damaged instead of a custom fab. i feel that the handful of people that are thinking about this swap should put all their head together and come up with a design.

rubicon express has rear radius arms for the JK available. im not sure how long we need them from axle to frame rail.
http://www.bc4x4.com/inthenews/images/sema2006/day%203/RubiconExpressJK.jpg

also you might consider this direction since we have limited space ahead of the rear axle. as long as you want to use a truss. i do not know the benefits of the third link behind the axle since im new to this hobby. you can see that it doesnt weld to the axle tube or pumpkin.
http://www.bc4x4.com/inthenews/images/sema2006/day%203/RanchoJK.jpg

another question that might sound dumb. i dont think i have some across a street-legal vehicle that uses coil-overs. anyone know if this application street-legal? it seems to be a easier fab job.

I've seen pics of that Rancho triangulated rear jeep set-up before. I'm certainly no whiz at suspension geometry, but I would think that having the "wishbone" so-to-speak behind the axle like that would severely limit droop.

Using already manufactured parts certainly makes sense. Unfortunately, I just think it would complicate matters on this build. If I went with components from that RE JK long arm kit I would essentially have to replicate the JK link brackets on my axle, and i think it would cause me to have to move my coils further inboard then I would like. I also want more flexibility with the length of my lower arm. That RE stuff is nice, but I bet homebrew arms will be cheaper. I'm hoping to build the arms beefy enough that the only thing I'll ever have to replace is the internals on the Ballistic Joints.

Gratz, well i guess i'll be the test dummy. I'm 3 linking it & will see if it wokes or not.

A 3 link would be sweet, and I'm assuming it would be quite a bit more flexible than a long-arm setup once it's dialed in. Sounds like you'll be cutting into things before I do. Can't wait to see it!

You know Greg is working on a 3 Link with a track bar, right?

You know Greg is working on a 3 Link with a track bar, right?

I spoke with Greg last week he said that project is sometime off still (6 months earliest), if it does ever happen, it is a complicated undertaking...it's one thing to draw out the geometry on paper and quite another to successfully build and test it then get it to market. Greg is currently focused on a 6" drop bracket lift, and the way it was described to me it sure sounds friggin interesting.

i see how the wishbone will not drop as well as radius arms.

i can wait for greg to come up with a product. his drop bracket should accommodate the M205?

That little linkage behind the axle is no more then a fancy swaybar, those joints only allow for a certain degree of flex before binding and since it's connected to the truss and the truss is equal on both sides of the pumpkin it should apply equal force and have the same amount of travel on both sides acting just like a swaybar... at least that's my theory.

Greg is currently focused on a 6" drop bracket lift, and the way it was described to me it sure sounds friggin interesting.

What details did he divulge about his upcoming lift?

What details did he divulge about his upcoming lift?

The drop bracket will be for a 6" suspension lift, to be utilized with extended shocks and rear suspension components (not included), designed similar in style to the 6" Fabtech bracket in that it will be arched and tapering upwards narrower in the center allowing more clearance and minimizing obstruction, only it will be fabricated stouter. The kit will include a heavy duty skid plate. The spindles will be fabricated, and will not be cast.

And stronger than the fabricated CST spindles as well.

And stronger than the fabricated CST spindles as well.

U be corrrrrrrrrrrect, thanks for the clarification ;)
Availability for the PRG Products 6" suspension kit may be as soon as 8 weeks, however I would bank on more like 12+ weeks due to his upcomming move and relocation from the LA area up to Northern CA (15 minutes from the Rubicon).

So he is moving up north.....sucks for me.

...another question that might sound dumb. i dont think i have some across a street-legal vehicle that uses coil-overs. anyone know if this application street-legal? it seems to be a easier fab job.

They exist but it's somewhat of a rare sight. I have coil-overs on the front axle but the rear is leaf sprung. The expense and labor to convert a rear leaf sprung rig to link setup with coil-overs keeps the sightings of such vehicles low.

With that said, a thoughtfully designed SOA rear with good leafs, poly bushings and perhaps Alcan's orbital eyes will perform nearly as well as rear linkage for a fraction of the cost.

With that said, a thoughtfully designed SOA rear with good leafs, poly bushings and perhaps Alcan's orbital eyes will perform nearly as well as rear linkage for a fraction of the cost.

I'm not going to argue the performance capability of SOA with well set-up leafs, but I will argue the part about them being a "fraction of the cost" of a linked set-up.

New spring packs from Alcan with Orbit-Eyes, shackles and shipping is going to run around $800 for most, I'm guessing (if not more). I would bet that the total for my coil springs, brackets, joints and DOM is right around $800 once I get everything in. I'll probably have to drop $400-500 at the fab shop. Since Boondox can weld, I bet he comes in at right around the same price.

Now if you wanted to ditch the Orbit Eyes you would save some $...

Orbit eyes are a waste of money IMO, all I see that thing being is a glorified johnny joint. With a little ingenuity you can have a set of orbit shackles for under 75$ (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/263quot-Heavy-Duty-Ballistic-Joint_p_1226.html). Coilover's will always be superior in my eyes, they have a better ride because of dual rate springs, are adjustable, look badass, can be rebuilt, in the end after everythings built; coiled SAS will have more bind free flex than leaves will ever have. But... like 8th man said, leafsprings are an easy quick and cheap way to affectively get a solid axle under your rig and they have a lot less room for failure as there are minimal mounting points. But I have to argue with you 8th about the poly bushings, poly has stiffer properties and a lot less give than rubber so if your aiming for flex go with rubber bushings. The advantage to running poly bushings is that they are UV resistant and definitely lasts a lot longer but the only reason they are becoming so popular is because poly is CHEAP to make compared to rubber.

Orbit eyes are a waste of money IMO, all I see that thing being is a glorified johnny joint. With a little ingenuity you can have a set of orbit shackles for under 75$ (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/263quot-Heavy-Duty-Ballistic-Joint_p_1226.html). Coilover's will always be superior in my eyes, they have a better ride because of dual rate springs, are adjustable, look badass, can be rebuilt, in the end after everythings built; coiled SAS will have more bind free flex than leaves will ever have. But... like 8th man said, leafsprings are an easy quick and cheap way to affectively get a solid axle under your rig and they have a lot less room for failure as there are minimal mounting points. But I have to argue with you 8th about the poly bushings, poly has stiffer properties and a lot less give than rubber so if your aiming for flex go with rubber bushings. The advantage to running poly bushings is that they are UV resistant and definitely lasts a lot longer but the only reason they are becoming so popular is because poly is CHEAP to make compared to rubber.

Redesigned a while back:

http://www.alcanspring.com/orbiteye%20003a.jpg

http://www.alcanspring.com/orbit-eye.htm

I'm a big fan of coilovers, especially on front axle applications. If you've got the coin, some fabrication skills (and tools), facilities and the know how...go for it. On the poly vs. rubber matter, I'll give up a bit of flex for longevity and durability. But that's just me. :drink:

you could always run longer springs like i did with the 1st gen , the 63" chevy's
pick them up at a junkyard for $80 , there is a 1st gen X on ronin running these ,which is where i got the idea from
tons of flex with them
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd196/sexy6chick/Memorial%20Day%2009/P5257946.jpg


good luck with the conversion though cant wait to see how it turns out

can we fit 63" leafs in the rear? i dont think the frame rails line up evenly, so added boxing is needed. plus the rear is too close to the bumper.

just checked under the x. the frame is straight.

also, will coils have the weight capacity of leafs? in other words, will i still have the same load capacity?

Yeah there are a ton of different spring rates to choose from.

Congrats dude. I wish you the best on both endeavors.

I defiantly want to see how this turns out.

I defiantly want to see how this turns out.

It will take a while :)

I did get my frame link mount brackets ordered today...

Congrats buddy. How is the bracketry looking?

Redesigned a while back:

http://www.alcanspring.com/orbiteye%20003a.jpg

http://www.alcanspring.com/orbit-eye.htm


I agree with Steve that the Orbit Eyes are indeed a superior redesign, because they allow 16 degrees more pivot. The Ballistic Joints are rated as offering "30 degrees total misalignment with a 9/16" ball", while the Alcan Orbit Eyes have a bigger ball which "allow the spring to pivot in the frame hanger and/or shackle up to 46 degrees. The spring is not forced to twist as it follows the axle's up and down movement." The traditional leaf pack bushing connection is rigid, forcing the spring to twist almost immediately and limiting axle articulation. Orbit eyes allow a 46 degree pivot (articulation) at the shackle (and/or frame) before the spring even begins to twist. Of course this = additional articulation, free flex, and eliminates the standard poly bushing from being chewed up. I have not wheeled with them yet, but I have pretest flexed them and can tell that my rear flex capability has been upgrade; 18 days from now will be the true test.

Brackets are here. They're huge. I'm going to have to break out the grinder this weekend and attempt to clearance the rear brackets on the shrock sliders so that the ballistic link brackets can sit flush with the bottom of the frame rails without any interference. B-day is next week and I know my dad and fiance are probably going to be getting me some ballistic fab gift certificates. I'll probably use those to order up a couple of those 3" ultra-duty joints. Those things aren't cheap!

Your goin with 3" joints? They are sooo huge, way overkill for our trucks IMO. Nice to see some progress made.

Your goin with 3" joints? They are sooo huge, way overkill for our trucks IMO. Nice to see some progress made.

I'm only using the 3" joints on the frame side. Remember, this will be a long arm style 4 link, so these 2 joints will take more stress because the top links aren't also connected to the frame. In a normal 4 link setup some of that stress would be dispersed. You're right... probably still a little overkill but I'll take the extra peace of mind.

I vote for overkill. I'd rather go overboard on something than "just enough."
Posted via Mobile Device

I vote for overkill. I'd rather go overboard on something than "just enough."

X2 OVERKILL!!!
:whax:

Spent about 40 mins today with a grinder clearancing the rear slider brackets so that the frame brackets can actually sit flush with the bottom of the frame rails. I'm hoping to have the frame brackets welded up here week after next.

I think Ballistic is having a 15% labor day weekend sale. Hmm... I should probably pick up something.

Ordered my 3" Ultra joints from Ballistic today for the frame links. Ballistic has 'em on sale for $10 off, and then an extra 15% on top of that for their Labor Day online sale. Brought 'em down from $59.99 to about $42 apiece. Can't beat that.

go Oregon go!!

Go, buddy go!

i wish i had a spare car so i can leave the X on jack stands.

i wish i had a spare car so i can leave the X on jack stands.

You and me both :)

where are you going to get the coil buckets? can you just remove them from a jeep and weld them onto the frame and axle tube?

atozfabrication.com might be a good place.

where are you going to get the coil buckets? can you just remove them from a jeep and weld them onto the frame and axle tube?

atozfabrication.com might be a good place.

All the brackets will come from Ballistic Fab. I've already got the frame side pieces. You can order coil spring perches in different axle tube sizes as well. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

no problem.

im still trying to pick this all up for my projects.

Ordered a few more odd and ends yesterday, small stuff like tube adapters, jam nuts. Have an appt at the fab shop on Friday to get the frame link brackets welded on. After that I may cut off the bumpstops just above the axle and prep the framerails for upper coil bracket placement.

is this just all trial and error? or have you trigged this all out? i have a front suspension excel program that might come in handy. it was from 4wheeloffroad i think.

I've found some calculators and guides on-line. I spent some time today crawling under the rig, taking measurements and trying to transpose those to graph paper. Things are made simpler (if you can use the word in this situation) by the fact that I don't have to worry about upper link frame mounting because the upper links will be mounted to the lower arms.

I'm trying to get the lower arm frame mounting point as close to the T/C case output as I reasonably can while still attempting to maintain a 5 to 10 degree angle (which is supposedly ideal) on the lower arms. That also means the lower arm will need to be mounted below the axle given my estimated post-conversion ride height. Right now my math is telling me that I can get 5 degrees without having to mount the lower arms any lower than I already have my rear shocks mounted.

I'm still trying to figure things out. Regardless of how good I think my math is, I'm sure there will still be some trial and error with this thing. Wish me luck :)

We're all pulling for your Oregon!! :notworthy:

are you trying to get the frame mounts inside the frame rails? would be a lot easier without that gas tank!

are you trying to get the frame mounts inside the frame rails? would be a lot easier without that gas tank!

Yeah.... no. That gas tank screws everything up. Oh well....

3" Ballistic joints are here. These things are huge...

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2107.jpg

:wow:

*blink*

wholly crap, those are pretty

im really thinking about doing this. i cant stand the vibration with the leafs and i hate how leafs flatten out over time. i was just under a LJ and i dont see why i cant replicate the same set up. i hate the fact that im waiting for ore and boondox to come up with a design first so that i can just copy it. i still have to build a front bumper and drive cross-country in april/may. im running out of time since all of the equipment and supplies will be left here in pa. sorry, just thinking out loud.

im really thinking about doing this. i cant stand the vibration with the leafs and i hate how leafs flatten out over time. i was just under a LJ and i dont see why i cant replicate the same set up. i hate the fact that im waiting for ore and boondox to come up with a design first so that i can just copy it. i still have to build a front bumper and drive cross-country in april/may. im running out of time since all of the equipment and supplies will be left here in pa. sorry, just thinking out loud.

I feel ya Dan! This project keeps floating in and out of my mind, gonna run it by my brother and see if it's something Mad Maxx and I could do.

OMG Oregon those are enormous!!

I feel ya Dan! This project keeps floating in and out of my mind, gonna run it by my brother and see if it's something Mad Maxx could do.

fixed :)

fixed :)

I think we all knew that one! Hey, someone has to take the pics.

Frame brackets get welded up and painted tomorrow. I should have a couple pics. I'll add them to my first post.

First post updated 9/18/09.

Thanks for posting pictures of this project. I personally enjoy following well thought out construction projects. Yours is certainly one the more ambitious projects for a 2nd gen X.

Jeff

You and me both :)

Wow man this is pretty serious. haha. Good work so far. So you are doing this whole project without a second car to get you around if something goes wrong. That takes courage.

sweet stuff dude

So you are doing this whole project without a second care to get you around if something goes wrong. That takes courage.

Yeah, this is still my DD. I'll be doing as much as I can to it without actually having to drop the leaf springs so that I can keep driving it around. I think that when the time comes to drop the springs and start welding the brackets on the axles I'm hoping it can be knocked out in 1 day at my fab shop.

I think I might actually get some DOM here in the next 3-4 weeks and start building the lower arms. With the frame mounts in place I can start to ballpark the length. I'll make them about 8-10 inches longer than I need 'em. Weld on the tube adapters at the frame end as well as my upper link brackets. Then my plan is to have those pieces powdercoated. On the last and final fab day when the axle is sitting under coils and everything is mocked up we can cut the unfinished end of the lowers to length, grind of a little of the powder and weld on the axle side tube adapter. Hit the fresh weld with paint and the lowers will be 99% powdercoated.

I'm also thinking that I might switch to poly bushings on the axle brackets, just because that seems to be the recommendation for street rigs (vibration dampening), and it will save me about a hundred bucks...

So you are doing this whole project without a second care to get you around if something goes wrong.

I'm pretty sure OregonX is not getting his rear end converted on a whim. He's making calculations on the geometry of his suspension and having components welded by a competent fabricated.

I'm pretty sure OregonX is not getting his rear end converted on a whim. He's making calculations on the geometry of his suspension and having components welded by a competent fabricated.

Yeah I know he isn't just winging it but with a project of this magnitude I would expect there to be some downtime. I hope everything works out tho. Looks like he has a pretty good handle on it.
(and did I really write care instead of car... wupps. I am going to go edit that)

Hey... thanks Jesse.

For those of you wondering "WTF is this guy doing? It's his daily driver!", I don't blame you. Like Jesse pointed out, the welds will be fine, they are being done by a very qualified fabricator. It's up to me to try and figure out the geometry, placement and spring stuff.

It looks like I should be able to road test this thing without torching the frame spring hangers. The shackles hangers aren't going anywhere. So... worst case scenario if it turns into a total train wreck I can throw the leaf springs back on (after torching off the axle links and coil bucket and replacing the spring perches). It would suck BIG TIME but it's a possibility.

but with a project of this magnitude I would expect there to be some downtime.

That's a big "affirmative" on down time. One of the next steps in this project will be to fab new upper shock mounts and move the passenger side shock to the rear of the axle. That alone could take another month or two.

I'm pretty sure Boondox will finish his 3-link before I get this done. I'm hoping I'll be able to learn something from his efforts, at least as far as coil and trac-bar placement. Obviously he's already proven he can pull this sort of stuff off :)

I'm still not sure about the coils yet. If u look on the inside of the drivers side frame rail.
You will see alot of electrical and gas line right there. Your going to have to reroute them some where to weld your brackets on. I may stick with leafs, i just don't know at the moment. Give me a few hours i may change my mind again and just make a hovercraft X!

If your wondering about the track bar. I would go with the offset lower tracbar link and the adjustable upper tracbar link.

I'm still not sure about the coils yet. If u look on the inside of the drivers side frame rail. You will see alot of electrical and gas line right there. Your going to have to reroute them some where to weld your brackets on.

Yeah... I've seen those and I should still be ok with what I've got planned. It would be a hell of a lot easier if those fuel lines weren't there, though.

I may stick with leafs, i just don't know at the moment. Give me a few hours i may change my mind again and just make a hovercraft X!

C'mon.... you know you want to build the first 3-link...!

If your wondering about the track bar. I would go with the offset lower tracbar link and the adjustable upper tracbar link.

That's my plan right now. Haven't ordered those brackets yet but they're on the list.

1st post updated today. Nothing too big...

Pretty cool project!
Glad somebody has the cajones to try it out.
Then everybody benefits from others success and new ideas are born.

Patiently watching.....
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Ok I might have missed the explanation, but how come you choose 3-link vs. 4-link?

Absolutely not making a criticism, just curious as to your line to thinking.

There's not enough room for a triangulated 4 link. The only option is 2 lower bars with solid adjustable camber and a trac bar. Unless you plan on moving the gas tank and other things. I've seen boondoxs front end totaly flexed and I would say a tri4 would just get a little more flex. Oregonx is pretty much doin the same set up but for the rear.
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Ok I might have missed the explanation, but how come you choose 3-link vs. 4-link?

Absolutely not making a criticism, just curious as to your line to thinking.

I'm not doing a 3-link. Boondox was talking about it...

He is doing a radius arm setup =P

So something like this??
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa223/jdz7195/radius-arm-1.jpg

Yes... pretty close.

one thing to watch out for is the driveshaft rubbing against the gas tank skid , ive probably got the most flex on a 2nd gen frontier , when fully stuffed on pass side and drooped on drivers the driveshaft rubs on the gas tank skid

not sure if it will be the same on the X

one thing to watch out for is the driveshaft rubbing against the gas tank skid , ive probably got the most flex on a 2nd gen frontier , when fully stuffed on pass side and drooped on drivers the driveshaft rubs on the gas tank skid

not sure if it will be the same on the X

I while ago I was kicking around the idea of going with johnny-joint style shackle hangers and custom shackles. The proximity of the driveshaft to the tank was what kept me from doing it, because I couldn't really calculate how much lateral axle movement I would get. I think I raised the question over on Ronin and you chimed in.

My plan is to mount the trac-bar frame bracket on the passenger side. So if my thinking is right (?), when the entire axle starts to droop out it will actually pull away from the gas tank slightly. My shocks won't be set up for a lot of up-travel, so I don't think compression will move the axle too much. If the passenger side is stuffed and the driver side is drooping (I'm trying to picture it in my head) the axle will rotate on the axle end trac-bar mount and the pinion will move slightly closer to the tank, but I would think it would allow slightly less lateral movement than the leaf springs bushings would? But hopefully trac-bar placement would also play into that...

I've had some unexpected bills/expenses pop up over the last month or so. Haven't been able to order many parts.

I had to return one of the 3" joints to Ballistic because the taper at the end of the threads was screwed up enough that you couldn't thread the tube adapter on it. Ballistic was very helpful about sending me an immediate replacement part and a return label for the defective joint.

I did drop $33 on grade 8 hardware (3/4" hex cap zinc coated, big @ss bolts!) for the 3" joints.

I've also been toying with the idea of changing my original plans and going with Jeep JK rear springs, using these for the upper mounts;

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=JKS-2570

It's going to add quite a bit to the cost of this project, but it would be pretty cool. I'm still trying to find some measurements on the JK springs to see what it would take...

what are your plans for the shocks? are you relocating them?

what are your plans for the shocks? are you relocating them?

Passenger side shock is going to the back of the axle. Upper mounts for both will be tabs located on the tubular crossmember that sits over the axle (well... close to it).

Ballistic is having a 10% of brackets Halloween sale. Ordered my lower axle links and panhard brackets. After continued research I think the JK springs will be the way to go. As expensive as those ACOS adjustable mounts are, they will allow me to adjust ride height and will serve as my bumpstop, which is something I hadn't quite figured out. Plan to schedule an appointment in about 3-4 weeks to take care of the shock mount relocation.

why not integrate the lower shock mount and lower link together? and put both shocks behind the axle tube.

http://image.off-roadweb.com/f/9380140+w750+st0/0708or_12_z+hemi_v8_jk_wranglers+reservoir_shocks. jpg

That's not a bad idea... I think I would just be creating more work for myself. Both shocks will go behind the rear axle the way I have it planned. I'm going to keep my driver side rear lower shock mount right where it is. I'm already running Total Chaos weld-on shock mounts. I bought an extra one and I just need to torch off the passenger side and weld the new one behind the axle.

I do like that design though. Saves space with less brackets on the axle tube.

First post updated today. Nothing much but a little progress.

im watching this like a hawk

Thanks again Shawn for doing the legwork on this whole setup. If this works out, I'll end up doing this before gearing/front locker.

Cant believe i missed this. Cant wait to see the results!

Well, the plot thickens.

I had figured out a way to mount spring pads and upper link tabs on the top of the axle without having to take up too much space (and relocating brake line brackets). The only thing that kept nagging me is that the upper link tabs would not have been very high up on the axle. Even with placing the lower links directly under the axle I wouldn't be getting "optimal" vertical separation between the upper and lower axle links. I also assumed that axle wrap would have placed quite a bit of stress on the upper links, more so than if the upper link was mounted several inches above the top of the axle (benefitting from the leverage effect).

So, after crawling around underneath the X for about an hour with the tape measure, I think I've figured out a way to do it a different way. So... stay tuned for a 3 LINK with a panhard.

Get back under that damn thing and come up with a 4 link without a track bar!

Get back under that damn thing and come up with a 4 link without a track bar!

Yeah, I wish! I think we need to talk one of the ClubFrontier guys into that. They could ditch the gas tank and put a fuel cell in the bed. Where's Penski... he hasn't done anything to his wife's 2nd gen in a while :O

Yeah, I wish! I think we need to talk one of the ClubFrontier guys into that. They could ditch the gas tank and put a fuel cell in the bed. Where's Penski... he hasn't done anything to his wife's 2nd gen in a while :O

Im planning on a 4-link. Hopefully i can keep my stock gastank and just move it forward. So here's one of those clubfrontier guys...:blackeye:

Yeah, I wish! I think we need to talk one of the ClubFrontier guys into that. They could ditch the gas tank and put a fuel cell in the bed. Where's Penski... he hasn't done anything to his wife's 2nd gen in a while :O

haha , i might as well since i have no bed space anymore but ive got some awesome flex with greg's 10 leaf pack and 14" travel bilsteins ;)

^Thought you were making it streetable. Id much rather seeing you link the 1st gen IMO.

dude it was a joke , and the truck has always been streetable which why Natalie daily drives it

sorry for the thread jack Oregon

back on topic , have you figured out if your shocks are goin to limit your new travel from goin coils and link?

sorry for the thread jack Oregon

back on topic , have you figured out if your shocks are goin to limit your new travel from goin coils and link?

No worries.

Shocks is kind of where I'm torn. Right now I'm thinking 10" stroke, maybe some 2.5 SAW emulsions. I could also stuff a Bilstein 7100 "short body" 12" stroke that would have pretty much the same compression measurements. I'm wondering if a full 12" of droop won't push me into needing a new (longer) driveshaft. With a 3 link setup and the planned length of my control arms either of those shocks will likely be the limiting factor. I don't anticipate any binding. We'll see what happens...

U better hurry up! I'm 3/4 the way done!

U better hurry up! I'm 3/4 the way done!

You can weld. You'll beat me for sure :)

My upper axle link bracket was ordered from Poly Performance early last week and should be arriving tomorrow. I've got an appt at the fab shop on Fri morning to get that welded up and maybe start on some of the shock relocation stuff.

I've started measurements and design work for the crossmember that will serve as the frame mounting point for the upper link. What a PITA.

Whatever initial "budget" I had in mind for this project will be blown for sure. I've got to call up Ballistic and place an order for more tabs, some gussets and 4 more Ballistic Joints.

U should run these 2 brackets for ur upper link will save u laot of money! u just have to run a muffler at a angle.,

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Inner-frame-mount-40one-bracket41_p_1174.html

inside link at 0 degree and link if u run a 3 link

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Link-Tower_p_1398.html

I know u spent money on the radius link brackets but this will save money and complication


For shocks i'm running these tabs on the rear X member (that stock on the X) straight down to axle tabs

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/High-Clearance-Shock-Tabs_p_1645.html 1.5 OD

I know u spent money on the radius link brackets but this will save money and complication

Once I decided to go 3-link those radius link brackets became scrap, unfortunately. Maybe I'll save them in case I ever get a chance to SAS the front.

For shocks i'm running these tabs on the rear X member (that stock on the X) straight down to axle tabs

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/High-Clearance-Shock-Tabs_p_1645.html 1.5 OD

I've got a set of those tabs sitting in a box right now. Oddly enough, those seem to be one of the only tabs they sell for a 2" tubing. I may be going back with these, versus my idea of threaded shock "bungs" on the frame rail. Although the bungs on the rail would get me more height, they would also essentially be a single shear shock mount, which I'm not too big on the more I think about it.

Rear axle truss built today! Will get pics posted tomorrow after I get some paint on it.

Updated 12/5/09. Pic of axle truss posted.

Looks good, so have u go the coils yet. I'm still undecided on the coils maybe ZJ, JK, or FJ.
Alot of good ebay slls on them. My is getting pushed back to the first of Jan. I got alot of parts to order.
Since i'm going the 4 link route. I can do it without removing the gas tank. I spent many hours yesterday
at looking at differant options. Hope your goes swap goes easy. keep us updated.

Looks good, so have u go the coils yet. I'm still undecided on the coils maybe ZJ, JK, or FJ.


Not yet. Never looked into the FJ coils, but seems like they would be a viable route. I signed up as a user on a JK forum. Trying to get a set of low mileage take-offs from somebody who installs a lift kit shortly after purchasing theirs. I'm going with OEM height rears since mine will be mounted directly under the frame rails, and not inside.

Mine are mounted directly under the frame too. I'm just running 37's though.

Nice truss man. That looks sharp and the pics came out good IMO

I never predicted how much this project would change on me, althought it's really my fault :)

After taking some measurements I've decided there's no way I can fit my spare tire under there with a trac bar installed. Maybe if I hadn't decided to go with a truss and 3 link I could have run the trac bar over the center of the axle. So, I've basically created another project for myself. Maybe it's time to get some bigger tires anyway...

Exactly, time for some 33 and a halfs!

Looking good bud.

The undercarriage area is a poor place to store a spare for an off-road vehicle anyway. Moving it is a very wise decision.
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Ordered a set of Bilstein 7100's (short body resi'd) for the rear today. Next few weeks are jam packed but I'm hoping to have my shock mounts re-done by the end of the month.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2161.jpg

I'm going to be trussing my M226 soon, but with 2" square tubing - a little more traditional. It will be welded to the axle. Hey Oregon you should weld your axle tubes where they meet the housing while your at it.
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Ordered some weld-on JK rear axle coil mounts from Rubicon Express today. Don't think they're on their website yet, but they were shown in their new ad in 4WD&SU.

My 7100 Bils were on mega back-order, but according to Poly Performance they finally shipped. Have an appt to have my shock mounts re-done next Friday.

First post updated. Finally some progress!

Hey lookin good! So why didn't you try tiangulating the shocks? I've considered movin the lower mounts to the bottom leaf spring mount plate and top mounts closer together up top. Could fit some pretty long shocks that way. The limiting factor then would be the leafs.
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Placed another order with Ballistic today. Going to be running 3/4" ball heims w/ 7/8" studs for the upper link. Misalignment spacers will bring the bolt size for the upper down to 5/8". Which means 3/4" bolts for the lowers and 5/8" for the upper arm. Thinking about aluminum links too.

Have an appt at the fab shop on Friday the 26th. This is where it starts to get interesting, as we'll be building the sub-frame for the frame side upper link mount. Yikes!!

First post updated today with more photos...

Got a little more work done today. Upper link setup is done! Just gotta paint the upper arm tomorrow. Got the upper coil buckets built (but not yet welded to the frame rails). Will be using small poly spacers and Currie Enterprise upper coil spring retainers.

Maybe I'll try to get a pic or two posted tomorrow...

Think you'll be done by GONE? I really want to see this thing!

maybe i asked this before but are you concerned about load capacity?

Think you'll be done by GONE? I really want to see this thing!

My goal is to have it done a few weeks before GONE so I can test it out a little bit before I hit the road. I really don't want my trial run to be Kane Creek.

maybe i asked this before but are you concerned about load capacity?

Yes, but given that this really hasn't been done before on a 2nd gen I don't have a lot to draw from as far as appropriate spring rates. If these stock 4 door JK coils prove to be too soft I'll have to switch them out for stiffer Old Man Emu JK coils.

This might be a dumb idea but what about those inflatable bags that fit inside the coil? My father inlaw uses one for his drag car to preload the rearend. You could have light flexy coils for wheelin and for onroad fill up the bags to stiffen it up.
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Added a pic today of the upper link. Check it out.

Pretty cool man.

Pretty cool man.
No disrespect, but you pick now to be understated. This makes all the skid plates and sliders and bumpers and roof racks and Alcans and Timbrens and .... seem like BS. This little project lifts the X into the bigs.

Or is it just me.
Patrick

subscribed!!

No disrespect, but you pick now to be understated. This makes all the skid plates and sliders and bumpers and roof racks and Alcans and Timbrens and .... seem like BS. This little project lifts the X into the bigs.

Or is it just me.
Patrick

I don't think he's plannin on runnin monster tires he's just tryin to get awesome articulation.
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Any plans for bump stops and/or limiting straps yet?

Pretty cool man.

No disrespect, but you pick now to be understated. This makes all the skid plates and sliders and bumpers and roof racks and Alcans and Timbrens and .... seem like BS. This little project lifts the X into the bigs.
Or is it just me.
Patrick

I don't think he's plannin on runnin monster tires he's just tryin to get awesome articulation.
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Just my poor communication skills at issue. I've always disliked IFS with rear leaf springs, in that if your going IFS, then why not go all the way, and get a linked rear with coilovers. Nissan didn't do it, because it cost too much for performance that soccer moms will never use.

But, I ain't a soccer mom.
Patrick

OREGON and i know each other. He doesn't need me blowing smoke up his ass. He knows im impressed without me sucking him off in some long drawn out reply.

I appreciate the compliments from everybody. I wouldn't go so far as to describe this project as "the bigs" (it ain't a DIY SAS), but I appreciate the enthusiasm, Patrick.

I think that my initial estimates of weight savings over a leaf set-up have gone out the window. Also, my initial budget was quite a bit off too. In the end it will only articulate slightly better than my old leaf setup. Most of that is due to the limited room available to mount a shock. Maybe if you were running a BL and you could mount the upper shock mount closer to the top of the frame rail you could get a 12" shock in there that wouldn't limit your uptravel too much.

The adjustability of the link setup will be very cool in my mind, and it will be very easy to add lift in the future if I end up going SAS or something and need the extra inches.

Any plans for bump stops and/or limiting straps yet?

Haven't ruled out limit straps yet. I was initially thinking air bumps but trying to find space on the axle for bump pads is only going to make things more difficult and stretch this project out (I need it done before Moab). I may end up trying to mount some Timbrens within the coil spring/upper coil bucket assembly. I need to get that plotted out before the upper coil buckets get welded to the frame rails.

I've heard good things about the prothane coil insert type bump stops. Here's a picture

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/154_1003_jeep_cherokee_bds_long_arm_lift_kit/photo_08.html

I'd worry without something if you get a lot of travel out of it your tire will smash into the frame but I guess you'll be able to test that.

Heading to the fab shop in a few minutes. Will post some pics later this afternoon.

damn the anticipation!

it's 0110 on my watch. where are these pictures? :blob4:

Hey bud, did you ever think about just getting a new gas tank and mounting it where the spare used to be?
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or maybe even just relocating the stock tank to where the spare used to be , re-locating the tank is pretty easy
well on the 1st gen it was :)

Hey bud, did you ever think about just getting a new gas tank and mounting it where the spare used to be?
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That's actually a pretty cool idea. Would be a viable way to pull of a triangulated 4-link. I can't imagine the fab work involved with that.

Added a couple pics to the 1st post.

I remember my old cherokee had its gas tank there.
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Hey bud, did you ever think about just getting a new gas tank and mounting it where the spare used to be?
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funny...Dan (matrix) and I were talking about this exact thing last week.

Get it done John. I was thinking a more flat tank like the jeep had. Im not sure you can tuck the stock tank in that spot and it not stick down under the protection of the bumper.

Maybe a stock Cherokee tank would be about the right size.

Junk yard!

coming together nicely! go with what set up you have now. youre sooo close.

33-5/8 in. L x 20-3/4 in. W x 13 in. H for the cherokee tank just in case. will it fit between the bumper and round cross member? you might have to move your reservoirs though.

great job again and yes others will follow this build.

-dan

I've heard good things about the prothane coil insert type bump stops. Here's a picture

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/154_1003_jeep_cherokee_bds_long_arm_lift_kit/photo_08.html

I'd worry without something if you get a lot of travel out of it your tire will smash into the frame but I guess you'll be able to test that.

Thanks for the heads up on these, X-earth. Trying to mount air bumps utilizing what remaining space I have on the axle may be nightmare.

I ordered a set of these Prothane inserts from Jegs earlier this morning...

Got the lowers done and painted today...

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j201/eddygris/IMG_2327.jpg

They look purty!!!

So what all is left? Just lower axle mounts and axle spring perches?

So what all is left? Just lower axle mounts and axle spring perches?

Yup. I was hoping to have it done tomorrow, but I'm waiting on bushings from Ballistic!!

freaking sweet build

Update w/ pics. Check first post.

It's DONE.

I've only got about 5 hours to get some sleep before I hit the road and start the trek to Moab. Hopefully I'll get some pictures posted from the trail :)

More details to come...

Talk about trial by fire....
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Talk about trial by fire....
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No $h*t. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

Sweet! Can't wait to see some trail pics!

Your vision, creativity, and follow through, put you and your X, in a league of your own. You should start a design company (a.k.a tax write-off). Then you could bring much good to we, the unwashed and needy.

Congratulations on all your designs.

Your vision, creativity, and follow through, put you and your X, in a league of your own. You should start a design company (a.k.a tax write-off). Then you could bring much good to we, the unwashed and needy.

Congratulations on all your designs.

X effen 2

Im so stoked to actually see this finished and in person!!

Update added today with a little more info on how things are going. Didn't want to keep cluttering up the GONE pic thread with suspension nonsense.

Talk about trial by fire....
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Definitely! It takes some gonads and confidence to finish a project that involved and then instantly (within hours!) hop on the highway, drive 1000 miles and put it through the grinder in Moab! You sir are a braver man than I. :notworthy:

nice build

Looks awesome. Im glad your issues are small. Fins and things is an awesome trail, but i dont think you will have to worry about a ton of twisting on that one. Just alot of up and down.

Back from Moab. 1st post updated with another pic and some afterthoughts.

First time on the road, and yet, you had so few issues. Great design, planning and execution.
Keep us posted on your parts and tuning adjustments.

Because of your wonderful rear suspension the X is in a whole new league. The engine is willing and able, so it seems like the rear axle is the weak link now. Funny how one thing necessitates the next, and that perpetual momentum can only be stopped by an empty bank account.

Once again, great work.
Patrick

1st post updated again with some pics.

badass dude. great work.

Sean, your insight and build precision is only matched by your friendly personality and passion for creating an extremely trail capable Xterra!

Sean, your insight and build precision is only matched by your friendly personality and passion for creating an extremely trail capable Xterra!

Mucho gracias, Stephen.

Small update on 9/18/10. Check out first post.

Sean - any picts of this flexed out ? Do you have an estimate of the difference in travel over the leafs?

Sean - any picts of this flexed out ? Do you have an estimate of the difference in travel over the leafs?

I could probably dig up a few from Moab with the old bumpstop set-up. Don't have anything new.

My last leaf set-up before I went to coils was 2" lift Alcans, PRG shackles set at the max setting, OEM upper shock mounts and aftermarket lower shock brackets that were set pretty close to factory as far as mounting. I was running a 5125 Bilstein, 9" stroke with an extended length of 24.35, and my springs would max out before I hit max extension on the shocks. That was probably a perfect set-up as far as not stressing out the shocks, but this 3-link will easily out droop my old springs. The spring rate on the coils is probably a bit softer than the leafs were, and in that sense when I'm driving off-road the rear end feels like it's much smoother in motion when articulating.

Moab Picts are unacceptable! We demand MAX FLEX PICTS! Stick a fork lift under that thing and let's see what you got! Please :-)
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but this 3-link will easily out droop my old springs. The spring rate on the coils is probably a bit softer than the leafs were, and in that sense when I'm driving off-road the rear end feels like it's much smoother in motion when articulating.

Hey thats cool. That being said now do you feel you can drive this X safely at 80 mph on the highway?

Hey thats cool. That being said now do you feel you can drive this X safely at 80 mph on the highway?

Isnt that how he got to/from Gone Moab? Or did he trailer?

Isnt that how he got to/from Gone Moab? Or did he trailer?

Well he might have gone 60 - Sean?

Hey thats cool. That being said now do you feel you can drive this X safely at 80 mph on the highway?

Once or twice a month I have to make a 130 mile round trip to Salem, which is pretty much all straight interstate from here. No issues with passing & lane changes at 80-85 MPH. I probably shouldn't be driving a lifted vehicle with no sway-bars any faster than that.

OZ... if you make it to GONE next year (and if you can drive a clutch) you can take it for a spin. It will probably feel like a low-rider compared to your rig :)

So how's the truck running?
Posted via Mobile Device

So how's the truck running?
Posted via Mobile Device

Dig the new screen name. Threw me off for a minute.

Gotta grind down the lower coil spring retainer plates a bit. They're a bit too large in diameter for the Teraflex springs and they were rubbing and causing some of my spring squeak.

Also... Can't seem to keep the axle end jam nuts tight for the life of me. I just had some new lower arms welded up with a fixed non-adjustable bushing at the axle end. Easy to do now that springs have settled and I can measure for my ride height. Frame end will still be adjustable. These are actually sitting on my floor as we speak. Need to take them to the powdercoater.

When I bolt the new arms up I plan to pull the springs (leaving links and shocks attached) so that I can raise and lower the axle through the complete suspension cycle and figure out how much tire I can stuff in the wheel wells with my current shocks and bumpstops. Need some new rubber before next May :)

1st post updated with some new crap.

Looks GREAT as always

badass!

holy wow! thats some serious stuff!

Awesome news/update ... what kind of travel numbers are you looking at now?

by far my favorite X on the site...

good job! this is very interesting.:icon_smile: