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Bonelo's X

12K views 55 replies 12 participants last post by  Bonelo 
#1 · (Edited)
Intro Comments: Bought the truck back in August 2015 with 53K. The weekend warrior is mainly build for overlanding.

Xterra's Nickname: X

Make: Nissan
Year: 2011
Model: Xterra
Trim: S 4x4
Color: Super Black

Sitting at 86k as of JUNE 23, 2017; 100k as of March 28, 2018
144641 as of Aug 21,2021

MODS

Suspension/Tires:
-BFG KO2 265/75/16 Tires (5/9/21)
-Falken wild peaks AT3w 285/75/16 (9/03/21)
-1.25” wheel spacers (precision european motorwerks(ebay)) (11/06/17)

FRONT
-Radflo 2.0 Extended Coilover w/650lbs (4/21/17)
-New Bolt to Fix Radflo Clunk (6/04/17)
-SPC UCA (4/21/17)
-Moog Cam Bolts (4/21/17) (5/31/21)
-PRG 1” spacer (4/21/17)
-PRG Extended end links (9/19/21)
-Powerstop brakes z36 (9/19/20) (7/10/21)
-replaced because of noise but wasnt it
-Powerstop calipers s3122a (7/16/21)
-Raybestos Rotors (7/2/21)
-R180 3.36 gear from 12’ pro 4x with 36k (5/31/21)(removed 8/21/21)
-m205 3 rib from 08 v8 pathy (8/21/21)
-v8 pathy cv axles from rockauto N18354 (8/21/21)

REAR
-PRG Dual AAL (9/10/15)
-Bilstein Rear Shock 5125 (11/26/18)
-PRG adjustable Shackle (11/26/18)
-Titan rear brake line (11/26/18)
-Raybestos rear brakes (6/16/17)
-Raybestos rear rotors (6/16/17)
-Timbren rear bump stop (6/12/21)
-m226 with elocker from 09’ off road (5/16/21)
-PRG U flip bolt (5/16/21)

Powertrain/Under The Hood:
-Gas Strut Hood Mod
-Xentec HID Kit (removed)
-Auxito 9007 LED headlight (6/27/21)
-Oil Catch Can (6/02/17)
-Rear Diff Breather Mod
-K&N Drop-in Filter (6/02/17)
-Odyssey 35-PC1400T (2/16/18)
-XTP IMS (7/30/19)
-yukon gears 4.11 (9/22/21)

Exterior:
-P&P Full Skids (2/20/16)
-P&P Sliders lvl2 (11/2/15)
-Custom DepHep Roof Basket (6/23/17)
-No Spill System
-Curt Hitch Receiver (removed 6/7/20)
-Locking Wet Box Handle
-16” Rear Wiper and Spring Mod
-Stubby Antenna(broke off 9/9/17)
-ARB Awning 2000
-Airflow Snorkel (4/03/18)
-Offroad Gorilla light bar mount (9/28/18)
-Roxterra rear bumper (6/08/20)
-Wam hidden winch (2/16/18)

Lighting:
-(2) 4” 120W spot light
- 42” LED light bar

Interior:
-2 x 17" Craftsman Storage Under Seat
-Interior LED Lights
-Pioneer AVH-X2700BS
-Pioneer ND-BCD6 Universal Rear Back-up Cam
-Bracketron MVM4505 Multi Vechicle Mounting
-Hidden Garage Opener
-Heavy Duty D-ring Cargo
-Xterra OEM Frist Aid Kit
-Cockpit Holster
-Compass Mirror
-icom 2730A dual band ham radio (11/31/20)

Recovery Gear:
-ARB 30ft Snatch Strap
-Rugged Ridge 3/4 D-ring (2)
-TRED PRO
-Tuff Stuff Receiver Hitch
-Smittybilt XRC-9.5 Gen2 Winch with Synthetic Line (2/16/18)
-Smittybilt A.W.S
-TGL 3" 8' tree saver 30,000lbs
-Hi Lift jack
-Scepter MFC 5gallon x2
-HF shovel
-ARB shackle 9000


Removed:
-Rear Sway Bar
-Mud Flaps
-Lobo Rack
-Rear Cargo Rack(got abuse)
-Cb setup
-Midland 1001LWX CB
-Firestix FS3B
-Firestik K4
-Nagoya RB-400

Future Mod:
-Hidden Winch (done)
-Front tube bumper
-Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier
-Gobi Ladder

PHOTOS

Day I tied the Knot.




And as it sits now. (2/17/18)








10/27/18





 
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#9 ·
I was just curious about my alignment. I read threw some of the threads and didnt want to resurrect any old threads. But took my x back to tire plus (a diff location then the first) to get another alignment done. Hoping that they would be able to fix my toe. But they didnt. I do have cam bolts and SPC Uca and they still couldlnt set it straight? Are they not adjusting the SPC? kinda funny how they noted that my lift kit will void the life time. When the first time i went to the first tire shop, they ask me why i needed an alignment and i told them that i did a 2" SL, they offer and told me about the lifetime alignment.







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#11 · (Edited)
Toe is adjusted last. They should be adjusting camber/caster with your cam bolts and SPC arms first, and then do the toe adjustment at the very end. The toe is adjusted using the tie rods and SPC arms/cam bolts should not affect the ability to tune in the toe at all.

In the future, I would try a different shop. Les Schwab has given me a good experience. Runs around $65 for alignment. I usually ask to see the tech when they are about to adjust my truck and make sure he knows that certain parts can be used to align. E.g. last time I went in and said "don't touch the cam bolts - I have those set where I want. See if you can align with just the SPC adjustments".
 
#12 ·
Toe is adjusted last. They should be adjusting camber/caster with your cam bolts and SPC arms first, and then do the toe adjustment at the very end. The toe is adjusted using the tie rods and SPC arms/cam bolts should not affect the ability to tune in the toe at all.

In the future, I would try a different shop. Les Schwab has given me a good experience. Runs around $65 for alignment. I usually ask to see the tech when they are about to adjust my truck and make sure he knows that certain parts can be used to align. E.g. last time I went in and said "don't touch the cam bolts - I have those set where I want. See if you can align with just the SPC adjustments".

This alignment looks OK to me though... does it drive weird or something?


Yeah i may have to just take it to a diff shop and maybe talk a bit about adjusting the SPC. If that makes any diff.
But no it drives fine. But just the ideal of the right toe not being straight and you can really see the difference looking at it up front too that bothers me. Knowing that the right front tires will wear differently.


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#13 · (Edited)
Your camber is WAY out. Did you grind the coil bucket so that the SPC ball joint can be pushed to the back of the slot? If not, do.... to make sure the boot doesn't tear.

With the cam bolts and the SPC's you should be able to get the camber at or seriously near zero..... Make sure they see the 150 ft lb torque spec.

Caster looks great, and toe should damn near dead on.

Go somewhere else.

Edit: thank god you took those hideous wheel off that poor thing.
 
#14 ·
you have a pic to share of how it looks like? i dont have a nice grinder, when doing the install i was only able to grind a tad bit only and thought that would do the job. but if you push yours all the way back then maybe thats what i need to do.
 
#15 ·
Beg, borrow or _____ ..... a grinder the 4 1/2" angle grinder type.

If you did the install then you know how to do it. Obviously you gotta take it apart. loosen the ball joint and move it back to the very back of the slot, and check where it looks like it will hit. Grind the lip of the bucket in a nice easy arch directly behind the ball joint, until it clears easily. Put it back together with ball joint at th back of the slot and go for another alignment.

Just make sure the knucklehead doing the alignment knows how to work the ball joint in all the ways it can be adjusted.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Bonelo's X *Re-grinding coil bucket*

So i ended up just buying a angle grinder from harbor freight. And started grinding already. I set the boot right in the middle of the slot and pull the UCA down to see where i need to grind.

This is where it sits now. When the UCA is pulled down. Is this enough space? Or i need to grind more?




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#19 · (Edited)
Bonelo's X *Re-grinding Coil Bucket*





-_-" i didnt push the ball joint all the way back. i read the instruction SPC provided and it says to set it in the middle. I grind it a little more so the boot had 5mm space to the bucket. and when i put the ball joint into the knuckle it sat fine. crossing fingers that this will get the alignment straight tomorrow. if not then i will just have to push it all the way back and grind it again early in the morning when it is nice and cool. probably lost 5lbs from sweating.

 
#20 ·
Mine was good in my test in the garage, but the boot was cut when I got alignment (they moved it closer). So yeah you basically want to get that joint as close as possible for your test just in case they align it that way.
 
#21 ·
I can tell you from having installed two sets of these, that you must push the BJ to the very back of the slot and then grind for clearance. You can do it now, OR, you can do it after they tear your boot doing a proper alignment.

You have a nice start, but you're not even half way there.
 
#22 ·
The ball joint is actually further away from the coil bucket. Idk why the pic i took yesterday seems like it was so close. But took it to the shop and got it done. And alignment are all green. Although they only made me a black and white copy.






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#23 ·
The ball joint is actually further away from the coil bucket. Idk why the pic i took yesterday seems like it was so close.
Because the current pic is with the truck at ride height. The BJ will get closer like yesterdays pic at full droop. As long as you're happy with the alignment and at full droop there is clearance between the coil bucket and the BJ boot, then go for it.

I assume you greased the ball joints, with a good 10 full pumps of grease.
 
#37 ·
Here's a couple interesting posts regarding the Odyssey. Basically, I wish I had read through both, prior to purchasing mine. I have a charger inbound, so that adds another $110ish to my battery total. The SCCX thread talks about a very nice alternative that doesn't need a proprietary charger. Don't get me wrong, I love my Odyssey and it cranks the trunk instantly, but I wish I had a little more knowledge on it, prior to ordering.

http://www.thenewx.org/forum/12-electrical/248761-odyssey-wont-hold-charge.html
Battery advice - need help choosing between two
 
#38 ·
Here's a couple interesting posts regarding the Odyssey. Basically, I wish I had read through both, prior to purchasing mine. I have a charger inbound, so that adds another $110ish to my battery total. The SCCX thread talks about a very nice alternative that doesn't need a proprietary charger. Don't get me wrong, I love my Odyssey and it cranks the trunk instantly, but I wish I had a little more knowledge on it, prior to ordering.



http://www.thenewx.org/forum/12-electrical/248761-odyssey-wont-hold-charge.html

Battery advice - need help choosing between two


Shrugs* only if i saw this as well. Going to see if i can return it


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